[AT] Chain saw cutting issues

Stephen Offiler soffiler at gmail.com
Thu Jan 22 05:24:39 PST 2015


THANK YOU farmer!  Your experience, plus this link, just taught me a bunch
of things about chainsaws that I didn't know I didn't know!

Steve O.

On Thu, Jan 22, 2015 at 6:35 AM, Indiana Robinson <robinson46176 at gmail.com>
wrote:

> AARRRRRHGGGGHHHH!!!!!!
> I forgot to paste in the link... Sorry.
> http://www.fs.fed.us/t-d/pubs/htmlpubs/htm06672805/page03.htm
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jan 22, 2015 at 6:34 AM, Indiana Robinson <robinson46176 at gmail.com
> >
> wrote:
>
> > Here is a chapter out of a US Forest Service Manual that appears to have
> > generally good information other than apparently mixing up the pictures
> of
> > chain cutter type by reversing the chipper cutter and the chisel cutter
> > image.
> > About a third of the way down the page is an illustration of some of the
> > bar issues I was talking about. I hope it's helpful.
> > I used to have a one page flyer with similar bar information that we
> would
> > drop in the bag with sharpened chains going out but I can't find one
> right
> > now.
> >
> > As always chainsaw rule # 1 is still "DO NOT BLEED!"
> > :-)
> >
> >
> >
> > On Thu, Jan 22, 2015 at 12:37 AM, Cecil R Bearden <crbearden at copper.net>
> > wrote:
> >
> >> Farmer I think you it the nail right on the head!
> >> There are closers to close up the bar groove if it gets worn too wide
> >> and the chain rolls when cutting.
> >> Several years ago I was using a chainsaw and did not have a file or my
> >> 12V grinder to sharpen the chain when I hit a barb wire when cutting a
> >> tree out of the fence.  However, I did have my Dewalt cordless grinder
> >> with a thin cutoff blade.  I sharpened the chain with that and have used
> >> it ever since for sharpening chains.  I will say that I go thru chains
> >> more quickly as it is hard to keep from grinding too much, but it only
> >> takes about 2 minutes to sharpen the entire chain.  I also grind down
> >> the depth tooth more than recommended to make it cut quicker.  I use a
> >> high horsepower saw with a shorter blade to allow it to cut out trees &
> >> brush in fence rows.  Since I am always cutting out of position, I don't
> >> want to be in that position very long.   I have one of those Harbor
> >> Freight chainsaw sharpeners and it works very well.  I got it on sale
> >> for less than $30....   I try to sharpen my chains on that before I go
> >> out, but I hit a lot of metal and rocks and dirt...  I try to buy those
> >> cheaper Poulan refurbished saws and really have good luck with them for
> >> the price.
> >>
> >> Cecil in OKla
> >>
> >>
> >> On 1/21/2015 11:13 PM, Indiana Robinson wrote:
> >> > As Big-dog says it is most likely the bar instead of the chain. If you
> >> have
> >> > a new chain in an older bar your drive teeth on your chain may be
> >> riding on
> >> > the bottom of the bar groove. Make sure that the chain is only riding
> on
> >> > the edge of the bar rails. It is possible to mill the bottom of the
> bar
> >> > deeper but it is not worth it unless you already have the tools on
> hand.
> >> > Standard short bars are cheap. Check the bar rails all around with a
> >> good
> >> > small square. They both must be the same height. Unless you have
> >> something
> >> > like one of those silly banana bars you should make a habit of
> flipping
> >> > your bar over each time you have it off so that the rails and the
> >> contact
> >> > points on the chain will wear evenly. It is also sometimes necessary
> to
> >> > slightly tighten the width of the bar channel as it can wear too wide
> to
> >> > guide well.
> >> > I seriously doubt that your problem is the chain teeth unless
> something
> >> > serious has happened to them. Chain sharpening is normally pretty
> >> forgiving
> >> > as long as you get the basics. Bar fit on the other hand...
> >> > I have professionally sharpened thousands of chainsaw chains for over
> 40
> >> > years. I really always preferred to get the bar and chain both so I
> >> could
> >> > check them for fit together. There is a lot more to a chainsaw than
> >> teeth
> >> > and a motor.  :-)
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > On Wed, Jan 21, 2015 at 11:14 PM, Vaughn Miller <vemiller at gmail.com>
> >> wrote:
> >> >
> >> >> Almost certainly an improperly sharpened chain.  The cutters on each
> >> side
> >> >> should be equal length.  I keep a dial caliper handy when sharpening
> >> chains
> >> >> to check my work.
> >> >>
> >> >> Vaughn
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>> On Jan 21, 2015, at 9:57 PM, David Trompower <flywelder at live.com>
> >> wrote:
> >> >>>
> >> >>> I have a [U]Poulan  18 inch classic, chain saw.   [/U]    and had it
> >> for
> >> >> years.
> >> >>> Today though, I have issues with the chain blade.
> >> >>>
> >> >>> the chain is but 2 months old.  it now will only cut the soft outer
> >> wood
> >> >> of a log and stops when it reaches the hard wood of the center of a
> >> log. It
> >> >> is nut cutting straight through a log.  Instead, it is cutting in
> such
> >> a
> >> >> way, that by the time the blade reaches the hard wood...  my left
> hand
> >> is
> >> >> in the air and my right ( which is operating the throttle)  is down,
> >> and
> >> >> the blade has cut a curve? a curve that  heads in the direction of my
> >> left
> >> >> leg.
> >> >>> SO I sharpened the blade teeth and filed down the  blade depth gauge
> >> >> just a bit...( using a Oregon,sharpening device to do so).
> >> >>> [U]I am [/U]getting short chips  off the blade but the saw shows no
> >> >> improvement in cutting abilities and continues to  cut a curve . ???
> >> >>> I have resharpened  and resharpened and even sharpened only the left
> >> >> cutters,  No improvement.
> >> >>> then only the right cutters, and no improvement?
> >> >>> maybe I need to sharpen yet some more the teeth on one side more
> than
> >> >> the other?,.... but which...the left cutters or the right?
> >> >>> And it seems that once the blade reaches the hard center wood of a
> >> log,
> >> >> the only way I can get and  more shavings is to rock the saw  ( tilt
> it
> >> >> left and right in a rhythm,)  but it cuts a deeper groove towards my
> >> left
> >> >> leg.
> >> >>> Tell me what is causing this curved cut issue ? and how do I correct
> >> it?
> >> >>> and why the cutting stops when I reach the hard wood in the center
> of
> >> a
> >> >> log?
> >> >>> R. David
> >> >>>
> >> >>>
> >> >>>
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> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >>
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> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > --
> >
> > Francis Robinson
> > aka "farmer"
> > Central Indiana USA
> > robinson46176 at gmail.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> --
>
> Francis Robinson
> aka "farmer"
> Central Indiana USA
> robinson46176 at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
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