[AT] Synthetic Oil

[Jason]

Maybe if the seals were leather I'd be concerned about synthetic but it was
made in last 40 years it should be fine.

On Sun, Nov 13, 2016, 10:04 AM Jason <dejoodster at gmail.com> wrote:

> Not much need for zinc in a small engine because the valve spring tension
> is so low.
>
> On Sun, Nov 13, 2016, 7:38 AM Cecil Bearden <crbearden at copper.net> wrote:
>
>> I had forgotten about the need for ZDDP in the small engines. The cam
>> followers are just flat metal.  I have a box of Lucas oil ZDDP
>> additive.  Will start using it.  I will note that I made the mistake of
>> mixing Lucas break in oil additive in my 2 cycle gas/oil mix once.   It
>> was one of those things you do when in a hurry and not using glasses to
>> read the label.   Both bottles were the same design just thew writing
>> was different.   The engine ran about 10 minutes then died.  No real
>> harm done, it just shorted the spark plug from the deposits on the
>> electrode.   The engine was on one of those 2 cycle pumps that Northern
>> Hyd sells.  Still runs just fine..
>>
>> Cecil in oKla
>>
>>
>> On 11/13/2016 6:38 AM, Stephen Offiler wrote:
>> > I run oils labeled "Motorcycle Oil" in all of my small gasoline engines.
>> > These oils are the older SF/SG service rating, which has signficantly
>> more
>> > ZDDP additive than the most modern oils (service rating SN).  ZDDP is an
>> > extreme-pressure sliding-friction additive that was removed because it
>> > clogs catalytic converters.  There are certain motorcycles, for example
>> BMW
>> > boxer twins, that require SF/SG and they will wear cam lobes more
>> rapidly
>> > if modern oil is used.  Typically found in 10-30, 10-40, and 20-50.  I
>> use
>> > 10-40 in everything but if it gets really cold the 10-30 would be a
>> better
>> > choice.  As for synthetic, probably no reason for it.  Synthetic flows
>> > better at extremely cold temperatures (like for example -10F)  and
>> resists
>> > breakdown at extremely hot temperatures (like for example in small
>> > turbocharged engines).
>> >
>> > SO
>> >
>> >
>> > On Sun, Nov 13, 2016 at 5:40 AM, Steve W. <swilliams268 at frontier.com>
>> wrote:
>> >
>> >> Dick Day wrote:
>> >>> Dave, as you can tell, I know nothing about motor oils.  The little
>> bit
>> >>> that I've read and heard, leads me to believe that synthetic oil is
>> >> better
>> >>> for the engines.  I am currently using synthetic in the
>> Husqvarna/Briggs
>> >>> because the dealer I ordered it from suggested that when I did the
>> 5-hour
>> >>> oil change that I replace it with synthetic.
>> >>>
>> >>> Is there a reason to not use it?
>> >>>
>> >>> Thanks
>> >> If you do regular oil changes conventional oils are fine. I run
>> >> conventional 10W-30 in most of the small engines, I run 15w-40 in the
>> >> diesel.
>> >>
>> >> I run synthetic in both generators because it seems to work better when
>> >> very cold.
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> --
>> >> Steve W.
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