[AT] Stuck JD B - Fix typos

Wed Oct 14 20:43:33 PDT 2015

Dean:
Well Said..

Cecil in OKla

On 10/14/2015 8:59 PM, Dean VP wrote:
> Ray,
>
> I concur with Cecil's suggestions.  Worrying about the state of the rod bearings is similar to fencing
> with windmills at this stage until you get it loose. I agree with getting the combustion chamber as
> full as possible with the liquid concoction to break through the rusted rings. There are a lot of
> recipes for this fluid. I happen to like a 50:50 mix of diesel fuel and Automatic Transmission fluid.
> Or substitute the ATF with brake fluid. Kriol oil is often recommended.  I too recommend making sure
> that there is not a stuck valve before you start trying to turn the flywheel. I take off the Tappet
> cover and verify that each valve is loose before even considering turning the flywheel. Really bad
> things happen if a valve is stuck closed or partially closed.  Then an extreme amount of patience is
> needed while the magic formula is soaking in the combustion chamber. I put a bar to the flywheel and
> each day it soaks I try to move the flywheel one way or the other. It may take weeks. But once you get
> any movement at all then you can gently rock the flywheel back and forth until you get a couple full
> revolutions.  Then with the plugs out and Diesel Fuel or Kerosene in the crankcase I get another
> tractor and pull the stuck tractor in reverse gear with the clutch engaged in reverse and cause the
> pistons and the rest of the engine to loosen up and get fully lubricated before you try to start it.
> Watch to see if any oil pressure shows on the oil pressure gauge during this process. Some of the
> noises coming from the engine as the rings slide past the spot they were rusted to the cylinder walls
> will be a bit disconcerting. But there isn't much you can do about that unless you want to tear down
> the whole engine and hone the cylinder walls.  Some of the rings may be stuck and if the cylinders are
> not an equal bore from top to bottom considerable resistance may be encountered.
>
> But.....  let's say all of the above is successful and you now want to try to start the tractor by
> pulling it or hand starting it.  And let's say you get it running, although poorly, a bunch of
> internal stuff has to happen to run properly. The valves probably need to reseat and the rings all
> need to be loosen up so they provide compression and an oil block. This too may take some run time to
> accomplish their proper function.  Getting the tractor to run at or near 200 degrees for a long period
> of time will speed up the rehabilitation process. Closing the shutters, if you can get them to move,
> is good and then I also cover the whole grill area to get the tractor to run at normal operating
> temperature. There are no thermostats in a JD of this era so one has to control the air flow through
> the radiator to get them warmed up. Running them at 200 degrees or so will be the best thing you can
> do to get the engine cleaned up. Use only non-detergent oil in the crankcase unless you know it is
> really clean with no sludge. Detergent oil works too good on these old dirty engines. Yes, it will
> clean the insides up but at a risk of loosening some sludge up that might plug an oil line somewhere.
> Worst case at a bearing. I start by putting new non-detergent oil in the crankcase and a new oil
> filter. Then after some run hours I drain the oil out and change filters. Depending on what the oil
> looks like on exit you may want to do this step over.  If I am concerned about how dirty things look I
> may remove the cover over the crankcase and manually remove all the sludge at the bottom of the case
> and
> rinse with kerosene or diesel fuel.  Only when I think I've done my best to get the inside of the
> engine clean will I consider using detergent oil. And I change oil filters each time I change the oil
> because all the gunk is supposed to be caught in the filter.  With the price of oil and filters you
> may think this procedure is a bit expensive, just think of what the expense will be if an oil line or
> channel  gets plugged.
>
> Good Luck.  There is a real joy when the first movement of the flywheel occurs and then the next is
> when it starts running the first time. To me these two events are the most fun of the whole hobby. All
> the fancy
> paint jobs and sizzle don't even come close to that for me.
>
>
> Dean VP
> Snohomish, WA
>
> If we can employ guards with guns to protect money, we can and should employ guards with guns to
> protect people. Bernard Goldberg.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com [mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of
> Cecil R Bearden
> Sent: Wednesday, October 14, 2015 12:44 PM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: Re: [AT] Stuck JD B
>
> Ray:
>    Until you know how bad the crank is you don't need to worry about the
> bearings.  Just remember where every shim came out of when you take it
> apart...   If you can get a gallon of Marvel Mystery Oil and a Quart of
> Acetone, then mix them up and pour the mixture into the spark plug
> holes, the exhaust pipe  and the  intake  Make a extension to get the
> liquid into all  the upper passages.  Be sure the cylinders are full,
> even if you have to open a valve to get the liquid to the top of the
> cylinder.   Then, if you get the crankshaft to rocking, check to make
> sure the camshaft is turning.   I had an early JD many years ago and it
> was stuck.   I hauled it to OKC from Louisiana.  We got the crank to
> move some, and had liquid in the cylinders with the plugs out.   We
> pulled it with another tractor and when I let out the clutch, I broke
> the entire upper housing that holds the camshaft.  Never did get that
> tractor running.  So make sure everything is moving before putting any
> real torque on the crankshaft...
>
> Cecil in OKla
>
>
> On 10/14/2015 1:11 PM, Ray Trimble wrote:
>> I have a B with the engine stuck s/n 93620. I am researching how to go about freeing it.
>> It look like the way to go is to remove the block with the pistons with it. What bothers me
>> is the parts manual shows inserts bearing for the connecting rods, only shims. This leads
>> to fear this I may be dealing with a babbit bearing, which I know nothing about. First I don't know
> anyone
>> who pours them and to get that done the crankshaft would have to be removed. I don't
>> want to do that, I remember posts yeard ago about the flywheel never being able to keep tight.
>>
>> Can anyone inform me what I am faceting?
>>
>> Thanks
>> Ray
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