[AT] off topic, need help on new parts chasing truck.

Cecil R Bearden crbearden at copper.net
Sat Jan 31 16:47:13 PST 2015


I think the biggest problem with this engine is the crappy oil that was 
used in it.  The oil is brown and stninks like Quaker State..  Old 
Quaker state.  It was a drug recovery.  I bought it because it was white 
and non-descrip, and had more options than I would ever buy on a new one 
for myself. My biggest problem with tearing it down is that I need to 
spend about 2 weeks with some decent help to just get one bay of my shop 
cleaned out to get a truck in there.  The shop has been the repository 
of every supply, etc since my Dad had his surgery that eventually killed 
him .  I have a 30. 000 lb 30 ft long  four post truck lift to put in 
there when it gets cleaned out.  I hate to turn engineering work down, 
so I have 5 consulting projects that are in various stages of work.  I 
also have to finish 3 years of expenses for my tax man.  Not to mention 
finishing some repair on my house and getting my Dad's Double wide 
cleaned out and on the market.  All the time keeping 200 acres of hay 
and the required machinery running, and taking care of 25 head of cows. 
   I would just like to get something to drive for a while until I can 
get a few things caught up.  I know that this economy will bust soon and 
I will have plenty of time.  There are no reliable trustworthy 
mechanical oriented laborers available at a price I can afford. Shop 
time is over $100 per hour here..   I work outside a lot and really 
prefer it, however, OKlahoma has had more wind the last 5 years than it 
has had for the last 50.  Right now we are getting the first good rain 
we have had in 3 months.  I spread fertilizer on all the pastures and 
the wheat ground yesterday and finished at 5 pm.  I will not complain 
about the rain.  When I get to work on this truck, it probably will get 
another engine installed. However, the best way to do that is to remove 
the cab.  (Ford's better idea) That will probably involve using the 
digger derrick truck or the trackhoe, or both in addition to the front 
end loader.  Then again I may just find someone interested in the dam 
thing and let someone else have it for what I got in it and never again 
will I buy a drug seizure...   I really thought it was a ex government 
truck.   I have at least 7 of those in my "fleet" and they have served 
me very well.  In 7 years this is only the 2nd time  I have had a bad 
problem with a truck or tractor bought without seeing it up close.   
Every time I have went to look at one and bought it it turned to crap 
within 2 months...

That is the reason I am so far behind.

Cecil in oKla



On 1/31/2015 1:59 PM, Indiana Robinson wrote:
> On Sat, Jan 31, 2015 at 12:00 PM, Cecil R Bearden <crbearden at copper.net>
> wrote:
>
>> Would it be possible to chuck the valve in a drill and spin it while
>> trying to get marvel oil, Kroil, Gibbs, etc to lubricate it.  I really
>> don't have the time and place right now to pull the head...
>>
>> Cecil in OKla
>>
>>
> There are any number of possible ways to approach this cheaply and quickly.
> If it is just sticking from crud (technical description) it is sticking at
> the stem near the head. Very unlikely it is sticking at the spring/stem
> end. I would try pulling the plug and spraying (take your pick) at the base
> of the valve guide of both valves when they are open from jogging the
> engine over. Put the plug back in but don't connect the wire yet. Start it
> and run it a few seconds then shut it off and do the spray bit again. Then
> after the second running, connect the plug wire and try it.
> If that doesn't work my next move would be to pull the rocker cover and
> being sure that the piston was down press the valves down from the top
> while spraying whatever up under the seals. You should be able to tell from
> the top which valve is sticking and if one has a weak spring (or even a
> broken one). If a spring is just weak try switching it out with one from a
> valve that is not sticking (being sure that neither valve drops).
> :-)
> It might buy you some time...
> For what it is worth (flame shield up) I learned a very long time ago to
> not put a lot of credence in what a lot of "mechanics" "think" might be
> wrong.
>
> My Farmall Super MTA was bought at a bargain price many years ago, knowing
> that it had a "soft" knock that the dealers top mechanic was just
> "positive" was a damaged timing gear. I bought it planning an engine
> rebuild anyway so I wasn't too concerned. Funny thing... apparently a
> damaged timing gear and a piston broken in half make the same sound  :-)
> It made a great tractor, still is. Has the same high quality surface of
> rust and thin paint it had when I found it.
> :-)
>
>


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