[AT] Modern Gasoline

charlie hill charliehill at embarqmail.com
Fri Aug 26 14:08:29 PDT 2016


If the carb has a bowl with a drain plug on it, dump it and run some fresh 
gas
through it.  If you're lucky you won't have to clean the guts of the carb.

Charlie

-----Original Message----- 
From: Mogrits
Sent: Friday, August 26, 2016 2:20 PM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: Re: [AT] Modern Gasoline

Well, the "old gas" bug bit me today on, of all things, an edger with a
Briggs with the simple carb.

Apparently, I put it up last year with 1/2 tank ethanol gas in it, and
today topped off the tank with non-ethanol and took it to my Lodge to edge
the sidewalks. Well, it would not start. A shot of ether and it fired right
up, so I took off the gas cap and noticed a lot of crud in the tank bottom.
Poured all that out on a pesky patch of English Ivy and sprayed in some
carb and choke cleaner followed by a little good gas. Swished it around and
dumped all that out and topped up with fresh gas. Still no joy except with
ether.

So, this weekend I'll take off the tank and clean it proper, and clean the
screen on the bottom of the carb dip tube and hopefully that's all it will
take.

Warren

On Fri, Aug 26, 2016 at 11:01 AM, cecil bearden <crbearden at copper.net>
wrote:

