[AT] more old balers

[Ken Knierim]

We ran a 282 for years (eastern Montana) and had good service. I heard a
lot of folks cuss Wisconsins but the one on this 282 always started and ran
fine if you primed the fuel pump (manual lever on the pump). Run good
twine, make sure you have a supply of shear pins and maintain it and it'll
do well. (I think my uncle still has it after 40 years) They are heavy; it
was a bit much for the 9N to drag around fast. The JD A did well because
it's got a wide torque band and we could throttle back for heavy windrows.
We used it like a variable speed to get somewhere between 18 and 22 strokes
per bale (if I remember. it's been 30 years...). That baler tended to
either shake the hitches loose or OFF the tractor it was coupled to. (the A
never fully recovered).

One failure we saw repeatedly was it would break the axle on the heavy
side. This was because it had a dual tire (factory option maybe?) on that
side to prevent it from sinking into soft ground and it end-loaded
(cantilevered?) the shaft and broke it from time to time (I remember at
least twice; once I about ate the steering wheel and the 9N front came WAY
up before I clutched). If you break the axle and drop the baler the cage
under the needles can get bent. We always checked it to make sure it didn't
get too far out of line. And if it's been sitting awhile you may want to
make sure the plunger block/interlock on the needles is free and smooth. It
blocks the plunger if the needles are cycling and if it doesn't pull back
when they're done the main flywheel shear pin dies. There's also a shear
pin on the knotter drive and they're different sizes. We would hit heavy
enough material (or a tree branch!) or it would work loose occasionally and
we would loose a main flywheel shear pin about weekly under heavy service.
We kept the toolbox stocked. I'd look to see if someone has used regular
bolts rather than genuine parts (NH's were black oxide and had a
distinctive locknut). We were warned not to use regular bolts because it
might take out the plunger gearbox.

In retrospect I would probably look at a that axle and use a wider single
rim these days and run a lower tire pressure to absorb rough ground impact.
Watch for standard wear parts (we used it enough we had to replace pickup
teeth and guards and some idlers several times) and grease it regularly
(Dad's mantra). Not sure about parts availability but I ran it when fairly
new. I don't recall replacing much beyond a few wear parts unless we fed it
a badger hole or some wood. Get a manual though; it'll tell you how to set
up the timing if you have to replace a chain or something and you want that
right.

They (uncles and Dad) had a tractor-pulled New Holland bale wagon and we
made a fair number of bales per year.

I can still hear that Wisconsin wailing and the kaLUMPachikaLUMPachika of
the plungers and tines. :)

Hope this helps.

Ken in AZ

On Sat, Jun 18, 2016 at 10:39 AM, John Hall <jtchall at nc.rr.com> wrote:

> I guess this is kind of on topic since these are 40+ years old.
>
> Went today to look at a 273 New Holland baler. Not too bad but mighty
> rusty, been sitting outside. Price is a little high if you ask me. Next
> stop I looked at a 282 New Holland--big son of a gun. My understanding
> is it has a larger bale chamber and is supposedly a big capacity baler.
> Has hydraulic bale tensioner--never seen one around here. Also has close
> together pick-up fingers. Its shed kept, off of a dairy farm. Hasn't
> been ran in 20 years or so, alttle rusty from sitting. Anything I should
> watch out for on the 282?
>
> John Hall
>
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