[AT] Splicing into a 12V circuit

[Darrell Ratliff]

Soldering really isn’t difficult.  Make sure the joint is clean and apply the heat to the joint and the solder to the wires and not the iron / soldering gun.  A well tinned tip is essential for good heat transfer.   Just like soldering copper pipes – the solder will flow towards the heat.


From: ATIS 
Sent: Tuesday, January 12, 2016 6:27 PM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group 
Subject: Re: [AT] Splicing into a 12V circuit

Scotchlok brand inline taps work fine, but don't last like a nice soldered connection.  The "bite" in the wire often damages the wires and tends to corrode over time.  They make a weatherproof version, or used to, that did better but I can never find them locally.  Posi-lock is even better but are expensive.
 
My problem with soldering is that I can do it on a bench in controlled conditions fairly well, but upside down under your tractor and in the cold I tend to burn a lot of  insulation. 

I have used, and I'm never afraid to use scotchlok but I know some people absolutely hate them because of the longevity and damage issue.  I just simply use them and 5-10 years later when the connection goes bad, I go ahead and splice and solder then.  Just make sure and use the size that is correct for your gauge of wire.

Good luck,

Spencer Yost

> On Jan 12, 2016, at 5:01 PM, Mike M <meulenms at gmx.com> wrote:
> 
> Hi All,
> I bought some LED lights to augment the dim OEM lights that came on my 
> tractor. What I'd like to do, is tie into the "bright" light circuit so 
> when I turn the bright lights on they all come on, yet I can still run 
> down the road with the normal lights on without blinding people. I think 
> it was John Hall that added LED's to his tractor or combine, and I was 
> wondering the best way to tap into the circuit. Generally I like to 
> solder, but admittedly my soldering skills suck. Any thoughts would be 
> appreciated.
> 
> Thanks,
> Mike M
> 
> 
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