> I rebuilt 6 horiz shaft I/C briggs engines on fire pumps a few years
> back. Had to bore them out .020..  They ran great and were dependable.
> That overhead valve design with the "no points" system was a pile of crap.
>
> Cecil in OKla
>
>
> On 8/26/2016 9:31 AM, Ken Knierim wrote:
> > Cecil,
> >      I am guessing the overhead I/C versions have issues I've not seen
> as I
> > have no experience with them. The flathead vertical shaft versions of 
> > the
> > I/C engines were lawn-service-monkey resistant... that's like saying
> > "baggage handler resistant". They were tough.
> >      That said, I have a Intek OHV Briggs on a JD-labeled riding mower
> that
> > came to me in pieces, and between the bent pushrods and blown fuel pump
> I'm
> > not impressed with it yet. Again, heat and service is partially to 
> > blame,
> > but they also recommend tearing the shroud off them and cleaning the
> > cylinder head every so often. The average homeowner won't (didn't) do
> that,
> > and once the fins plug, the engine starts to heat and the head warps;
> > usually after 5 to 7 years from what I'm reading. Once it's warped,
> > combustion gases leaked into the crankcase will blow oil out on the fins
> > and will also blow the fuel pump diaphram out. The engines are designed
> to
> > have about 400-500 hour lifespans with regular service. Severe
> dirt/service
> > and heat are the bane of any engine, and air-cooled equipment usually
> comes
> > up short in on a 115+ degree day. I tried getting by with cleaning up
> > everything but I need to spring for the $100 head assembly to fix it
> right,
> > and I haven't pried my wallet open because it's still running (and
> > leaking.) The rest of the tractor is pretty worn out and probably should
> be
> > replaced anyway. It took over an hour of welding with my MIG to get the
> > deck back together, plus all new spindles, blades, belts and pulleys.
> >      Then I look at how tired my 8N with the flail mower is (my main
> mower),
> > and think that the cylinder head isn't so expensive... maybe I can get 
> > by
> > until November with what I have.
> >
> > Ken in AZ
> >
> >
> >
> > On Fri, Aug 26, 2016 at 6:54 AM, cecil bearden <crbearden at copper.net>
> wrote:
> >
> >> I had one of the later model I/C Briggs engines on a Pacer pump that I
> >> used to build a fire pump trailer rig with.   I could not keep that
> >> engine running,  It would act like it had a fuel problem, and i 
> >> replaced
> >> the carb parts, spark plug, and it was the same.  Would run like it was
> >> starving for gas.   I finally changed the coil and it made no
> >> difference.   I sanded down the flywheel and magnets and it ran fine.
> >> Installed the old coil and it ran fine.  If there was a heavy dew, the
> >> flywheel rusted and the engine was crap.
> >>
> >> I had a fire and lost a storage van with over $30k( at last count) 
> >> worth
> >> of parts in it.  I tried to get that engine running, but it was just 
> >> too
> >> much time to sand down the flywheel again.   I wrote Briggs & Stratton
> >> later and told them just what I thought of their engine, and they
> >> referred me to the servicing dealer...
> >>
> >> I have never bought another overhead valve Briggs engine unless it
> >> wasinstalled on a piece of equip.  I have replaced several Briggs
> >> engines and some Tecumseh engines with the CHONDA engines from Harbor
> >> freight and have no regrets.  They start on the first or second pull 
> >> and
> >> run fine. I am sonsidering using the big twin cylinder on the zero turn
> >> mower we have that has been down for 2 years because I have to nearly
> >> dismantle the mower and engine to install new points.   I keep 2 on 
> >> hand
> >> in case something goes wrong with the small engines I have on my other
> >> equipment.   I don't have the patience or time to screw with working on
> >> one. When you get older, working time gets to be very valuable
> commodity.
> >>
> >> I used to spend a lot of time trying to save a few bucks.  Now, throw 
> >> it
> >> in the scrap and go on...
> >>
> >> Cecil in Okla
> >>
> >>
> >> On 8/26/2016 8:30 AM, Ken Knierim wrote:
> >>> Mike,
> >>> In fleet service these mowers ran up to about 6 hours per day in temps
> up
> >>> to 110 degrees and many times HUGE clouds of dust. The guy running the
> >>> place had a standing order that if the oil wasn't clear it needed to 
> >>> be
> >>> changed, and flipping them over didn't exactly drain all the oil (his
> >>> schedule and money, not mine). The mowers were also washed down when 
> >>> we
> >>> serviced them, and if the paint wasn't good they got a spritz of that
> >> too.
> >>> These were very low cost Briggs engines; Briggs later came out with 
> >>> the
> >> I/C
> >>> engines but the owner was too cheap (sorry, "frugal") to get them. The
> >>> replacement engines usually had the serial numbers ground off them 
> >>> too.
> >> We
> >>> had to replace wheels and bearings every so often too... the ball
> >> bearings
> >>> would wear out and the plastic wheels had to be replaced occasionally
> if
> >> it
> >>> was someone's favorite mower deck... these were used a LOT.
> >>>
> >>> Before they were loaded onto trucks, all the engines had to be started
> >> and
> >>> ran awhile (the apartment complex next door wasn't real thrilled. up 
