[AT] you've got to be kidding me!

[charlie hill]

No I didn't forget you are a machinist.  I just thought my suggestion
sounded better that saying "why the hell don't you just fix it"  LOL.
I know you'll figure it out.

Charlie

-----Original Message----- 
From: jtchall at nc.rr.com
Sent: Sunday, February 22, 2015 7:45 PM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: Re: [AT] you've got to be kidding me!

Sure I could( I'm a machinist remember), but buying a new shaft is way
easier. It shouldn't take our welder 5 minutes to weld up the hole in the
carb. Until yesterday my plan was just to put the new kit and shaft in the
old carb. Once I found out how bad it was worn, I changed gears and focused
on using the "junk" carb. To begin I was only going to use the top half.
Then I found the bottom half has a brass ring that is pressed in place for
the venturi to seat on. Its loose and wobbling around--leaking air. So I
cleaned up the bottom half of the junk carb and sprayed some paint on it. By
the way, that thin brass ring is $70 from IH.

Without access to machine shop equipment I'd own a lot less old iron and
would be making payments on one or two new items instead! I often have to
make the call of whether to buy new, make new, or repair the old part. When
working on the brakes on this tractor, I made a new pedal shaft, well worth
the $60 I saved. The brake equalizer uses eccentric bolts for adjustment.
At $33 each that’s a great price given the amount of work one would have to
do to make one. However, my welder buddy welded them up in 10 minutes and I
ground them back down in 15. I needed new bushings for the pedals and
shafts. IH wanted almost $70 for one. I bought bushings from McMaster and
modified the lengths as needed.

John



-----Original Message----- 
From: charlie hill
Sent: Sunday, February 22, 2015 6:54 PM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: Re: [AT] you've got to be kidding me!

John,  If you haven't already found this it might help.

http://www.carbkitsource.com/carbs/numbers/Marvel-Schebler/index.html

good luck.  I've been down the same road but got luckier than it appears you
are.

Is it possible that you could drill out the throttle shaft holes in the
upper body
and press fit some bronze bushings in the bore and then fashion something
akin to a speedy sleeve over the worn area of your throttle shaft?  Maybe
something
like some thin wall tubing or possibly braze the shaft and turn it back
down?

Charlie

-----Original Message----- 
From: jtchall at nc.rr.com
Sent: Sunday, February 22, 2015 1:31 PM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: Re: [AT] you've got to be kidding me!

Nope, I searched the planet over guys,basic kits with no throttle shaft or
venturi are common. IH is the only one that had it listed with a throttle
shaft--way too expensive as is about anything they sell. There are a
gazillion TSX carbs out there, all configured differently. The one I had to
have is for a 959, if all I needed was a gasket, needle and seat, not a
problem. Bates is the only place I found with one in stock and its not on
his website. There were 2 different Marvel carbs for this machine, and the
kits don't interchange. The listing they have online is for the wrong carb.
He sent me the 2nd kit  after he realized there listing only was for one
carb and does not fit both. I even ran into a little trouble sourcing a
venturi, but there are a couple of folks that carry those.  You really need
to go by the tag on the carb. I've even got the old Marvel and Zenith books,
they weren't much help other than determining this one is an oddball.


Life gets real fun when there is no tag on the carb. It took a couple tries
and some photos to figure out what carb was on my dumptruck. As my luck
would have it, the carb shop that supplied the parts said it was the least
used for that application.

John



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