[AT] off topic, need help on new parts chasing truck.

[Cecil R Bearden]

Del:

How hard is that intake manifold to remove?

Cecil in OKla


On 1/31/2015 8:50 PM, Wrench50 at aol.com wrote:
> Cecil  I have found that removing and installing that engine without  the
> intake manifold installed makes the job much easyer.The way the engine sits
> so far to the rear under the cowl makes it very difficult to work on.Having
> done  this I would never remove the cab to pull the engine. Just my opinion.
>   Del  from MI
>   
>   
> In a message dated 1/31/2015 7:54:15 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> crbearden at copper.net writes:
>
> I think  the biggest problem with this engine is the crappy oil that was
> used in  it.  The oil is brown and stninks like Quaker State..  Old
> Quaker state.  It was a drug recovery.  I bought it because it  was white
> and non-descrip, and had more options than I would ever buy on a  new one
> for myself. My biggest problem with tearing it down is that I need  to
> spend about 2 weeks with some decent help to just get one bay of my  shop
> cleaned out to get a truck in there.  The shop has been the  repository
> of every supply, etc since my Dad had his surgery that  eventually killed
> him .  I have a 30. 000 lb 30 ft long  four  post truck lift to put in
> there when it gets cleaned out.  I hate to  turn engineering work down,
> so I have 5 consulting projects that are in  various stages of work.  I
> also have to finish 3 years of expenses  for my tax man.  Not to mention
> finishing some repair on my house and  getting my Dad's Double wide
> cleaned out and on the market.  All the  time keeping 200 acres of hay
> and the required machinery running, and  taking care of 25 head of cows.
> I would just like to get  something to drive for a while until I can
> get a few things caught  up.  I know that this economy will bust soon and
> I will have plenty  of time.  There are no reliable trustworthy
> mechanical oriented  laborers available at a price I can afford. Shop
> time is over $100 per  hour here..   I work outside a lot and really
> prefer it,  however, OKlahoma has had more wind the last 5 years than it
> has had for  the last 50.  Right now we are getting the first good rain
> we have  had in 3 months.  I spread fertilizer on all the pastures and
> the  wheat ground yesterday and finished at 5 pm.  I will not complain
> about the rain.  When I get to work on this truck, it probably will  get
> another engine installed. However, the best way to do that is to  remove
> the cab.  (Ford's better idea) That will probably involve  using the
> digger derrick truck or the trackhoe, or both in addition to the  front
> end loader.  Then again I may just find someone interested in  the dam
> thing and let someone else have it for what I got in it and never  again
> will I buy a drug seizure...   I really thought it was a  ex government
> truck.   I have at least 7 of those in my "fleet"  and they have served
> me very well.  In 7 years this is only the 2nd  time  I have had a bad
> problem with a truck or tractor bought without  seeing it up close.
> Every time I have went to look at one and  bought it it turned to crap
> within 2 months...
>
> That is the reason I  am so far behind.
>
> Cecil in oKla
>
>
>
> On 1/31/2015 1:59 PM,  Indiana Robinson wrote:
>> On Sat, Jan 31, 2015 at 12:00 PM, Cecil R  Bearden <crbearden at copper.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Would  it be possible to chuck the valve in a drill and spin it while
>>>   trying to get marvel oil, Kroil, Gibbs, etc to lubricate it.  I  really
>>> don't have the time and place right now to pull the  head...
>>>
>>> Cecil in OKla
>>>
>>>
>>   There are any number of possible ways to approach this cheaply and
> quickly.
>> If it is just sticking from crud (technical description) it  is sticking
> at
>> the stem near the head. Very unlikely it is sticking at  the spring/stem
>> end. I would try pulling the plug and spraying (take  your pick) at the
> base
>> of the valve guide of both valves when they are  open from jogging the
>> engine over. Put the plug back in but don't  connect the wire yet. Start
> it
>> and run it a few seconds then shut it  off and do the spray bit again.
> Then
>> after the second running, connect  the plug wire and try it.
>> If that doesn't work my next move would be  to pull the rocker cover and
>> being sure that the piston was down press  the valves down from the top
>> while spraying whatever up under the  seals. You should be able to tell
> from
>> the top which valve is sticking  and if one has a weak spring (or even a
>> broken one). If a spring is  just weak try switching it out with one from
> a
>> valve that is not  sticking (being sure that neither valve drops).
>> :-)
>> It might  buy you some time...
>> For what it is worth (flame shield up) I learned  a very long time ago to
>> not put a lot of credence in what a lot of  "mechanics" "think" might be
>> wrong.
>>
>> My Farmall Super  MTA was bought at a bargain price many years ago,
> knowing
>> that it had  a "soft" knock that the dealers top mechanic was just
>> "positive" was a  damaged timing gear. I bought it planning an engine
>> rebuild anyway so  I wasn't too concerned. Funny thing... apparently a
>> damaged timing  gear and a piston broken in half make the same sound  :-)
>> It made  a great tractor, still is. Has the same high quality surface of
>> rust  and thin paint it had when I found it.
>>   :-)
>>
>>
>
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