[AT] Need help troubleshooting engine/compressor
Bo Hinch
bohinch at gmail.com
Fri Aug 14 11:52:37 PDT 2015
Thanks , I am going to try and get information ( will probably be monday )
on this unit and study air & oil flow chart .Will let you know what I find .
Bo
On Fri, Aug 14, 2015 at 11:11 AM, Cecil R Bearden <crbearden at copper.net>
wrote:
> Bo:
> The Sullair is: Model 185 GPO 2W FO
> B.O.M. 00-75399-DHE
> Serial 008219-001 About a 1986 model
>
> The Leroi has a 1987 Carburetor on it, so that should be close to the
> model. It appears to be a little later than the Sullair. I can get
> the serial numbers If I can find them down in the bowels of the
> machine..... Right now it is pouring down rain and I have about 8 acres
> of Hay still on the ground. Was not supposed to rain until end of next
> week.........
>
> Cecil in OKla
>
>
>
>
> On 8/14/2015 10:31 AM, Bo Hinch wrote:
> > Cecil , would it be possible to get a MODEL & SERIAL # ????? of the
> > compressor in question .Bo Hinch
> >
> > On Fri, Aug 14, 2015 at 10:01 AM, Cecil R Bearden <crbearden at copper.net>
> > wrote:
> >
> >> There is a regulator valve there that controls the high pressure. The
> >> Leroi probably has something stuck from sitting,, just finding out which
> >> component is the problem.
> >>
> >> Cecil in OKla
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> On 8/14/2015 9:28 AM, charlie hill wrote:
> >>> Cecil is that valve behind the control panel and above the air tank
> >>> in the piping that goes to the air outlets? If so, I've seen the guys
> >>> on the job tap on that valve with a wrench or something when the
> >>> compressor was acting up. As I said earlier, unfortunately or I guess
> >>> fortunately, I never worked on any of the compressors but have spent
> >>> thousands of hours on and around the job sites where we were running
> >>> compressors, at times multiple compressors on the same job.
> >>>
> >>> Charlie
> >>>
> >>> -----Original Message-----
> >>> From: Cecil R Bearden
> >>> Sent: Friday, August 14, 2015 9:51 AM
> >>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> >>> Subject: Re: [AT] Need help troubleshooting engine/compressor
> >>>
> >>> I think the Leroi has problems with the minimum pressure valve
> >>> sticking... I have the manual for the later model Sullair compressor,
> >>> and it is very similar if not the same thing.. So, I will try again.
> >>>
> >>> Cecil
> >>>
> >>> On 8/14/2015 8:19 AM, charlie hill wrote:
> >>>> Cecil, have you checked the diaphragm and the vacuum piping
> >>>> going to it? In the back of my mind I was thinking that problem
> >>>> had to do with a bad diaphragm but couldn't remember for sure
> >>>> so I didn't say it.
> >>>>
> >>>> Charlie
> >>>>
> >>>> -----Original Message-----
> >>>> From: Cecil R Bearden
> >>>> Sent: Friday, August 14, 2015 7:09 AM
> >>>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> >>>> Subject: Re: [AT] Need help troubleshooting engine/compressor
> >>>>
> >>>> If these were diesel you could hold open the throttle and it would
> run.
> >>>> However with gasoline, The engine has to get ahead of the compressor.
> >>>> The Leroi has only a pressure regulator that has a line that goes to
> the
> >>>> valve in the intake line. I can put a board over the intake and leave
> >>>> only a small slit open and it will seem to relieve the load some.
> >>>> This did not seem to help the Sullair. The Sullair has a large
> diaphram
> >>>> linked to the governor and to a butterfly valve on the compressor.
> The
> >>>> manual on setting it requires the engine to run it up to minimum
> >> pressure.
> >>>> It is a big chore, but it looks like I am going to have to get the
> front
> >>>> cover end off of the engine and replace the timing belt. If I have to
> >>>> spend 4-6 hours to get this open, There is no way I am going to let it
> >>>> go back together without replacing the belt and idler that costs only
> >>>> $36........
> >>>>
> >>>> I have a small cummins in a road sweeper. It was running when we
> loaded
> >>>> it and hauled it here. Also have several overhead valve 6 cyl ford
> >>>> engines in sweepers. If the bell housings are the same, These2.3
> liters
> >>>> may find another home. I cannot help but think a lot of my problems
> are
> >>>> the sorry excuse for gasoline we have now. I use only 93 Octane no
> >>>> ethanol, but it just does not have the power gasoline used to have...
> >>>> It takes a lot of tiem and trouble, but I could switch them to
> propane.
> >>>> I just need to make sure the engines are running well enough to put on
> >>>> propane. All the mechanics around here who would have known how to
> >>>> diagnose these are gone...
