[AT] off topic, need help on new parts chasing truck.

Wrench50 at aol.com Wrench50 at aol.com
Sat Jan 31 19:29:13 PST 2015 

Cecil Not bad Its pretty straight forward Air ducts, linkage, fuel  
lines,and wire harness,etc. Its not too heavy but hard for one person to  handel.  
Del in MI
 
 
In a message dated 1/31/2015 10:14:04 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
crbearden at copper.net writes:

Del:

How hard is that intake manifold to  remove?

Cecil in OKla


On 1/31/2015 8:50 PM, Wrench50 at aol.com  wrote:
> Cecil  I have found that removing and installing that  engine without  the
> intake manifold installed makes the job much  easyer.The way the engine 
sits
> so far to the rear under the cowl makes  it very difficult to work 
on.Having
> done  this I would never  remove the cab to pull the engine. Just my 
opinion.
>    Del  from MI
>   
>   
> In a  message dated 1/31/2015 7:54:15 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
>  crbearden at copper.net writes:
>
> I think  the biggest problem  with this engine is the crappy oil that was
> used in  it.   The oil is brown and stninks like Quaker State..  Old
> Quaker  state.  It was a drug recovery.  I bought it because it  was  
white
> and non-descrip, and had more options than I would ever buy on  a  new one
> for myself. My biggest problem with tearing it down is  that I need  to
> spend about 2 weeks with some decent help to just  get one bay of my  shop
> cleaned out to get a truck in  there.  The shop has been the  repository
> of every supply,  etc since my Dad had his surgery that  eventually killed
> him  .  I have a 30. 000 lb 30 ft long  four  post truck lift to put  in
> there when it gets cleaned out.  I hate to  turn  engineering work down,
> so I have 5 consulting projects that are  in  various stages of work.  I
> also have to finish 3 years  of expenses  for my tax man.  Not to mention
> finishing some  repair on my house and  getting my Dad's Double wide
> cleaned out  and on the market.  All the  time keeping 200 acres of hay
>  and the required machinery running, and  taking care of 25 head of  cows.
> I would just like to get  something to drive for a while  until I can
> get a few things caught  up.  I know that this  economy will bust soon and
> I will have plenty  of time.   There are no reliable trustworthy
> mechanical oriented  laborers  available at a price I can afford. Shop
> time is over $100 per   hour here..   I work outside a lot and really
> prefer  it,  however, OKlahoma has had more wind the last 5 years than it
>  has had for  the last 50.  Right now we are getting the first good  rain
> we have  had in 3 months.  I spread fertilizer on all  the pastures and
> the  wheat ground yesterday and finished at 5  pm.  I will not complain
> about the rain.  When I get to work  on this truck, it probably will  get
> another engine installed.  However, the best way to do that is to  remove
> the cab.   (Ford's better idea) That will probably involve  using the
> digger  derrick truck or the trackhoe, or both in addition to the  front
>  end loader.  Then again I may just find someone interested in  the  dam
> thing and let someone else have it for what I got in it and  never  again
> will I buy a drug seizure...   I really  thought it was a  ex government
> truck.   I have at  least 7 of those in my "fleet"  and they have served
> me very  well.  In 7 years this is only the 2nd  time  I have had a  bad
> problem with a truck or tractor bought without  seeing it up  close.
> Every time I have went to look at one and  bought it it  turned to crap
> within 2 months...
>
> That is the reason  I  am so far behind.
>
> Cecil in  oKla
>
>
>
> On 1/31/2015 1:59 PM,  Indiana  Robinson wrote:
>> On Sat, Jan 31, 2015 at 12:00 PM, Cecil R   Bearden 
<crbearden at copper.net>
>>  wrote:
>>
>>> Would  it be possible to chuck the  valve in a drill and spin it while
>>>   trying to get  marvel oil, Kroil, Gibbs, etc to lubricate it.  I   
really
>>> don't have the time and place right now to pull  the  head...
>>>
>>> Cecil in  OKla
>>>
>>>
>>   There are any  number of possible ways to approach this cheaply and
>  quickly.
>> If it is just sticking from crud (technical description)  it  is sticking
> at
>> the stem near the head. Very  unlikely it is sticking at  the spring/stem
>> end. I would try  pulling the plug and spraying (take  your pick) at the
>  base
>> of the valve guide of both valves when they are  open  from jogging the
>> engine over. Put the plug back in but don't   connect the wire yet. Start
> it
>> and run it a few seconds  then shut it  off and do the spray bit again.
> Then
>>  after the second running, connect  the plug wire and try it.
>>  If that doesn't work my next move would be  to pull the rocker cover  
and
>> being sure that the piston was down press  the valves  down from the top
>> while spraying whatever up under the   seals. You should be able to tell
> from
>> the top which valve  is sticking  and if one has a weak spring (or even a
>> broken  one). If a spring is  just weak try switching it out with one  
from
> a
>> valve that is not  sticking (being sure that  neither valve drops).
>> :-)
>> It might  buy you some  time...
>> For what it is worth (flame shield up) I learned  a  very long time ago 
to
>> not put a lot of credence in what a lot  of  "mechanics" "think" might be
>>  wrong.
>>
>> My Farmall Super  MTA was bought at a  bargain price many years ago,
> knowing
>> that it had  a  "soft" knock that the dealers top mechanic was just
>> "positive" was  a  damaged timing gear. I bought it planning an engine
>>  rebuild anyway so  I wasn't too concerned. Funny thing... apparently  a
>> damaged timing  gear and a piston broken in half make the  same sound  
:-)
>> It made  a great tractor, still is. Has  the same high quality surface of
>> rust  and thin paint it had  when I found it.
>>    :-)
>>
>>
>
> ---
> This email has been  checked for viruses  by Avast antivirus  software.
>  http://www.avast.com
>
>  _______________________________________________
> AT  mailing   list
>  http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
>  _______________________________________________
> AT mailing  list
>  http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at


---
This  email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus  software.
http://www.avast.com

_______________________________________________
AT  mailing  list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at

More information about the AT mailing list