[AT] Baling hay pictures

charlie hill charliehill at embarqmail.com
Wed Jul 27 04:03:28 PDT 2016


Get out your Ford books and see if their was a high crop version of that 
tractor or
another Ford (or maybe even Ferguson) tractor that had a taller tire/wheel 
combination
with the same bolt pattern.   Maybe talk to some of the local tractor 
pullers as well.
If you can find a taller wheel or even a wider tire for your existing rims 
you can get some more
height.    If you could find some taller tires and wheels somewhere, even if 
they are worn out
tires, you could swap them out on the tractor when you want to run the 
baler.


Charlie

-----Original Message----- 
From: Spencer Yost
Sent: Monday, July 25, 2016 9:49 AM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: Re: [AT] Baling hay pictures

Funny you mention that, because I did overfill (25psi instead of my normal 
15psi) my rear tires hoping the extra couple inches would allow me to swap 
my 2" drop  hitch around.   But that was wishful thinking.  It gave me maybe 
an inch.

Spencer Yost



Spencer Yost
> On Jul 24, 2016, at 11:33 AM, charlie hill <charliehill at embarqmail.com> 
> wrote:
>
> Spencer you need taller tires on your Ford!
>
> Charlie
>
> -----Original Message----- 
> From: Ralph Goff
> Sent: Friday, July 22, 2016 11:43 AM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: Re: [AT] Baling hay pictures
>
>> On 7/22/2016 9:13 AM, Spencer Yost wrote:
>> Ralph's post reminded me to give an update.  As you folks may have
>> remember, I was trying to figure out why my driveline rattled so bad
>> whenever I was making a turn with my haybine and my baler. In both cases 
>> I
>> was not able to make turns that I feel like I should  have been able to
>> make.
>>
>> I think I finally figured it out though.  The haybine requires a hitch
>> point 13 to 17 inches above the ground. I need to keep it closer to 17 to
>> maintain the amount mount of spring suspension on the head needed to
>> maintain the  recommended 80lbs lift.    At 16 inches, The manual also
>> suggests that the PTO shaft be 8 inches above the hitch point. The PTO
>> shaft is barely above the hitch point at 16" (is currently 2"). So
>> basically with the Ford tractor you end up with two mutually exclusive
>> specifications.   There is a noticeable downward angle to the PTO shaft 
>> if
>> I have the hitch point right for the head.  If I have the PTO shaft 
>> right,
>> I have a bulldozer for a cutting head.   I suspect I have the same 
>> problem
>> with the baler, but I'll see  tomorrow when I bale hay.
>>
>> This would also explain why I did not have any trouble with my
>> international equipment, because when I ran that equipment I ran it with
>> an Oliver 77 diesel. That PTO shaft was a good bit higher.
>>
>> Just wanted to give an update,
>>
>> Spencer Yost
> I'm going to double check all the manual recommended measurements for
> hitch and pto on my NH round baler.
> The hitch pin to tractor pto distance at 14 inches is right on. I have
> to check the height. Also wondering about the baler
> hitch height as that affects the angle of the second pto joint (the one
> I just broke) Funny how it worked fine since I
> bought the baler nearly ten years ago. Now I'm wondering did I have the
> sliding pto shaft assembled with the joints
> out of sync.?
> Local dealer says the nearest new yoke is in Indiana at a cost of $273!
> Crazy! I only paid $1200 for the baler. Do I
> put that much money into parts or look for another good used machine?
>
> Ralph in Sask.
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at


_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at 




More information about the AT mailing list