> >>>>
> >>>> Cecil in OKla
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> On 8/14/2015 12:12 AM, charlie hill wrote:
> >>>>> Cecil, I've seen this happen before on other compressors but
> >>>>> never had to work on them myself. I knew two people that
> >>>>> could have told me exactly what is wrong but unfortunately both
> >>>>> of them died in the last 18 months. From what he wrote
> >>>>> earlier I think Bo has a good handle on it. Maybe he can help.
> >>>>> I'll tell you this, it's something in the mechanism that controls the
> >>>>> pressure relief and the governor. Having never actually worked on
> >>>>> one of them myself I can't tell you exactly what but I've seen the
> >>>>> guys tie a piece of wire on the linkage and tie the other end off
> >>>>> to hold it open (or maybe closed) to make them run.
> >>>>> Now yours being gas instead of diesel it could be all together
> >> different
> >>>>> in the way it works but somewhere
> >>>>> there is a mechanical connection that unloads the compressor.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Charlie
> >>>>>
> >>>>> -----Original Message-----
> >>>>> From: Cecil R Bearden
> >>>>> Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2015 10:21 PM
> >>>>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> >>>>> Subject: Re: [AT] Need help troubleshooting engine/compressor
> >>>>>
> >>>>> What are the chances of having 2 ford industrial engines on air
> >>>>> compressors that will not pull the compressor up to pressure. I got
> he
> >>>>> Leroi running today, however, One time I got it up to 60PDI and
> >>>>> holding. However when you cut off the outlet valve and waited for it
> >> to
> >>>>> idle back, it never happened. Now the engine just loads up and
> maybe
> >>>>> will run 10psi any more and it dies............ These things are
> not
> >>>>> worth a service ticket at a dealership, and trying to find someone
> like
> >>>>> me who used to work on this junk is out of the question......
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Cecil in Okla
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>> On 8/12/2015 11:38 AM, Spencer Yost wrote:
> >>>>>> My father-in-law bought a Ford Courier(Ford engine not Mazda engine)
> >> in
> >>>>>> 1978. He gave it to me in 2004 or so after he wore it out and beat
> >> it
> >>>>>> up. My son shortly after was towing his boat and had the engine
> >>>>>> overheat when a radiator hose busted. Didn't hurt the head or
> >> gasket,
> >>>>>> but coked up the oil passages in the overhead cam for the valve
> >> levers.
> >>>>>> A few levers were starved for oil and one wore out enough that it
> >> would
> >>>>>> fall off its post occasionally.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> I got very fast and good at removing the air cleaner, valve cover,
> >>>>>> turning
> >>>>>> the engine, putting the lever back on and reassembling. I think I
> had
> >>>>>> it
> >>>>>> down to 5-10 mins. I finally put a reman-ed head on it because the
> >>>>>> machine shop wanted more to ream the coke out.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Body was nearly rusted out when I sold it about 4-5 years ago. Ran
> >>>>>> great
> >>>>>> and had manual choke to smooth out cold running. I kinda miss that
> >>>>>> truck
> >>>>>> now.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Spencer
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>> On Aug 12, 2015, at 8:40, <rlgoss at twc.com> wrote:
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> The fortunate thing about the Courier was that it did NOT have an
> >>>>>>> interference engine in it. I drove one until the timing belt
> broke,
> >>>>>>> and
> >>>>>>> found out that no damage could occur inside.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Larry
> >>>>>>> ---- charlie hill <charliehill at embarqmail.com> wrote:
> >>>>>>>> Cecil, that old Courier that I drove ran rough as a cob all the
> >> time.
> >>>>>>> It started hard and rattled and shook but it never left me beside
> the
> >>>>>>> road. I figured at the time it might be the timing belt on it and
> >>>>>>> really
> >>>>>>> hoped it would let go so they would get me something half decent to
> >>>>>>> drive but it never did in the months I drove it. I don’t like and
> >> try
> >>>>>>> to
> >>>>>>> avoid any engines with overhead cams particularly if they are
> >>>>>>> "interference"
> >>>>>>> engines. I know those engines are very common now and mostly
> >>>>>>> reliable and good performers but I'm old school enough that I want
> my
> >>>>>>> cam shafts gear or gear and chain driven.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Charlie
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> -----Original Message-----
> >>>>>>> From: Cecil R Bearden
> >>>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2015 11:03 PM
> >>>>>>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> >>>>>>> Subject: Re: [AT] Need help troubleshooting engine/compressor
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Charlie:
> >>>>>>> I wondered about the timing belt. This compressor will sit for a
> >> month
> >>>>>>> or 3 then get used for many times as much as an hour at a time...
