[AT] off topic, need help on new parts chasing truck.

[jtchall at nc.rr.com]

As long as you can get to it with the drill and don't drop the valve in the 
cylinder when you pull the keeper off I guess you could. The problem I see 
is a piece of grit probably got in there to begin with and caused it to lock 
up/gall. Once that happens on a shaft the problem snowballs until the 
damaged area gets pretty big. If it hasn't spread really big by now, one of 
3 things will happen by spinning it in a drill. The first is no change, the 
second is the problem may get better, while not fixed, and the third is it 
will finish screwing up up the valve stem and guide. If you want to try, 
whats it going to hurt? You'll eventually need a new valve and guide 
regardless, I'd never go to the trouble of taking it apart and putting it 
back together with polished old parts.

I know what you mean by not having the time to pull it down. How about just 
hiring the work done? I find myself faced with that option often when I just 
don't have time to do it myself.

If you hook one of those air adapters into the cylinder, can you hear air 
seeping by?


-----Original Message----- 
From: Cecil R Bearden
Sent: Saturday, January 31, 2015 12:00 PM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: Re: [AT] off topic, need help on new parts chasing truck.

Would it be possible to chuck the valve in a drill and spin it while
trying to get marvel oil, Kroil, Gibbs, etc to lubricate it.  I really
don't have the time and place right now to pull the head...

Cecil in OKla



On 1/31/2015 10:25 AM, Steve W. wrote:
> Cecil R Bearden wrote:
>> Just purchased a 2000 f150 4x4 Lariat supercab 5.4L with all the bells &
>> whistles.. Previous owner bought it at auction and it started running
>> rough, they took it to a reputable mechanic who replaced all spark
>> plugs, coil packs, lifter, rocker, and spring on the #7 cyl . They used
>> a camera to look at piston to determine if valve had struck piston.
>> Valve is still sticking. It will start and run fine for 5-10 seconds
>> then too rough to keep idling. sorta smooths out at 2000 rpm. I talked
>> to the mechanic who said that they spent over $1000 or work & time
>> trying to unstick the valve. The valve would unstick when they pulled it
>> up, but the cam would stick it down.  It runs fine for about 5-10
>> seconds after starting then runs so rough that it will barely move out
>> of its tracks. P.O. said that he put a new battery in it and then took
>> it for a drive to go to the detail shop and it started running rough.
>> They then took it to the mechanic.  P.O. decided not to put any more
>> money in it when told that the valve was stuck.Mechanic told me he did
>> not think valve was bent.
>>
>> I have posted on Ford truck Enthusiasts forum and only received dumb 
>> looks.
>>
>> Any suggestions??
>>
>> Cecil in OKla
>>
>>
> Either the stem is bent or the guide has an issue.
>
> Put the piston close to TDC, pop the rocker off, pull the spring and let
> the valve drop down. Spin it while watching on a camera. If it's bent it
> will show it.
> If it isn't bent it's possible the guide has an issue and it's galling
> the stem.
>
> If it's in good shape, I would probably pull the head and toss on a used
> one. 125-175 bucks plus the gaskets.
>


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