> >>> to
> >> 15
> >>> Briggs engines warming up at 4 AM.. then a dozen or so weedeaters...)
> It
> >>> was a weird place to work, but I preferred to service the equipment
> >> rather
> >>> than push a mower. The next place I worked at got some of the I/C
> engines
> >>> with the magnetron ignitions. Oh, what a difference... they didn't 
> >>> wear
> >> out
> >>> in spite of a much longer service interval, and they started a lot
> better
> >>> because Briggs actually spent another 10 cents putting bronze bushings
> on
> >>> the carb throttle shafts (and the ignition was a LOT better). :)
> >>>
> >>> One other thing... when one of the cheap engines wore down enough to
> pull
> >>> the head and start looking in it (adjust valves, etc) it was cheaper 
> >>> to
> >>> toss and replace than spend increasing amounts of time on it. And to 
> >>> be
> >>> honest, I don't recall EVER having one of the I/C engines apart. I
> >> believe
> >>> they were steel sleeved engines, ball bearings on the crank, better
> carbs
> >>> and ignitions and so forth. And by that time, the new place I was at
> >> didn't
> >>> push things as hard. That was 30+ years ago though.
> >>>
> >>> Ken in AZ
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> On Thu, Aug 25, 2016 at 9:53 PM, Mike M <meulenms at gmx.com> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> Can you explain further Ken? I've never heard of this type of service
> >>>> interval?
> >>>>
> >>>> Mike M
> >>>>
> >>>> On 8/25/2016 4:51 PM, Ken Knierim wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>> Th, oil changed every 2 days, Engines would last
> >>>>> 4-6 months.
> >>>>> Ken in AZ
> >>>>> On Thu, Aug 25, 2016 at 11:29 AM, Stephen Offiler <
> soffiler at gmail.com>
> >>>>> wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> This is interesting stuff, and it's the reason I posed the 
> >>>>>> question.
> >>>> I'm
> >>>>>> not sure if I've ever seen one of these types of carbs.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> SO
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> On Thu, Aug 25, 2016 at 12:49 PM, <rlgoss at twc.com> wrote:
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>> But there were actually several different designs of those 
> >>>>>>> carb/gas
> >>>> tank
> >>>>>>> combinations that looked alike but operated differently. Some had 
> >>>>>>> a
> >>>>>>> built-in settling bowl that the built-in gas pump had to keep
> >>>>>>> full-to-overflowing for the engine to run.  The fuel pump was
> FOREVER
> >>>>>> going
> >>>>>>> bad so I bought replacement diaphragms in lots of 10 so I didn't
> have
> >>>> to
> >>>>>>> make a shopping trip whenever I needed one.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Larry
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> ---- Mogrits <mogrits at gmail.com> wrote:
> >>>>>>>> Stephen,
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> In a word: simplicity.The old Briggs carbs had no floats to get
> >>>>>>> saturated,
> >>>>>>>> no needle and seat to stick or wear out, no tiny passages and no
> >> float
> >>>>>>> bowl
> >>>>>>>> to collect crud to ruin the above mentioned parts. I guess they
> used
> >>>>>> the
> >>>>>>>> entire tank as a "bowl". I realize they are limited in that the
> carb
> >>>>>> must
> >>>>>>>> sit on top of the tank, but man, were they simple. If the motor
> >>>>>> wouldn't
> >>>>>>>> start or run correctly, you just unscrewed the gas cap and looked
> in
> >>>>>> the
> >>>>>>>> tank. If you saw water or trash in it, two bolts had it off and
> >>>>>> emptied.
> >>>>>>>> Warren
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> On Tue, Aug 23, 2016 at 8:17 AM, Stephen Offiler <
> >> soffiler at gmail.com>
> >>>>>>> wrote:
> >>>>>>>>> Hi Warren:
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> Interesting.  From a purely technical standpoint, how is the old
> >> B&S
> >>>>>>>>> venturi carb superior?
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> SO
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> On Tue, Aug 23, 2016 at 7:50 AM, Mogrits <mogrits at gmail.com>
> >> wrote:
> >>>>>>>>>> Stephen, I have no idea, as I haven't left gas in one that 
> >>>>>>>>>> long,
> >>>>>> but
> >>>>>>> if
> >>>>>>>>>> someone would mate the old Briggs and Stratton venturi carb (no
> >>>>>> bowl
> >>>>>>> and
> >>>>>>>>>> float) to the Honda OHV design with electronic ignition, they
> >> would
> >>>>>>> have
> >>>>>>>>>> the ideal small engine.
> >>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>> Warren
> >>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>> On Mon, Aug 22, 2016 at 12:45 PM, Stephen Offiler <
> >>>>>>> soffiler at gmail.com>
> >>>>>>>>>> wrote:
> >>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>> Do those Chonda engines run on 18-month old gas like the real
> >>>>>>> thing?
> >>>>>>>>>>> SO
> >>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>> On Mon, Aug 22, 2016 at 10:24 AM, Mogrits <mogrits at gmail.com>
> >>>>>>> wrote:
> >>>>>>>>>>>> Charlie, that should indeed work as a replacement for him. I
> >>>>>> put
> >>>>>>> one
> >>>>>>>>> of
> >>>>>>>>>>>> those on a Murray 20" push mower body to create what I call
> >>>>>>>>>>> "Frankenmower".
> >>>>>>>>>>>> Starts just like a Honda, and cuts through most anything
