[AT] Chain saw cutting issues

Indiana Robinson robinson46176 at gmail.com
Thu Jan 22 03:35:43 PST 2015


AARRRRRHGGGGHHHH!!!!!!
I forgot to paste in the link... Sorry.
http://www.fs.fed.us/t-d/pubs/htmlpubs/htm06672805/page03.htm



On Thu, Jan 22, 2015 at 6:34 AM, Indiana Robinson <robinson46176 at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Here is a chapter out of a US Forest Service Manual that appears to have
> generally good information other than apparently mixing up the pictures of
> chain cutter type by reversing the chipper cutter and the chisel cutter
> image.
> About a third of the way down the page is an illustration of some of the
> bar issues I was talking about. I hope it's helpful.
> I used to have a one page flyer with similar bar information that we would
> drop in the bag with sharpened chains going out but I can't find one right
> now.
>
> As always chainsaw rule # 1 is still "DO NOT BLEED!"
> :-)
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jan 22, 2015 at 12:37 AM, Cecil R Bearden <crbearden at copper.net>
> wrote:
>
>> Farmer I think you it the nail right on the head!
>> There are closers to close up the bar groove if it gets worn too wide
>> and the chain rolls when cutting.
>> Several years ago I was using a chainsaw and did not have a file or my
>> 12V grinder to sharpen the chain when I hit a barb wire when cutting a
>> tree out of the fence.  However, I did have my Dewalt cordless grinder
>> with a thin cutoff blade.  I sharpened the chain with that and have used
>> it ever since for sharpening chains.  I will say that I go thru chains
>> more quickly as it is hard to keep from grinding too much, but it only
>> takes about 2 minutes to sharpen the entire chain.  I also grind down
>> the depth tooth more than recommended to make it cut quicker.  I use a
>> high horsepower saw with a shorter blade to allow it to cut out trees &
>> brush in fence rows.  Since I am always cutting out of position, I don't
>> want to be in that position very long.   I have one of those Harbor
>> Freight chainsaw sharpeners and it works very well.  I got it on sale
>> for less than $30....   I try to sharpen my chains on that before I go
>> out, but I hit a lot of metal and rocks and dirt...  I try to buy those
>> cheaper Poulan refurbished saws and really have good luck with them for
>> the price.
>>
>> Cecil in OKla
>>
>>
>> On 1/21/2015 11:13 PM, Indiana Robinson wrote:
>> > As Big-dog says it is most likely the bar instead of the chain. If you
>> have
>> > a new chain in an older bar your drive teeth on your chain may be
>> riding on
>> > the bottom of the bar groove. Make sure that the chain is only riding on
>> > the edge of the bar rails. It is possible to mill the bottom of the bar
>> > deeper but it is not worth it unless you already have the tools on hand.
>> > Standard short bars are cheap. Check the bar rails all around with a
>> good
>> > small square. They both must be the same height. Unless you have
>> something
>> > like one of those silly banana bars you should make a habit of flipping
>> > your bar over each time you have it off so that the rails and the
>> contact
>> > points on the chain will wear evenly. It is also sometimes necessary to
>> > slightly tighten the width of the bar channel as it can wear too wide to
>> > guide well.
>> > I seriously doubt that your problem is the chain teeth unless something
>> > serious has happened to them. Chain sharpening is normally pretty
>> forgiving
>> > as long as you get the basics. Bar fit on the other hand...
>> > I have professionally sharpened thousands of chainsaw chains for over 40
>> > years. I really always preferred to get the bar and chain both so I
>> could
>> > check them for fit together. There is a lot more to a chainsaw than
>> teeth
>> > and a motor.  :-)
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > On Wed, Jan 21, 2015 at 11:14 PM, Vaughn Miller <vemiller at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>> >
>> >> Almost certainly an improperly sharpened chain.  The cutters on each
>> side
>> >> should be equal length.  I keep a dial caliper handy when sharpening
>> chains
>> >> to check my work.
>> >>
>> >> Vaughn
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>> On Jan 21, 2015, at 9:57 PM, David Trompower <flywelder at live.com>
>> wrote:
>> >>>
>> >>> I have a [U]Poulan  18 inch classic, chain saw.   [/U]    and had it
>> for
>> >> years.
>> >>> Today though, I have issues with the chain blade.
>> >>>
>> >>> the chain is but 2 months old.  it now will only cut the soft outer
>> wood
>> >> of a log and stops when it reaches the hard wood of the center of a
>> log. It
>> >> is nut cutting straight through a log.  Instead, it is cutting in such
>> a
>> >> way, that by the time the blade reaches the hard wood...  my left hand
>> is
>> >> in the air and my right ( which is operating the throttle)  is down,
>> and
>> >> the blade has cut a curve? a curve that  heads in the direction of my
>> left
>> >> leg.
>> >>> SO I sharpened the blade teeth and filed down the  blade depth gauge
>> >> just a bit...( using a Oregon,sharpening device to do so).
>> >>> [U]I am [/U]getting short chips  off the blade but the saw shows no
>> >> improvement in cutting abilities and continues to  cut a curve . ???
>> >>> I have resharpened  and resharpened and even sharpened only the left
>> >> cutters,  No improvement.
>> >>> then only the right cutters, and no improvement?
>> >>> maybe I need to sharpen yet some more the teeth on one side more than
>> >> the other?,.... but which...the left cutters or the right?
>> >>> And it seems that once the blade reaches the hard center wood of a
>> log,
>> >> the only way I can get and  more shavings is to rock the saw  ( tilt it
>> >> left and right in a rhythm,)  but it cuts a deeper groove towards my
>> left
>> >> leg.
>> >>> Tell me what is causing this curved cut issue ? and how do I correct
>> it?
>> >>> and why the cutting stops when I reach the hard wood in the center of
>> a
>> >> log?
>> >>> R. David
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
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>> >
>>
>>
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>
>
>
> --
> --
>
> Francis Robinson
> aka "farmer"
> Central Indiana USA
> robinson46176 at gmail.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>


-- 
-- 

Francis Robinson
aka "farmer"
Central Indiana USA
robinson46176 at gmail.com



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