[AT] 276 new holland baler--first time out

[John Hall]

Yeah, wish I had a hydrostatic tractor. Running the old Super 66 for the 
past 25 years we were able to compensate easily for variation in 
windrows. I pulled it with a DC Case at about 1/3 throttle. If you hit a 
thin/small windrow you just shove the throttle wide open. With that 
machine you drove however that 2 cylinder Wisconsin told you to. With 
me, I pushed it until the belts would try to squeal a bit. Bet we never 
put in 5 shear pins. The power match for the baler size was perfect. I 
noticed the 276 could have been bought with a 4 cylinder Wisconsin, that 
would be fun!

John Hall


On 8/14/2016 7:20 PM, Jason wrote:
> You'll get banana bales of you have a light windrow too.
>
> On Sun, Aug 14, 2016, 6:09 PM Spencer Yost <yostsw at atis.net> wrote:
>
>> As I have understood it, banana bales are all in how the bale chamber is
>> loaded with the the forks, as you alluded to.  The knife need to be sharp,
>> and if it doesn't cut well the plunger will drag too much hay past the
>> knife.   But in my experience it has to basically non-operational before
>> that happens.    I would keep working the fork angle.
>>
>> Are you adjusting the forks with the pivot arm?
>>
>> Spencer Yost
>>
>>
>>
>> Spencer Yost
>>> On Aug 14, 2016, at 8:29 AM, John Hall <jtchall at nc.rr.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Yesterday I took my new-to-me 40 year old 276 New Holland baler out for
>>> the first time. It did pretty well. I just got all the tine fork
>>> mechanism put back in yesterday morning, talk about cutting it close---I
>>> went from the shop directly to the field and started baling. The tine
>>> forks had once upon a time self destructed--bent up the tracks, bent the
>>> shaft the idlers fit into, bent the seperator bar that strips the hay
>>> off, drive chain one tooth out of time etc. I pulled all of it out and
>>> started properly rebuilding--whomever tried fixing it was doing no more
>>> than emergency first aid.  If you have ever had the tube the tine forks
>>> mount on apart you know all about the huge compression spring and the
>>> nylon blocks the rod must slide thru. I made new nylon blocks,
>>> straightend and rewelded the rod that the spring goes around, pulled the
>>> seals out of the bearings and repacked them. I left the big shield off
>>> the side of the baler for now so I could see if everything was working
>>> as it should. To start with the baler was tight/rusty. In the shop I had
>>> to use a 3 ft pry bar and lots of muscle to roll the baler over past the
>>> peak of bale compression--with running that has gotten much better. Also
>>> had to loosen up a couple hay dogs. I did find the slip clutch for the
>>> pickup slips if you get to feeding too much---I think it just needs
>>> adjusting. The knotter never missed a bale!
>>>   I am having trouble with banana bales. I have moved the pair of tine
>>> forks next to the chamber about as far as they will go toward the
>>> chamber--thats what the book says to do.  Most of the bow has gone, we
>>> have more to bale Mon. so I'll see then.
>>> I am surprised how hard the baler pulls--as in hearing the back lash
>>> in the tractors driveline. We are running it with a 4020 Deere. When I
>>> initially tested the baler we were running it with a 454 IH. Both of
>>> those tractors used to run our 3XX series New Holland---bigger than this
>>> one. I'm wondering if my knife is out of adjustment---maybe this would
>>> contribute to the banana bale issue--bales are long on the knife side?
>>> Now that the rust is out of the inside I can better check that.
>>>
>>> John Hall
>>>
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