[AT] Got some raking to do

Tue Nov 8 05:56:59 PST 2016

Scott , I pretty much agree with what Cecil says and really agree with Dave
and although I am NOT by a long shot a welder , I have found over the years
that in order to make a GOOD weld with flux core , the metal  HAS to be
CLEAN and you also need the proper voltage & amps to the machine . If your
machine will weld with BOTH gas or flux core , then you need to reverse the
polarity of the machine in order to weld with flux core . By doing that and
really cleaning the metal , you will be surprised at what you can actually
do to make it be like a professional weld . my experiences only .

On Mon, Nov 7, 2016 at 9:25 PM, Dave <rotigel at me.com> wrote:

> A GOOD WELD is one that holds up when a load is put on it! I would say
> that you did a GOOD JOB!
>         Dave
>
> > On Nov 7, 2016, at 8:48 PM, Scott Williams <swillia5 at rochester.rr.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > My new radiator came in, and the MF135 is back in business, whew.  Feels
> so helpless to have the season getting away from me with the equipment laid
> up.  I can't imagine having a crop to bring in, etc.
> >
> > I welded up that York rake with my flux-core welder, on a long extension
> cord.  Wow, was that weld an embarrassment! They say a great weld looks
> like a stack of dimes, this job looks like a stack of bird crap.  I hooked
> it up and raked the soil before we spread seed, though, and it held just
> fine, so at least it got the job done.  Next step will be "a grinder and
> paint makes me the welder I ain't."
> >
> > At some point I need to address the electrics, too, I need to see if
> there are any wires for the lights that I can use, or if I need to start
> from scratch.  All I'm sure about is that the light switch on the dash has
> no wires hooked to it.  They may be in there somewhere, though.  I've got
> some of those 27w round-case 9-LED lamps to mount on there when I get wires
> figured out.
> >
> > Scott in Penfield NY
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com [mailto:at-bounces at lists.
> antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of Scott Williams
> > Sent: Tuesday, October 18, 2016 4:45 PM
> > To: 'Antique tractor email discussion group' <
> at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> > Subject: Re: [AT] Got some raking to do
> >
> > I'm quite surprised at how brittle the copper is on these tubes, as I
> try to break out cooling fins, the tubes are splitting open, so I don't
> feel that "folding over" the end of a cut tube would work.  I've ordered a
> new one.  Now to do some welding.  With a long extension cord.  Wish me
> luck.
> >
> > Scott
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com [mailto:at-bounces at lists.
> antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of charlie hill
> > Sent: Tuesday, October 18, 2016 12:52 PM
> > To: Antique tractor email discussion group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com
> >
> > Subject: Re: [AT] Got some raking to do
> >
> > If you don't want to replace the radiator right away just break out the
> cooling fins around the leaking tubes and crimp the tubes off.  Then you
> can solder them shut.
> > It won't have much effect on the cooling unless you are working the
> tractor very hard.
> > Bend the end of the tube over and crimp it shut.  Then solder.  It won't
> look pretty but it's been done many times by others.
> >
> > Tractor Supply might just have those brass nuts you need.  If not they
> can be ordered online.
> > I wouldn’t worry much about it.  Just put Steel nuts on it.  Better yet
> use stainless steel studs and nuts and put never seize on the threads both
> in the manifold and on the nut end.
> > My experience with brass nuts is that they come loose.
> >
> > Charlie
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Scott Williams
> > Sent: Monday, October 17, 2016 11:14 PM
> > To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
> > Subject: [AT] Got some raking to do
> >
> > We wanted to raise the level of the soil in front of our new house,
> which was built quite tall because we're reusing the septic tank from the
> burned house, and this house is a little downhill from that tank.  Also,
> the ground has always been a mess because it's really an old farm dumpsite,
> with multiple barns bulldozed under over the years, lots of concrete and
> asphalt, etc., and the surface had a lot of gravel and plaster, really not
> the best soil.  Anyway, we had about 20 truckloads of fill dropped off by
> the town
> > (free) and paid the neighbor kid, who works in excavation, to move the
> soil and level it with a rented Bobcat track loader.  There were some rocks
> and concrete in the fill (even some big ones) which he separated out when
> he could, and he compacted it pretty well with that loader.  Overall it was
> pretty good soil, and we should be able to seed it without paying for
> topsoil, if we can get it raked up to accept seed.  Plus raking it will
> help us find any other rocks we should pull out before seeding.  I have a
> York rake, but it has a broken weld on it.  Need to weld that up with flux
> core wire, and also need to get my MF135 working.  I tried to patch the
> leak in the radiator with JB Weld, but the leak went farther than I
> thought, so as soon as I refilled, it was leaking like crazy.  Now I'll try
> once more with epoxy, and if it fails again, I'll order a replacement.
> They're about $137, not terrible. but they're talking about charging us a
> LOT to hook the gas line up to the new house, so money is getting really
> tight as this house project drags on.
> >
> >
> >
> > I also have a broken exhaust manifold, and got a new replacement with
> gaskets, but didn't get any studs/nuts with that.  Will an auto parts store
> like AutoZone or Advance Auto have the brass nuts for the studs?  I haven't
> been by one to ask, just hoping that's the case.  It runs with the broken
> manifold, but chokes me out with black smoke if it gets bogged down, and is
> quite loud.  Actually, I believe there was a big chunk missing off the
> backside of the manifold flange when I bought it, that I never noticed
> until the other two broke away, so it should be quieter than ever, once
> replaced.
> >
> >
> >
> > I have to say this little diesel is very satisfying to run, the way it
> really seems to dig in when the going gets tough.  I've got to try to find
> some good metal to make a brush guard with, to protect the radiator from
> future damage.  Does anyone have any suggestions for sources of free scrap
> metal?  I'm thinking I can probably find some old bed frames, something
> like that.  There was a cast iron sewer grate in the fill dirt, that would
> be awesome as a grill guard (not very convenient to remove, but would work
> as a weight on the front) - but not something I'm equipped to attach to the
> front of the tractor.  Actually, the kid may have buried it with the rocks,
> anyway.
> >
> >
> >
> > Scott in Penfield NY
> >
> >
> >
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