[AT] Flail mowers

David Bruce davidbruce at yadtel.net
Fri May 15 20:39:35 PDT 2015


My AC D-14 (which is in that HP class) handles a single shank subsoiler 
quite well even in the North Carolina clay.

David
NW NC

On 5/15/2015 11:03 PM, Mike wrote:
> I've actually thought about a subsoiler, I think my 40 HP tractor could
> handle  a one shank. If I were to subsoil to the "ditch" I could pump
> put the added water.
>
> Mike M
>
>
> On 5/15/2015 8:49 PM, jtchall at nc.rr.com wrote:
>> How about a subsoiler? If you’ve got any grade at all you can use them to
>> create water channels underground. Be advised that wherever you stop at the
>> low end, the water will try to blow out.
>>
>> Sickle mowers should work fine, but if you let it get too tall, you may have
>> to play with the tailboard so it will keep a clean enough streak to make the
>> second pass. Also, if there is a bunch of thatch on the ground you may have
>> to twist the blade so the guards point up some or they will choke up. Before
>> bushhogs, folks used to mount clipping wheels on the end with the tailboard
>> to keep from choking the guards.
>>
>> A good grooming mower is hard to beat. The one we have is made by Lilliston
>> and is about 40 years old. It's only on its second deck, which has been
>> resheeted with 1/8 steel, had a few sets of belts, countless sets of blades,
>> a few U joints, several spindle rebuilds, but the main gearbox is untouched
>> as is the tailwheel.  Considering the heavy use it has been through I dare
>> say it is one of the toughest pieces of equipment to ever come on this farm.
>>
>> John Hall
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Spencer Yost
>> Sent: Friday, May 15, 2015 7:34 PM
>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>> Subject: Re: [AT] Flail mowers
>>
>> Someone else will have to comment on the grading.   I know zip.  But i'll
>> share the only relevant story I know.
>>
>> In the eastern part of the state (Ahoskie NC) I had an acquaintance who
>> decided the only solution was to make his land perfectly flat. He even used
>> a surveyor's transit and everything. It improved his situation according to
>> him because it would encourage the water to evenly disperse across entire
>> property where soak-in and evaporation were both encouraged.   I'd call him
>> but he is related to my son's ex-girlfriend. (-:
>>
>> He had the advantage of access to a bulldozer, no water flowing in and
>> fairly sandy soil.  Not like Charlie Hill but definitely sandier than those
>> of us on the western side of the state.  Those are all three advantages you
>> might not have.
>>
>> Good luck!
>>
>> Spencer
>>
>>> On May 15, 2015, at 15:50, Mike <meulenms at gmx.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Spencer, this is land that we are desperately trying to turn into
>>> pasture, it's always been wet, and making water go where you want it to
>>> go is tough when you have the slope of a pool table. The previous owner
>>> tried to make it work by deepening the ditch that runs through the
>>> property, thinking that would make it flow. Unfortunately, all that did
>>> was make it hold more water that now grows algae by the ton and takes
>>> forever to dry out. My next attempt will be to fill in the ditch and
>>> only leave a 2" or 3" deep channel for the water to flow through. When I
>>> walk down the ditch to my neighbors property that's all it is; a little
>>> trickle. It doesn't need to move large quantities of water.  I know
>>> there are a lot of guys on the list who have experience with this type
>>> of thing, so if you're reading this, I'm all ears.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Mike M
>>>
>>>
>>>> On 5/15/2015 2:20 PM, Spencer Yost wrote:
>>>> If it's that bad what about a sickle bar mower?   At least it will lay
>>>> flat and not windrow on you.   By pastures do you mean literally, or are
>>>> they fallow,  fenced-in fields?   If these are pastures you need more
>>>> animals!
>>>>
>>>> Seriously though, you might want to see if a neighbor has a sickle bar
>>>> mower you can test and see if you like it.
>>>>
>>>> Spencer
>>>>
>>>>> On May 15, 2015, at 11:34, Mike <meulenms at gmx.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Mowing infrequently is a huge part of the problem Charlie, and it's not
>>>>> because of not wanting to. The land is wet until around June, and I
>>>>> can't get on it to mow. I am working on solutions to get it to drain
>>>>> better, but it's a slow, trial and error process. Now that I have a 4
>>>>> wheel drive tractor, I could probably mow it sooner, but would make a
>>>>> mess in the process. Last year I couldn't mow until the grass was 6 feet
>>>>> high. I think I would have been better off leaving it alone and burning
>>>>> it off in the Spring.
>>>>>
>>>>> Mike M
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> On 5/15/2015 4:00 AM, charlie hill wrote:
>>>>>> Mike, if you are cutting it infrequently enough that you have a problem
>>>>>> with
>>>>>> large windrows of grass then a finish mower is NOT going to stand up to
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> task.
>>>>>> Or at least the ones I've been around will not.   A good bush hog with
>>>>>> good,
>>>>>> sharp
>>>>>> blades on it will mow a pasture to look almost as good as a finish
>>>>>> mower but
>>>>>> you
>>>>>> can't let it get so high or mow in wet conditions.  Also some bush hogs
>>>>>> have
>>>>>> removable
>>>>>> discharge panels so that the grass can blow out the rear or to one
>>>>>> side.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I always try to mow pastures in a pattern such that I'm cutting back
>>>>>> over
>>>>>> any windrow
>>>>>> I leave with the next pass of the mower.  In other words, if my bush
>>>>>> hog is
>>>>>> leaving
>>>>>> the windrow on the right side I work around the pasture so that the
>>>>>> right
>>>>>> side of the
>>>>>> bush hog is always toward the uncut grass.  On the next pass I'm
>>>>>> re-cutting
>>>>>> the windrow
>>>>>> along with the next portion of grass.  If you are getting a lot of
>>>>>> windrow
>>>>>> it's because
>>>>>> you are cutting more grass than the bush hog is able to disperse, just
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> same as with
>>>>>> your lawn mower.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I've never used a flail mower but a friend of mine used to use one to
>>>>>> mow
>>>>>> his mobile home park.
>>>>>> It does a fine job.  However, they are a bit more of a maintenance
>>>>>> challenge
>>>>>> than a bush hog or
>>>>>> finish mower.  Still even with a flail, if the grass is too high and
>>>>>> thick
>>>>>> it has to go somewhere and
>>>>>> it will pile up.   The key is to keep the pasture mowed more often.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> My two cents worth.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Charlie
>>>>>>
>>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>>> From: Mike
>>>>>> Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2015 10:11 PM
>>>>>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>>>>>> Subject: Re: [AT] Flail mowers
>>>>>>
>>>>>> ?? so yes on the flail or keep the hog, or go with a finish mower?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Mike M
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On 5/14/2015 8:54 PM, Spencer Yost wrote:
>>>>>>> A tough finish mower used a few more times a year than I would a bush
>>>>>>> hog
>>>>>>> does great in my 4 acres.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Spencer
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On May 14, 2015, at 20:11, Mike <meulenms at gmx.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I have about 5-7 acres of horse pasture that i mow, and have been
>>>>>>>> using
>>>>>>>> a brush hog, John Deere 513? What I don't care for is how it leaves
>>>>>>>> windrows and clumps of the taller grass. I would be interested in
>>>>>>>> getting some opinions on flail mowers.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>>>>> Mike M
>>>>>>>>
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