[AT] Chain saw cutting issues

[Cecil R Bearden]

Farmer I think you it the nail right on the head!
There are closers to close up the bar groove if it gets worn too wide 
and the chain rolls when cutting.
Several years ago I was using a chainsaw and did not have a file or my 
12V grinder to sharpen the chain when I hit a barb wire when cutting a 
tree out of the fence.  However, I did have my Dewalt cordless grinder 
with a thin cutoff blade.  I sharpened the chain with that and have used 
it ever since for sharpening chains.  I will say that I go thru chains 
more quickly as it is hard to keep from grinding too much, but it only 
takes about 2 minutes to sharpen the entire chain.  I also grind down 
the depth tooth more than recommended to make it cut quicker.  I use a 
high horsepower saw with a shorter blade to allow it to cut out trees & 
brush in fence rows.  Since I am always cutting out of position, I don't 
want to be in that position very long.   I have one of those Harbor 
Freight chainsaw sharpeners and it works very well.  I got it on sale 
for less than $30....   I try to sharpen my chains on that before I go 
out, but I hit a lot of metal and rocks and dirt...  I try to buy those 
cheaper Poulan refurbished saws and really have good luck with them for 
the price.

Cecil in OKla


On 1/21/2015 11:13 PM, Indiana Robinson wrote:
> As Big-dog says it is most likely the bar instead of the chain. If you have
> a new chain in an older bar your drive teeth on your chain may be riding on
> the bottom of the bar groove. Make sure that the chain is only riding on
> the edge of the bar rails. It is possible to mill the bottom of the bar
> deeper but it is not worth it unless you already have the tools on hand.
> Standard short bars are cheap. Check the bar rails all around with a good
> small square. They both must be the same height. Unless you have something
> like one of those silly banana bars you should make a habit of flipping
> your bar over each time you have it off so that the rails and the contact
> points on the chain will wear evenly. It is also sometimes necessary to
> slightly tighten the width of the bar channel as it can wear too wide to
> guide well.
> I seriously doubt that your problem is the chain teeth unless something
> serious has happened to them. Chain sharpening is normally pretty forgiving
> as long as you get the basics. Bar fit on the other hand...
> I have professionally sharpened thousands of chainsaw chains for over 40
> years. I really always preferred to get the bar and chain both so I could
> check them for fit together. There is a lot more to a chainsaw than teeth
> and a motor.  :-)
>
>
>
> On Wed, Jan 21, 2015 at 11:14 PM, Vaughn Miller <vemiller at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Almost certainly an improperly sharpened chain.  The cutters on each side
>> should be equal length.  I keep a dial caliper handy when sharpening chains
>> to check my work.
>>
>> Vaughn
>>
>>
>>> On Jan 21, 2015, at 9:57 PM, David Trompower <flywelder at live.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> I have a [U]Poulan  18 inch classic, chain saw.   [/U]    and had it for
>> years.
>>> Today though, I have issues with the chain blade.
>>>
>>> the chain is but 2 months old.  it now will only cut the soft outer wood
>> of a log and stops when it reaches the hard wood of the center of a log. It
>> is nut cutting straight through a log.  Instead, it is cutting in such a
>> way, that by the time the blade reaches the hard wood...  my left hand is
>> in the air and my right ( which is operating the throttle)  is down, and
>> the blade has cut a curve? a curve that  heads in the direction of my left
>> leg.
>>> SO I sharpened the blade teeth and filed down the  blade depth gauge
>> just a bit...( using a Oregon,sharpening device to do so).
>>> [U]I am [/U]getting short chips  off the blade but the saw shows no
>> improvement in cutting abilities and continues to  cut a curve . ???
>>> I have resharpened  and resharpened and even sharpened only the left
>> cutters,  No improvement.
>>> then only the right cutters, and no improvement?
>>> maybe I need to sharpen yet some more the teeth on one side more than
>> the other?,.... but which...the left cutters or the right?
>>> And it seems that once the blade reaches the hard center wood of a log,
>> the only way I can get and  more shavings is to rock the saw  ( tilt it
>> left and right in a rhythm,)  but it cuts a deeper groove towards my left
>> leg.
>>> Tell me what is causing this curved cut issue ? and how do I correct it?
>>> and why the cutting stops when I reach the hard wood in the center of a
>> log?
>>> R. David
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> AT mailing list
>>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>> _______________________________________________
>> AT mailing list
>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>>
>
>


---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
http://www.avast.com