[AT] Case 430 drawbar

[Len Rugen]

H & M's U shaped drawbars broke at the center hole, quicker if you hooked directly in that hole instead of using the swinging drawbar or a hitch plate.  https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0543/7597/products/1_4fccb61c-c2c9-406c-80e4-43ca495957fa_large.jpeg?v=1449183348 The last one we broke was a WD-45, it had ran a roto-baler for about a million bales.  It broke at a bolt hole also, I figure it had work hardened from the PTO vibration and impact from towing the baler.  Those drawbars weren't solidly mounted, they flopped a little with every bump the baler hit.
I broke a lift arm on my MF255 a few years ago with a 8' semi-mounted cutter.  I dropped one tractor wheel into a ditch (not that big) and the twist and opposite of normal direction force snapped the arm.  There was a slightly rusted crack at the beginning of the break, again at a bolt hole.  

Len Rugen

rugenl at yahoo.com


 

    On Sunday, December 25, 2016 6:57 PM, Len Rugen <rugenl at yahoo.com> wrote:
 

 Yea, we discussed the pros/cons of making one :-)   We were still wondering what it looked like, but I think I just found a picture.  It seemed that the swinging part had to wrap back up and over the arc'ed plate with the holes, that part is on the tractor.    
I think this is what it looks like: http://photos.yesterdaystractors.com/gallery/uptest/a135024.jpg
We have been calling it a 430, but its gas, so I guess it's really a 440, but I think the drawbar would be the same.  
At 34 HP & 3200 lbs, this pic sure looks like overkill :-)  
 

Len Rugen

rugenl at yahoo.com


 

    On Sunday, December 25, 2016 6:15 PM, Greg Hass <ghass at m3isp.com> wrote:
 

 Try Agri-supply. I just looked and they do have some swinging drawbars 
at what I think are fair prices. You may have to change the mounting 
some to make one fit, but that should not be a problem as you are not 
dealing with 500 hp. . That is one reason I enjoy making implements for 
my Farmall Cub because with its smaller hp. it does not take an 
engineering degree to make them work. I don't think I would try making 
the drawbar itself as it is too hard to get the springiness correct. To 
hard a metal and they snap ( a neighbor once made one out of a heavy 
grader blade edge and it broke the first time he bounced through a 
furrow with a manure spreader). Use regular steel and it will probably 
bend. Years ago, we broke a drawbar on an IH 504, too much weight going 
through a sharp furrow; I tried welding it but it changed the temper of 
the steel and if stressed it would always break again near the weld. 
Hope this helps.
        Greg Hass
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