[AT] Spam> Hydraulic Oil Ffoaming

[Scott Williams]

So would my '72 MF 135 use the PMO?  When you asked if it was a 35 Deluxe, I
thought of Multi Power, is that the reason a Deluxe needs the PMO?  I don't
have that, just the 6 forward, 2 reverse.

Scott in Brighton NY

-----Original Message-----
From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
[mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of Cecil R Bearden
Sent: Tuesday, September 15, 2015 7:02 PM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: Re: [AT] Spam> Hydraulic Oil Ffoaming

Charlie:
Most all of them used the PMO 90 Fords and Ferguson and MF until MF started
using the engine  mounted pumps and ford when they started the
1000-5000 series.  The old ferguson system with the piston pump in the
bottom of the rear end used PMO 90.  The easiest way to remember was the
piston pumps used the PMO...

Cecil in oKla


On 9/15/2015 2:51 PM, charlie hill wrote:
> Cecil,  I never knew the Deluxe model used mineral oil.
> If I remember right that is the same thing you run in Fuller 
> Roadranger transmissions.
>
> Charlie
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Cecil R Bearden
> Sent: Tuesday, September 15, 2015 2:20 PM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: Re: [AT] Spam> Hydraulic Oil Ffoaming
>
> I would also bet its water in the oil instead of really foaming.  The 
> gearshift boot and the top link shaft into the tip deck are the 2 
> places to get water in.  Try to keep the tractor out of the =weather 
> if at all possible.
> Also, if it is a  35 Deluxe, it requires PMO 90Wt  This is a Pure 
> Mineral OIl 90 Wt.  303 fluid and MF1129A is20 wt.  90Wt gear oil is 
> equal to about 50 wt motor oil.  It must be Pure mineral oil or it 
> will foam. Gear oil like GL5 will foam. The screen should be located 
> between
> 2 "cups" one on top and one on bottom and held with a bolt with a tab 
> on the head to remove it.  I worked in the local MF dealership while 
> in H.S. and college from 68-75, back there in the old days....
>
> Cecil in OKla
>
>
>
>
> On 9/15/2015 11:00 AM, charlie hill wrote:
>> Dennis,  Bo's advice is sound but one thing you can look for.  If it 
>> sits completely unused until you get back to it, before you start it 
>> up take the drain plug out.  The fluid will have had time to 
>> completely settle out and if there is water in the system it will 
>> come pouring out first, followed by the oil.
>> If you drain it like that and let some of the oil out, then put the 
>> plug back in, top it off and try it and see if the problems is gone 
>> or improved.
>>
>> I don't have a lot of MF experience but I've had water get into the 
>> hydraulics on my Allis tractors and was able to get it out using this 
>> method.
>> I agree with Bo, changing it out is good advice.  Either way drain it 
>> before you ever start it up and the water and crud should come out 
>> first.
>>
>> Charlie
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Dennis Johnson
>> Sent: Tuesday, September 15, 2015 10:11 AM
>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>> Subject: [AT] Spam> Hydraulic Oil Ffoaming
>>
>> I have a MF35 Deluxe on Oklahoma. 3 point used to work fine a year 
>> ago, but get weak and slow after 2 hours of use. Now it works for 10 
>> to 15 minutes and then the oil foams and lift stops working until 
>> after it sets and the foam goes away.
>> I have checked the screen and it seems to be OK by feeling around it, 
>> but have not taken it out. Feels like it is wired in place. Oil level is
fine.
>> I wonder if there is condensation in the oil causing the foaming.
>> I also wonder if the relief valve is dumping oil and that is causing 
>> foaming.
>> I have not had enough time in Oklahoma to spend a lot of time trying 
>> various things. Next time there I plan to completely drain the system 
>> and reseal covers that are leaking.
>>
>> Any thoughts on why this is foaming?
>>
>> Thanks
>> Dennis
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
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