[AT] OT- Briggs and Stratton valve clearance

[rlgoss at twc.com]

I kept two items in supply in my shop for the replacement of the OEM porous items that would either get lost or go bad over time-- Scotch brite and stainless steel pot scratchers.  I found the tainless steel much better than steel wool because it doesn't rust.


Larry
---- Cecil Bearden <crbearden at copper.net> wrote: 
> You can replace that with stainless steel wool.   The pads are available 
> at Wal Mart...   Just stuff them in the tank.  Get the ones with the 
> coarse wool, or what looks like curled wire.  That way the vibration 
> won't cause little pieces to get in the carburetor.
> Cecil in OKla
> 
> On 6/25/2016 1:32 AM, k7jdj at aol.com wrote:
> > Thanks Charlie,
> >
> > That's been suggested by several others.  I like the challenge of the broken engine but at some point will likely just go with a Harbor Freight replacement.  The Briggs engine has a special gas tank that I replaced last year for what a replacement engine costs.  It is filled a a material that looks a little like Scotch bright.  This is to reduce issues caused by the extreme vibration. I hope to get back to repairs tomorrow.
> >
> > Gary
> > Renton, WA
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: charlie hill <charliehill at embarqmail.com>
> > To: Antique tractor email discussion group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> > Sent: Fri, Jun 24, 2016 8:42 pm
> > Subject: Re: [AT] OT- Briggs and Stratton valve clearance
> >
> > You can buy a 6.5 HP honda clone from Harbor Freight for about $100.00.
> > It should fit right in place of the B&S and it's a better engine.
> >
> > Charlie
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Dennis Johnson
> > Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2016 10:49 PM
> > To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> > Subject: Re: [AT] OT- Briggs and Stratton valve clearance
> >
> > Gary,
> >
> > Valve wear like what you describe are common on Brigg's engines. I have seen
> > it several times. Not sure of the exact wear mechanism but my guess is that
> > 3/4 of the wear is on the valve, and the other 1/4 is on the hardened seat.
> > When you get  Brigg's that losses power when hot, that is the first thing to
> > check.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Dennis
> >
> >
> > Sent from my iPad
> >
> >> On Jun 23, 2016, at 9:23 PM, John Hall <jtchall at nc.rr.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> Maybe if that engine was built for leaded fuel, the lack of the "cushion
> >> deposit" the lead used to leave has allowed for the seats and valves to
> >> hammer themselves to the point you lost clearance?
> >>
> >> John Hall
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>> On 6/23/2016 8:45 PM, k7jdj at aol.com wrote:
> >>> Not a lot of traffic so I thought I would post a question about a 70's
> >>> vintage  5 HP Briggs engine.  The engine is used on a plate compactor so
> >>> it is subject to extreme vibration.  I made the mistake of letting
> >>> someone else use it and got a report that the engine was running
> >>> extremely fast and you couldn't adjust the speed.  Quick check and it was
> >>> obvious the throttle plate had fallen off the shaft.  Not an easy fix but
> >>> after a lot of bad language I was able to reinstall with a new screw.
> >>> The engine would not start.  It would try but just would not run.  I
> >>> checked the compression and it was zero.  Pulled the head and discovered
> >>> the intake valve was not closing completely.  Exhaust was OK but probably
> >>> doesn't have enough clearance.  These valves are adjusted by
> >>> filing/grinding the valve stem.  Not a big deal but I can not figure out
> >>> why the valve clearance would decrease.  I can't imagine there can be
> >>> enough valve/seat ware to reduce clearance nor the valve stem growing l!
> > o!
> >> ng!
> >>>   er so what am I missing?
> >>>
> >>> Gary
> >>>
> >>> Renton, WA
> >>>
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