[AT] test

Fri Mar 4 18:16:57 PST 2016

Thanks John, I'll give it a try.

Al

On Thu, Mar 3, 2016 at 10:21 PM,  <jtchall at nc.rr.com> wrote:
> Ran your Cadet problem by a mechanic friend. He's thinking condenser is bad
> after I told him what else you have already replaced. I'd invest in a set of
> points and condenser and give it a try. Do yourself a favor and don't run
> the engine with the points cover off, oil comes through the screw holes.
>
> If that is not it, make sure your fuel is free of water, kind of sounds like
> that a little. Pulling the tank is real easy. There is a clamp dead center
> of the tank held on with two 1/4 nuts near the air cleaner. Remove the clamp
> and fuel line and you should be able to slide the tank out, will take a
> little bit of effort and you may have to gently pull the firewall towards
> the engine.
>
> John Hall
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Al Jones
> Sent: Thursday, March 03, 2016 8:29 PM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: Re: [AT] test
>
> Gas line is new.  Vent on the gas cap is clear.
>
> Al
>
> On Thu, Mar 3, 2016 at 9:02 AM, Alan  Nadeau <ajnadeau1 at myfairpoint.net>
> wrote:
>> I had the same problem with the K-532 in my JD 400 garden tractor.  Same
>> symptoms, would run fine for a few minutes then skip/cutout/backfire/die.
>> I
>> chased ignition issues for quite a while I tried blowing back through the
>> fuel line (by mouth).  Nothing, put the compressed air through it and
>> VOILA,
>> ran fine for a quite a while then started doing it again.  That time I
>> took
>> the tank off, major project as it is under the fender pan.  Turned out
>> that
>> there was enough accumulated grit in the tank to completely block the fuel
>> screen.  On some of the 400 tanks the outlet is threaded way big and
>> bushed
>> down to whatever the valve is threaded, like maybe from 3/8 pipe to 1/4"
>> pipe.  That created a little sump at the inlet which was filled completely
>> with fine grit.  I removed the valve, which was just about impossible to
>> access, and used a hose fitting in it's place, then added an inline valve
>> and a separate, inline filter.  Problem has never returned so I must have
>> diagnosed it right.
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Richard Fink Sr" <rfinksr at verizon.net>
>> To: "Antique tractor email discussion group"
>> <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>> Sent: Thursday, March 03, 2016 8:16 AM
>> Subject: Re: [AT] test
>>
>>
>>> If it runs that long i would be looking at the gas line sucking shut.
>>> R Fink Sr
>>> PA
>>>
>>> On 3/3/2016 6:08 AM, Al Jones wrote:
>>>> John yes it's a KT-17 II.  it will be running fine and then it will
>>>> start to do a faint missing.  Then full-on spitting and sputtering
>>>> until it pops, snaps, and dies.  Will not re-start till it cools off.
>>>> I haven't messed with the points and condenser yet.  I was at that
>>>> point where I needed to walk away for a while!
>>>>
>>>> Al
>>>>
>>>> On Wed, Mar 2, 2016 at 8:25 PM,  <jtchall at nc.rr.com> wrote:
>>>>> I'll see what I can find out. I assume it has a KT-17, series II? When
>>>>> it
>>>>> cuts off does it die suddenly or load up slowly, spit & sputter? Will
>>>>> it
>>>>> crank right back up or does it take a while? Give me a little more
>>>>> info,
>>>>> sounds like something simple.
>>>>>
>>>>> John Hall
>>>>>
>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>> From: Al Jones
>>>>> Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2016 8:07 PM
>>>>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>>>>> Subject: Re: [AT] test
>>>>>
>>>>> John, speaking of a 782...I have one that is demon possessed.  Bought
>>>>> it cheap and I found out why.  It will run for 5-10 minutes and then
>>>>> quit like it has a bad coil.  I've replaced coil, plugs, plug wires,
>>>>> even the fuel pump but I haven't fixed it.  Finally got mad and parked
>>>>> it in the corner of the garage.  Is there a trick to these old
>>>>> Kohlers?
>>>>>
>>>>> Al
>>>>>
>>>>> On Wed, Mar 2, 2016 at 7:43 PM,  <jtchall at nc.rr.com> wrote:
>>>>>> I'm still here, when I'm not at work or the shop!
>>>>>> Been resurrecting a Cub Cadet 782 that had a lot of driveshaft and
>>>>>> hydro
>>>>>> damage, it should have been a parts machine but its now ready to mow
>>>>>> grass
>>>>>> again.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Been working trying to add a dye marker pump on the John Blue sprayer
>>>>>> on
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> Farmall M. Basically trying to get it set up like it used to be back
>>>>>> in
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> 60's or 70's.  It uses a separate pump just for the dye marker. I've
>>>>>> never
>>>>>> used or seen a setup quite like this but some of the old timers say it
>>>>>> worked well. There is an extra nozzle on the end of each boom that
>>>>>> sprays
>>>>>> the dye solution. I have no idea why my family quit using it. I'm
>>>>>> pretty
>>>>>> much copying the concept, everything we had left of the old system was
>>>>>> dry
>>>>>> rotten, including the rubber flex impeller in the pump.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> John Hall
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>>> From: Greg Hass
>>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, March 01, 2016 11:21 PM
>>>>>> To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
>>>>>> Subject: [AT] test
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Haven't had any mail in over a week; is anyone still out their.
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