[AT] Out with the new, in with the old

Mike meulenms at gmx.com
Sat Jan 17 08:13:39 PST 2015


I've heard some stories regarding the new tier IV diesel engines as 
well. Apparently if a sensor tells the engine that the whatchamacallit 
is plugging up, you need to run it at full throttle for an hour or so 
before you can use the machine again. How's that for green?

Mike M

On 1/17/2015 10:28 AM, rlgoss at twc.com wrote:
> Get some "00" Snapper grease, Herb. We used it at the dealership to prevent bearing burn-out on some particular hydrostatic drives that had concentric I/O shafts.
>
> I owned a Kubota for a number of years and learned the lesson to never buy one again.  It's the only company I know that will change specs on a component just enough so a replacement item of the same part number will not fit in place of the original -- and then not tell anyone about it or claim it didn't happen!  If you keep a tractor long enough, you will run into that again and again.
>
>
> Larry
> ---- Herb Metz <metz-h.b at comcast.net> wrote:
>> Recently was at local Kubota (only tractor dealer within thirty miles),
>> looking for some thick gear oil/grease for my old leaky Troybilt tillers.
>> Some Kubota owner from half hour away was hoping for some 'magic whatever
>> gizmo' that would bypass all safeties so he could retrieve his tractor from
>> "out in the trees".  Some safety was preventing his starting the motor; he
>> would need a sizeable whatever to pull his dead tractor back to the shed,
>> etc.  This was the seventh time this had occurred since he bought the
>> tractor new four years ago.  He wasn't mad, but he was understandably upset
>> about repeatedly being in such a helpless situation.
>> Not picking on Kubota; the other companies probably have similar problems.
>> Herb(GA)
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: jtchall at nc.rr.com
>> Sent: Saturday, January 17, 2015 8:17 AM
>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>> Subject: Re: [AT] Out with the new, in with the old
>>
>> In some cases its good to be able to change out entire units as opposed to
>> rebuilding the old one. If the cost of the new unit is only slightly more
>> than the rebuild, you'll be money ahead and should have better quality too.
>> Small 2 cycle carburetors are a good example of this. We've learned to price
>> a kit vs. a new carb before determining which way to go. The downside to
>> this practice is on any given machine, there tend to be problems unique to
>> that model. Often the problems are simple and cheap to fix, but are hard to
>> identify. When we develop a culture of wholesale changing units, the
>> detective work to find the problem behind the problem is lost. Once the
>> machine gets old and is not owned by someone using it a lot that can justify
>> large repair bills, it becomes not worth fixing. I just don't see a lot of
>> machinery and automobiles made today having as long of service life as our
>> old iron. Don't believe me, stop by your local Ford, GM, or Dodge dealer and
>> see if they even have parts list access to a 25 or 30 year old truck.
>>
>> The boss bought a new to us forklift a couple months ago. We had a 30 year
>> old Cat in great shape but it had an oil leak that was going to cost more to
>> fix than the machine was worth. He traded it in a refurbished Clark.
>> Evidently that thing has more electronics than a new car. Dealer has been
>> out 6-8 times in 2 months trying to get it to run correctly. I can't
>> understand for the life of me why a forklift needs anything other than
>> bore-bones mechanical technology. The Cat we got rid of had old school
>> gauges and a back up alarm tied into the shifter. It was simple and it
>> worked. The Clark has a bunch of digital gauges and even some sort of alarm
>> that triggers the horn if it isn't shut off in the correct sequence.  All
>> that crap does is cause headaches and cause us to be down a machine.
>>
>> This morning I've got to rebuild the 2 master cylinders on a 42 year old IH
>> tractor. It was $70 for the kits or $200 for new master cylinders. I'm
>> hoping the pistons and shafts aren't worn too badly so that new wear items
>> will solve my problem.
>> If the parts come today, I've also got to put a kit in the brake
>> equalizer--$85 vs. a few hundred.
>>
>> John Hall
>>
>>
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