[AT] off topic, need help on new parts chasing truck.

[Thomas Mehrkam]

The head needs to come off.

At that point if the problem is not obvious either get another head for it or take it to a good machine shop that can check it out.  You might be able to salvage the head and R&R the valve.


Or just get another head.

Is the head Aluminum.  My 2001 is.



________________________________
 From: "vschwartz1 at comcast.net" <vschwartz1 at comcast.net>
To: Antique <at at lists.antique-tractor.com> 
Sent: Sunday, February 1, 2015 12:04 PM
Subject: Re: [AT] off topic, need help on new parts chasing truck.
 

Cecil; I have been following this drug transporter truck problem since it came to life. From your description I would venture to say this engine has been run hot resulting in a warped head which has resulted in the valve problem. The easiest cure is to replace the head from any supply source. I do not like junk yards unless the part comes from a wreck. I draw the conclusions because of your observation of the vehicles current oil. Brown oil that stinks as you describe indicates a coolant leak into the oil. All of this is only a guess on my part but I think that valve problem is a result rather than a cause. 
Gil 
----- Original Message -----

From: "Ralph Goff" <alfg at sasktel.net> 
To: "Antique" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com> 
Sent: Saturday, January 31, 2015 8:56:36 AM 
Subject: Re: [AT] off topic, need help on new parts chasing truck. 

On 1/30/2015 10:34 PM, Cecil R Bearden wrote: 
> Just purchased a 2000 f150 4x4 Lariat supercab 5.4L with all the bells & 
> whistles.. Previous owner bought it at auction and it started running 
> rough, they took it to a reputable mechanic who replaced all spark 
> plugs, coil packs, lifter, rocker, and spring on the #7 cyl . They used 
> a camera to look at piston to determine if valve had struck piston. 
> Valve is still sticking. It will start and run fine for 5-10 seconds 
> then too rough to keep idling. sorta smooths out at 2000 rpm. I talked 
> to the mechanic who said that they spent over $1000 or work & time 
> trying to unstick the valve. The valve would unstick when they pulled it 
> up, but the cam would stick it down. It runs fine for about 5-10 
> seconds after starting then runs so rough that it will barely move out 
> of its tracks. P.O. said that he put a new battery in it and then took 
> it for a drive to go to the detail shop and it started running rough. 
> They then took it to the mechanic. P.O. decided not to put any more 
> money in it when told that the valve was stuck.Mechanic told me he did 
> not think valve was bent. 
> 
> I have posted on Ford truck Enthusiasts forum and only received dumb looks. 
> 
> Any suggestions?? 
> 
> Cecil in OKla 
So Ford still has sticking valves. I've been fighting the same problem 
in my 76 year old Ford flathead in the 39 Deluxe. 
The problem was 30 some years of inactivity. The flathead is easy to get 
at the valves through the spark plug holes and 
I was able to spray some penetrating oil that ran down the stems. After 
soaking I was able to use a hammer and punch 
to tap the valve closed. Repeated many many times and finally I think I 
have the old Ford running on all 8. 
Now for Ford number two. 
I guess it is no help to you Cecil but it just struck me as quite a 
co-incidence . 

Ralph in Sask. 


> 

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