[AT] A favorite tractor attachment

Spencer Yost yostsw at atis.net
Tue Feb 3 19:03:33 PST 2015


I don't know what I am more jealous of

1.  The time to do it
2. The welding skills 
3. Having such a cool implement
4. Having an implement with paint on it

Nicely done!

Spencer

> On Feb 2, 2015, at 21:16, Indiana Robinson <robinson46176 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Sometimes in spite of my best efforts something goes right...
> Maybe over 20 years ago I made a 3 point lift fork attachment (picture link
> below) for moving pallets around so I could move stuff around on pallets
> instead of constantly loading and unloading stuff. I also used to move big
> round bales with it by using a big hook with a chain over the top to hold
> the bales forward.
> I was looking for some extra strong materials to use instead of the angle
> iron like the farm store forks use. Maybe a decade earlier I had bought a
> well worn John Deere pull type plow just to get the like new set of
> complete coulter assemblies someone had put on it. I bought the whole plow
> for less than 1/3rd the cost of new coulters. I had torn the plow apart and
> saved most of the steel and scrapped the tired old bases. I used two of the
> plow beams for the forks and they are remarkably tough. I have had some
> horrendous loads on that thing. Only a couple of pieces did not come from
> that John Deere plow. The spacer at the top-link was cut from an old piston
> pin from a truck engine. The pipe that sits across near the bottom is some
> common double strength pipe I had and it is there so I can drop the bucket
> from my loader and mount the forks to the loader with the bucket pins. The
> small steel pieces that add support to the pipe were just steel from
> "something". Everything else was from the plow frame. The third picture
> shows where I used the thick plow shank gussets to brace the forks to the
> frame.
> I have some "accessories" for it and want to make some more. I made it so
> that the bolt holes in both forks line up. I have a pallet (Need to make
> some more) that I can put on it and stick a pin in on each side and lock it
> on. I have a 10' horse lot drag that has a frame on top of it so I can back
> into it and lift the whole thing with the forks. I tow it with a couple of
> chains but can back the forks in and lift it to carry it from lot to lot
> and just drop it and start dragging. I have a heavy piece of "I" beam that
> I want to weld a couple of short pieces of 2" x 4"  steel tube onto so I
> can back the forks into them and pin it in place so I can do some light
> grading on the drives. Sort of like a Farmall Fast Hitch but backward.
> That steel tube is the right size to fit a common dimension 2 x 4 and I
> want to cut some short pieces of it to use as sockets on a few other
> implements I have. I also want to make a "sloppy stuff" scraper for it
> using half of an 18.4x34 tire I used to keep as a spare for my Deere 4020.
> It spends a lot of time on my TO-20 Ferguson because it is so maneuverable
> but after I get one of my 8N Fords going this summer I will likely move it
> to it so that I have the "Position Control to make it a bit easier to
> maintain lift height.
> I hope this is making sense, we are adjusting some meds.
> :-)
> https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/110429518110019188498/albums/5409917730989419633/6110699768222850738?pid=6110699768222850738&oid=110429518110019188498
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> -- 
> 
> Francis Robinson
> aka "farmer"
> Central Indiana USA
> robinson46176 at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at




More information about the AT mailing list