> It
> >> is
> >>>>>>> used to blow off hay balers, hay swathers, mowers, real dirty work.
> >>>>>>> Have
> >>>>>>> not sandblasted in many years... I questioned a Ford friend of mine
> >>>>>>> about maybe the timing belt stuck to the toothed pulley while it
> sat
> >>>>>>> and
> >>>>>>> when I started it, it came off and would be out of time.. I assume
> >> the
> >>>>>>> easiest way would be to check the timing at the distributor. Trying
> >> to
> >>>>>>> get to the timing pulleys to view them is at least a 4 hour job....
> >> I
> >>>>>>> would have to remove the radiator, the top section of the
> enclosure,
> >>>>>>> and then the timing cover. I used to do this in about 2 hours,
> now,
> >>>>>>> it
> >>>>>>> is a day or two job...
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Cecil in OKla
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> The fortunate thing about the Courier was that it did NOT have an
> >>>>>>> interference engine in it. I drove one until the timing belt
> broke,
> >>>>>>> and
> >>>>>>> found out that no damage could occur inside.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Larry
> >>>>>>> ---- charlie hill <charliehill at embarqmail.com> wrote:
> >>>>>>>> Cecil, that old Courier that I drove ran rough as a cob all the
> >> time.
> >>>>>>> It started hard and rattled and shook but it never left me beside
> the
> >>>>>>> road. I figured at the time it might be the timing belt on it and
> >>>>>>> really
> >>>>>>> hoped it would let go so they would get me something half decent to
> >>>>>>> drive but it never did in the months I drove it. I don’t like and
> >> try
> >>>>>>> to
> >>>>>>> avoid any engines with overhead cams particularly if they are
> >>>>>>> "interference"
> >>>>>>> engines. I know those engines are very common now and mostly
> >>>>>>> reliable and good performers but I'm old school enough that I want
> my
> >>>>>>> cam shafts gear or gear and chain driven.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Charlie
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> -----Original Message-----
> >>>>>>> From: Cecil R Bearden
> >>>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2015 11:03 PM
> >>>>>>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> >>>>>>> Subject: Re: [AT] Need help troubleshooting engine/compressor
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Charlie:
> >>>>>>> I wondered about the timing belt. This compressor will sit for a
> >> month
> >>>>>>> or 3 then get used for many times as much as an hour at a time...
> It
> >> is
> >>>>>>> used to blow off hay balers, hay swathers, mowers, real dirty work.
> >>>>>>> Have
> >>>>>>> not sandblasted in many years... I questioned a Ford friend of mine
> >>>>>>> about maybe the timing belt stuck to the toothed pulley while it
> sat
> >>>>>>> and
> >>>>>>> when I started it, it came off and would be out of time.. I assume
> >> the
> >>>>>>> easiest way would be to check the timing at the distributor. Trying
> >> to
> >>>>>>> get to the timing pulleys to view them is at least a 4 hour job....
> >> I
> >>>>>>> would have to remove the radiator, the top section of the
> enclosure,
> >>>>>>> and then the timing cover. I used to do this in about 2 hours,
> now,
> >>>>>>> it
> >>>>>>> is a day or two job...
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Cecil in OKla
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> On 8/11/2015 9:48 PM, charlie hill wrote:
> >>>>>>>> Cecil, I wouldn't doubt that Sullair and Leroi are the same.
> >>>>>>>> It could well be. As I think about it, my preference for Leroi
> >>>>>>>> probably
> >>>>>>>> has more to do with what was available to us from a local dealer
> >> that
> >>>>>>>> we trusted and dealer support than anything else. Back in the
> late
> >>>>>>>> 70's to early 80's we had an Atlas Copco compressor with an air
> >> cooled
> >>>>>>>> Deutz diesel. it was a real workhorse but over the years we had
> to
> >>>>>>>> have
> >>>>>>>> the air end (screw compressor) rebuilt a couple of times. 185
> CFM
> >>>>>>>> machines
> >>>>>>>> were the smallest compressors we ever used. Most were 365 or 375
> >> CFM
> >>>>>>>> with
> >>>>>>>> some 750's and occasionally an 1100 or so.
