[AT] Welding Advice

Charlie V 1cdevill at gmail.com
Wed Feb 11 08:35:41 PST 2015


Thank you for an informative, knowledgeable, and well thought out post.
Enjoyed the read.  Good topic all around.

On the sound of the buzz, here is a comparison.

Frequently on WSM when Eddie Stubb plays old wax 78 rpm records he likes to
refer to the constant crackle and scratch noise as none other than:

"The bacon frying."

Charlie V

On Wed, Feb 11, 2015 at 5:27 AM, Mike Reggie <mrreg_99 at hotmail.com> wrote:

>
>
>
>  Hi all on the list, looong time no reply, I know, but in all honesty, I
> really do lurk almost every day still, since 1999 and I like to reply when
> I feel I have something positive to contribute. That would be mostly in the
> metalworking/welding/machining area. As is almost always the case, I agree
> with everything said on this thread from everyone, and I can only think of
> a couple things to add.
>
>   When stick welding, as far as the sound and characteristics  go, there
> should be some differences between the different electrodes, the mild steel
> electrodes such as the 6010, 6011, will burn quite violently as they are a
> deep penetrating fast freezing rod for making root passes and out of
> position work [originally for use in pipeline work, but very useful in many
> other areas] and will sound like sparklers, very crackly,  and consume at a
> higher rate of speed. Also in the mild steel family are the 6013 and 7014,
> will be the mainstay nowadays, and they too will crackle a bit, and would
> be used more for thin gauge materials, decorative and ornamental work and
> sheet metal.   Then there are the low hydrogen electrodes, anything that
> ends in 16 or nowadays for most commercial purposes 18, most commonly 7018.
> These should have a very soft "crumbly" sort of sound with a very smooth
> transfer with good wet-out.
>
>  All of these are the mainstream, most commonly used rods available almost
> everywhere welding supplies are sold, and if you can get comfortable using
> these rods, you will have no problem with almost any type of stick welding
> task, pay special attention to the 7018, it will require a certain amount
> of technique, but it really is the most useful and versatile of all, if you
> can get comfortable with this rod in all positions, you will have hit the
> AHH HAA moment in stick welding, no kidding. Also, all of these rods will
> work on AC or DC with the exception of the 6010, so it wont matter if you
> are using a buzz box or a top of the line pro model machine, and in MOST
> cases, are also usable in either polarity.
>
>    The bacon sizzling sound is usually associated with the MIG short
> circuit process, and I do think it is a good way to get a gauge on how you
> are doing, conversely, you would not want to hear that sound if you are MIG
> welding in a spray transfer mode. Also, the sound will change if you are
> using a flux core wire as opposed to a solid wire, and an argon rich
> shielding gas as opposed to a straight CO2 shielding gas, the later
> producing a more violent arc.   Of all the processes mentioned, MIG in
> short circuit is the easiest most user friendly and with the refinements in
> both solid and flux cored wires it is increasingly more versatile.    As
> most have said, any type of course or training is helpful, but, as the
> saying goes,  "how does one get to the Met? Practice, lots and lots of
> practice". There is no substitute for time spent under the helmet, I can
> personally attest to this as I am self taught in all my welding and
> machining skills, and though I use all forms of stick, M!
>  IG, TIG and oxy-fuel processes on an almost daily basis for many years
> now, I discover new things all the time, especially with stick and TIG.
>   Also as has been mentioned, do watch Jody's channel on You Tube, welding
> tips and tricks, pay special attention to him not so much when he is
> showing an arc shot, but when he's narrating on a setup or has focused the
> camera on himself and is walking you through a setup, if you think you may
> have missed something, pause the video and go back, I watch him all the
> time, and I think he generally releases a new video every Tuesday night.
> Along the same lines, as some of you know, I am in the
> welding/machining/metal equipment repair business, and I also have a You
> Tube channel that I show some of the jobs I do, both in the shop and some
> field work. I don't necessarily give a how to, but I do thoroughly [or in
> most cases, overly] narrate what I am doing and how and by what process I
> am using to get each job done. It is a mix of welding!
>  , machining,  line boring and general metalworking repairs of all types.
> If anyone would care to see, my channel is at
> https://www.youtube.com/user/phuzzz1   As I explain here and in my
> introduction video, I am self taught and by no means an expert at anything,
> but if I can be of any help, please don't hesitate to ask, and I'll do my
> best to provide an answer    I'd like to also remind everyone that just as
> there was the discussion on the carbon arc welding which is almost all but
> forgotten, so too has oxy-fuel welding and even brazing seemingly fallen
> out of most mainstream use, I believe it is a very useful and worthy
> process to know especially when working on antique tractors, I still use it
> often for almost all cast iron repairs as I don't think arc welding of cast
> iron is a good idea.   It was so nice to see a topic that I could jump in
> on, and it's always nice to see the familiar names and the topics discussed
> on this list, there is an incredible amount of knowledge, information, and
> of course civility here and I have been enjoying read!
>  ing it for years now.    All the best to everyone ........ Mike
>
>
> > > On Feb 9, 2015, at 11:55 AM, Ray Trimble <farmall_1947 at yahoo.com>
> wrote:
> > >
> > > Many of you on the list are welder, I have never welded and in my late
> 60's, I thought you could give me
> > > some pointers. My object is to learn something new and do some light
> welding, I would never do a job that
> > > would be dangerout if the weld failed.
> > >
> > > What would be the best to start out on arc, mig, tig, etc
> > > What would give me the most bang to the buck?
> > >
> > > I have seen this rule on other stuff, that the cheapper a thing is, it
> takes more exsperance to make it work,
> > > is this true in welding?
> > >
> > > Please fill in on other things I need to know>
> > >
> > > Ray
> > > farmall h
> > > farmall cub
> > > Jd b
> > > jb mt
> > > ac d12
> > > massy 75
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > AT mailing list
> > > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
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>
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