[AT] Drawn out 1949 AC-B engine rebuild

[Cecil R Bearden]

Warren that old B is not so hard to work on.  I cut my teeth on those 50 
years ago..   Sleeves & Pistons are nto too expensive as I remember.  I 
would do a good head job, If yo are going to really pull it then I would 
take some extra time on the valve seats.   I have repaired many engines 
with a thin valve guide shim the is broached into the existing guide 
after reaming.  It really works great and lasts a long time.  They can 
also be broached to fit  worn valves.  One thing I have started doing on 
rebuilds is replacing all the valve springs if I can find new ones.   
Those old springs may have fatigued after 60+ years of use and 
oxidation.  If I can be of help please let me know.

Cecil in OKla


On 3/8/2015 6:56 PM, vschwartz1 at comcast.net wrote:
> Warren; What I have to say depends on what you intend to do with the tractor after it is repaired, how hard you will use it and how much you want to spend. I would either have a knowledgeable machine shop completely overhaul your engine block or I would find a reliably rebuilt shortblock. I would then have my engine head repaired, new valve guides, any valve seats that can not be ground have them replaced. The valves will need to be ground or replaced. If the machine shop is any good they will all so replace any weak springs. I know this would not be cheap, but, you will have a good engine when it is finished.
> Gil
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: "Mike" <meulenms at gmx.com>
> To: "Antique" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Saturday, March 7, 2015 6:56:35 PM
> Subject: Re: [AT] Drawn out 1949 AC-B engine rebuild
>
> I know nothing about AC engines, are they sleeved. If so you can buy a
> kit that has pistons, rings, sleeves, and take all the guess work out of
> it. If not you'll probably need to get it bored and get the proper over
> sized rings. You are going to need to find a machine shop to help you
> they are invaluable. Keep the questions coming, it's been a long time
> since someone did a rebuild and needed help with it. Your bottom end
> might be fine check the clearances with Plasti gauge like Jester said.
>
> Mike M
>
> On 3/7/2015 4:25 PM, Mogrits wrote:
>> About 10 yrs ago my B became very hard to start and just as hard to keep
>> running. A compression test revealed...that it had almost none!
>>
>> So one weekend while a cousin was visiting we tore down the tractor and
>> engine and found we could rock the pistons in the cylinders by hand.
>> Obviously the pistons, rings or sleeves or all the above were very worn. I
>> bagged all the bolts and photo-documented it all and still have all the
>> parts neatly arranged but have not touched it in that time. I need to get
>> off my butt and get that tractor back in the field.
>>
>> What are the lists recommendations as to how to proceed? I purchased
>> Spencers book on engine rebuilding and read it years ago, but it is still
>> outside my wheelhouse as to what is necessary and what isn't. What do I
>> check in the crank and what will need to be done there based on those
>> findings? Head/valve work while it's apart?
>>
>> I'm asking for the kick in the pants that I've missed since George Willer
>> passed.
>>
>> (BTW, this tractor has no ignition issues as the magneto was very
>> professionally rebuilt by the now passed list member/magneto whisperer
>> whose name I can't recall) He was an extremely kind and funny man. When he
>> returned the rebuilt magneto he warned me not to park the tractor outside
>> as an errant breeze might move the tractor enough to generate a spark!
>>
>> Warren
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