[AT] test

Thu Mar 3 19:21:15 PST 2016

Ran your Cadet problem by a mechanic friend. He's thinking condenser is bad 
after I told him what else you have already replaced. I'd invest in a set of 
points and condenser and give it a try. Do yourself a favor and don't run 
the engine with the points cover off, oil comes through the screw holes.

If that is not it, make sure your fuel is free of water, kind of sounds like 
that a little. Pulling the tank is real easy. There is a clamp dead center 
of the tank held on with two 1/4 nuts near the air cleaner. Remove the clamp 
and fuel line and you should be able to slide the tank out, will take a 
little bit of effort and you may have to gently pull the firewall towards 
the engine.

John Hall

-----Original Message----- 
From: Al Jones
Sent: Thursday, March 03, 2016 8:29 PM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: Re: [AT] test

Gas line is new.  Vent on the gas cap is clear.

Al

On Thu, Mar 3, 2016 at 9:02 AM, Alan  Nadeau <ajnadeau1 at myfairpoint.net> 
wrote:
> I had the same problem with the K-532 in my JD 400 garden tractor.  Same
> symptoms, would run fine for a few minutes then skip/cutout/backfire/die. 
> I
> chased ignition issues for quite a while I tried blowing back through the
> fuel line (by mouth).  Nothing, put the compressed air through it and 
> VOILA,
> ran fine for a quite a while then started doing it again.  That time I 
> took
> the tank off, major project as it is under the fender pan.  Turned out 
> that
> there was enough accumulated grit in the tank to completely block the fuel
> screen.  On some of the 400 tanks the outlet is threaded way big and 
> bushed
> down to whatever the valve is threaded, like maybe from 3/8 pipe to 1/4"
> pipe.  That created a little sump at the inlet which was filled completely
> with fine grit.  I removed the valve, which was just about impossible to
> access, and used a hose fitting in it's place, then added an inline valve
> and a separate, inline filter.  Problem has never returned so I must have
> diagnosed it right.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Richard Fink Sr" <rfinksr at verizon.net>
> To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" 
> <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Thursday, March 03, 2016 8:16 AM
> Subject: Re: [AT] test
>
>
>> If it runs that long i would be looking at the gas line sucking shut.
>> R Fink Sr
>> PA
>>
>> On 3/3/2016 6:08 AM, Al Jones wrote:
>>> John yes it's a KT-17 II.  it will be running fine and then it will
>>> start to do a faint missing.  Then full-on spitting and sputtering
>>> until it pops, snaps, and dies.  Will not re-start till it cools off.
>>> I haven't messed with the points and condenser yet.  I was at that
>>> point where I needed to walk away for a while!
>>>
>>> Al
>>>
>>> On Wed, Mar 2, 2016 at 8:25 PM,  <jtchall at nc.rr.com> wrote:
>>>> I'll see what I can find out. I assume it has a KT-17, series II? When
>>>> it
>>>> cuts off does it die suddenly or load up slowly, spit & sputter? Will 
>>>> it
>>>> crank right back up or does it take a while? Give me a little more 
>>>> info,
>>>> sounds like something simple.
>>>>
>>>> John Hall
>>>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: Al Jones
>>>> Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2016 8:07 PM
>>>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>>>> Subject: Re: [AT] test
>>>>
>>>> John, speaking of a 782...I have one that is demon possessed.  Bought
>>>> it cheap and I found out why.  It will run for 5-10 minutes and then
>>>> quit like it has a bad coil.  I've replaced coil, plugs, plug wires,
>>>> even the fuel pump but I haven't fixed it.  Finally got mad and parked
>>>> it in the corner of the garage.  Is there a trick to these old
>>>> Kohlers?
>>>>
>>>> Al
>>>>
>>>> On Wed, Mar 2, 2016 at 7:43 PM,  <jtchall at nc.rr.com> wrote:
>>>>> I'm still here, when I'm not at work or the shop!
>>>>> Been resurrecting a Cub Cadet 782 that had a lot of driveshaft and
>>>>> hydro
>>>>> damage, it should have been a parts machine but its now ready to mow
>>>>> grass
>>>>> again.
>>>>>
>>>>> Been working trying to add a dye marker pump on the John Blue sprayer
>>>>> on
>>>>> the
>>>>> Farmall M. Basically trying to get it set up like it used to be back 
>>>>> in
>>>>> the
>>>>> 60's or 70's.  It uses a separate pump just for the dye marker. I've
>>>>> never
>>>>> used or seen a setup quite like this but some of the old timers say it
>>>>> worked well. There is an extra nozzle on the end of each boom that
>>>>> sprays
>>>>> the dye solution. I have no idea why my family quit using it. I'm
>>>>> pretty
>>>>> much copying the concept, everything we had left of the old system was
>>>>> dry
>>>>> rotten, including the rubber flex impeller in the pump.
>>>>>
>>>>> John Hall
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>> From: Greg Hass
>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, March 01, 2016 11:21 PM
>>>>> To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
>>>>> Subject: [AT] test
>>>>>
>>>>> Haven't had any mail in over a week; is anyone still out their.
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