[AT] drill bits

[David Rotigel]

I think everyone understands 1.) what a drill bit is, 2.) what an electric drill is, and 3.) what a drill is. Just as we all understand that different people have different names for things. (My goodness, have you ever talked to someone who lives near New Orleans?)
	Dave
PS, "drill" can also be used as a verb, and may, or may not, be the term used for something that cuts (only) metal!
PPS, If I use a "brace" to turn a drill am I a motor?

On May 1, 2015, at 10:20 PM, charlie hill <charliehill at embarqmail.com> wrote:

> Good advice John.   I haven't had to buy many drills lately.
> (I'll start this old fight again.  The thing that cuts the metal
> is a drill.  The thing that turns it is a drill motor and there is
> no such thing as a drill bit)
> 
> Last time I did have to buy any that were good quality I found
> that it's hard to buy a set of various size bits (a drill index) in
> decent quality at a decent price.  The only way to get good drills
> at a good price is to buy quantities of each size you need.
> 
> Charlie
> 
> -----Original Message----- 
> From: jtchall at nc.rr.com
> Sent: Friday, May 01, 2015 5:19 PM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: Re: [AT] drill bits
> 
> I've been buying all the cutting tools for the machine where I work for the
> last 20 years.  First off, never seen a drill that wasn't HSS or carbide.
> Coatings are just that. They are intended to help disperse heat but to
> primarily keep from the cutting edge wearing down and to prevent chip
> galling in  the flutes when drilling aluminum. You most likely aren't going
> to find any decent drills locally--if you do the price will be pretty high
> most likely. Never seen a decent cutting tool from China or India. There is
> a good line of endmills from Korea. The drills I use come from USA, Japan,
> Canada, Germany and Mexico. We are a job shop so we need good quality
> tooling but don't do large production runs to justify using the extreme
> stuff. I keep the shop stocked with Nachi drills up to 1/2", Viking up to
> 1", whatever is cheapest beyond that. Take a look at MSC, Travers or Enco
> and you should be able to find some made in USA drills at a reasonable
> price. You'll want jobbers length, most likely 118 deg point, 135 split
> points are nice as well but generally found on screw machine length drills.
> Get either a bright or black oxide finish. The other coatings are eye candy
> on cheap tools to drive the cost up by making you think they will last
> longer. Coatings on production grade tooling are a different story all
> together. We use black oxide coating on our drills and we cut anything from
> plastic to 4140 pre-hard. We actually cut way more tool steel than all other
> materials combined. PTD, CLeveland, Chicago Latrobe, Dormer, Ghuring,
> Titex--all are great tools, but are going to get expensive quick.
> 
> Keep this in mind next time you are drilling. I run a general purpose 1/4"
> drill at around 1400 RPM in a rigid setup under flood coolant when drilling
> cold rolled steel. With no coolant (cutting oil keeps it lubed but not
> really cool), and using a hand drill or drill press (neither of which is
> very rigid or runs the tool true), 1400 RPM is too fast.  We can and do push
> beyond those limits if the quantity of drilling warrants speeding things up.
> 
> John Hall
> 
> -----Original Message----- 
> From: k7jdj at aol.com
> Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2015 2:58 PM
> To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
> Subject: [AT] drill bits
> 
> I wonder what type of drill bits work for antique tractor bolt removal and
> repairs?  I have been buying cheap throw away Harbor Freight titanium
> nitride coated bits but have gone back to using high speed steel bits.  Even
> the higher quality coated bits don't seem to work as good as the high speed
> steel bits.
> 
> The coated bits don't drill as well and are much easier to catch and break.
> It is getting harder to find high speed steel bits. I have a drill doctor
> but it doesn't do a good job on the really small sizes.
> 
> Would be interested in what others are using or doing that I might be
> missing.
> 
> Gary
> 
> Renton, WA
> 
> JD B
> 2 Cletrac model F's
> 1 Cletrac model W
> 
> and lots of other old iron
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at