> >>>>>> without
> >>>>>>>>>>> complaint,
> >>>>>>>>>>>> including "monkey grass" or lariope. Some people have adaptor
> >>>>>>> issues
> >>>>>>>>>>> mating
> >>>>>>>>>>>> them up, but the review section of the Harbor Freight page
> >>>>>> gives
> >>>>>>>>>>> solutions
> >>>>>>>>>>>> to almost all of those.
> >>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>> Around here we call them "Chondas", as they appear to be
> >>>>>>> knock-offs
> >>>>>>>>> of
> >>>>>>>>>>> the
> >>>>>>>>>>>> Honda OHV design.
> >>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>> Warren
> >>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>> On Sun, Aug 21, 2016 at 6:47 PM, charlie hill <
> >>>>>>>>>>> charliehill at embarqmail.com>
> >>>>>>>>>>>> wrote:
> >>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> Dick wouldn't this work as a replacement for the 5.5 
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> vertical
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> http://www.harborfreight.com/55-hp-173cc-ohv-vertical-
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> shaft-gas-engine-carb-69731.html
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> Charlie
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> -----Original Message-----
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> From: Dick Day
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2016 11:20 PM
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> Subject: Re: [AT] Modern Gasoline
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> Several years ago, I converted our 15-year old Generac
> >>>>>>> generator to
> >>>>>>>>>> LP.
> >>>>>>>>>>>> It
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> always did start easy (electric start) but with LP I can
> >>>>>>> connect it
> >>>>>>>>>> to
> >>>>>>>>>>>> our
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> 500gallon LP tank if we ever got stranded by a blizzard.
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> My other gas implements (push mower, 2 garden tractors, 
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> power
> >>>>>>>>> washer,
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> tiller) don't always start as easy even though I would let
> >>>>>> the
> >>>>>>> gas
> >>>>>>>>>> run
> >>>>>>>>>>>> out
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> in the fall.    My plan was to convert every gas engine we
> >>>>>> had.
> >>>>>>>>> I've
> >>>>>>>>>>>> also
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> got a Troy Built sickle mower. That was next on my list to
> >>>>>>> convert
> >>>>>>>>>>> until
> >>>>>>>>>>>> I
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> discovered that there are no engines I can buy to replace 
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> the
> >>>>>>>>>> vertical
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> 5.5hp Briggs that's on there.  I don't think that converting
> >>>>>>> it to
> >>>>>>>>> LP
> >>>>>>>>>>>> would
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> necessarily hurt the engine but decided not to take a chance
> >>>>>>> and
> >>>>>>>>>> never
> >>>>>>>>>>>> got
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> around to the other engines. I retire next spring. Once that
> >>>>>>>>> happens,
> >>>>>>>>>>>> I'll
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> get back on my LP conversion project.
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> On Sat, Aug 20, 2016 at 3:34 PM, Stephen Offiler <
> >>>>>>>>> soffiler at gmail.com
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> wrote:
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> I just pulled out my power washer and realized it has not
> >>>>>>> been
> >>>>>>>>> run
> >>>>>>>>>>>> since
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> March 2015.  Half a tank of fuel still sloshing around.  On
> >>>>>>> the
> >>>>>>>>>>>> upside, I
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> am always careful to turn off the gas and run the carb dry.
> >>>>>>> I am
> >>>>>>>>>>> also
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> careful to add Sta-Bil as soon as I purchase gas.  We have
> >>>>>>>>> ethanol
> >>>>>>>>>> in
> >>>>>>>>>>>> our
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> gas around here like in most places in the USA.
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> It started on the first pull.  Literally.
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> Engine is a 9HP Honda GX270 (I think).  I suppose there
> >>>>>>> might be
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> qualities
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> of the engine (strong spark, strong fuel vaporization in
> >>>>>> the
> >>>>>>>>> carb,
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> whatever...) that help it run on crappy old gas.  Or
> >>>>>>> something.
> >>>>>>>>>> I'm
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> still
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> shaking my head in amazement.
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> SO
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________
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