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> Charlie
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> -----Original Message-----
> >>>>>>>> From: Cecil R Bearden
> >>>>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2015 8:29 PM
> >>>>>>>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> >>>>>>>> Subject: Re: [AT] Need help troubleshooting engine/compressor
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> This is a 1985 model. I found the operators manual and parts
> list,
> >>>>>>>> all
> >>>>>>>> that is available. I also got a download from Sullair factory,
> they
> >>>>>>>> are
> >>>>>>>> as helpful as can be for a 30 yr old machine... The Sullair
> >> dealer
> >>>>>>>> here in OKC seemed to have a tech who new about these, but his
> >> advice
> >>>>>>>> did not help....Since this is an early model, it does start under
> >>>>>>>> load,
> >>>>>>>> until it gets to 40psi, then the minimum pressure valve is
> supposed
> >> to
> >>>>>>>> take over and bring it up to operating pressure. I really do not
> >> see
> >>>>>>>> how that works because I had it apart, and it is more like a back
> >>>>>>>> pressure ( check) valve in the output line... This one does not
> >> have a
> >>>>>>>> cylinder on the throttle, it has a diaphram that is connected to
> the
> >>>>>>>> governor and to the butterfly on the intake. The later models
> >> have
> >>>>>>>> a
> >>>>>>>> start unloader valve. I have all new electrical parts and it
> >> really
> >>>>>>>> does not start as well as it did...
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> Funny thing, I bought a 185 Leroi compressor from the OK
> >> DOT. It
> >>>>>>>> was
> >>>>>>>> listed as diesel, I bought it cheap and never looked at it. We got
> >> it
> >>>>>>>> home and when I looked under the cover, it was
> >> gasoline...............
> >>>>>>>> Too Late. I looked at it a today as I was getting desperate,
> >> and
> >>>>>>>> it
> >>>>>>>> is the same compressor as the one I have, but it is a little later
> >> as
> >>>>>>>> it
> >>>>>>>> has the unloader valve on it.... Same engine and looks like the
> >> same
> >>>>>>>> compressor.. Uses same filters too...
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> I took the carb off the Sullair and could not find anything really
> >>>>>>>> wrong
> >>>>>>>> with it. It was fairly clean, but the inside was sooted up. The
> >>>>>>>> Crankcase vent from the valve cover goes in just above the carb
> air
> >>>>>>>> horn. The engine may be in worse condition than I thought... I
> >> have
> >>>>>>>> a
> >>>>>>>> carb kit ordered for it.
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> The leroi has a key start and I don't have a key. It is a
> universal
> >>>>>>>> switch, but to get in to the back side of the dash panel to
> >> replace
> >>>>>>>> the switch takes a contortionist with 4 ft arms. I found a few
> keys
> >> to
> >>>>>>>> those switches as I bought a lot of old DOT equip when I got this
> >>>>>>>> one... I got the flat fixed and moved it to the shade tree, put
> >> in a
> >>>>>>>> new battery and it cranked!!! The old battery had a date of
> April
> >> 04
> >>>>>>>> on it, so it has been sitting for a while....
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> Got some Dr. appts tomorrow, so maybe by tomorrow afternoon I can
> >> see
> >>>>>>>> if something will run..... This has been the year for
> >> breakdowns...
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> On 8/11/2015 5:37 PM, charlie hill wrote:
> >>>>>>>>> Following along with what Bo said about Never Ever putting a body
> >>>>>>>>> part on a screw compressor intake and on my similar comments
> >> earlier.
> >>>>>>>>> The screw compressors are basically the same device as the roots
> >>>>>>>>> blowers
> >>>>>>>>> that are on the old 2 stroke Detroit Diesels and on a lot of race
> >>>>>>>>> cars.
> >>>>>>>>> I
> >>>>>>>>> once
> >>>>>>>>> heard about a mechanic that leaned across a running detroit with
> >> part
> >>>>>>>>> of
> >>>>>>>>> the
> >>>>>>>>> air intake disassembled. His belly got too close, the blower
> >> sucked
> >>>>>>>>> his
> >>>>>>>>> belly
> >>>>>>>>> against it and then in it and eviscerated him, killing him on the
> >>>>>>>>> spot.
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> A centrifugal blower is a different story. You can "unload" it
> by
> >>>>>>>>> partially
> >>>>>>>>> or
> >>>>>>>>> fully blocking the air intake. I have a huge centrifugal blower
> >>>>>>>>> powered
> >>>>>>>>> by
> >>>>>>>>> a
> >>>>>>>>> 5 hp 3 phase motor that is hooked to a dust collector cabinet
> >>>>>>>>> (industrial
> >>>>>>>>> size).
> >>>>>>>>> It has a butterfly on the outlet of the blower and I have to
> >>>>>>>>> partially
> >>>>>>>>> shut
> >>>>>>>>> it, unloading
> >>>>>>>>> the blower, in order for the 5 hp motor to start and get up to
> >> speed
> >>>>>>>>> but
> >>>>>>>>> that
> >>>>>>>>> only applies to centrifugal blowers. Roots blowers or screw
> >>>>>>>>> compressors
> >>>>>>>>> are
> >>>>>>>>> a totally
> >>>>>>>>> different animal and they WILL HURT OR KILL YOU.
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> Bo, I'm not at all familiar with that Mazda powered Sullair but
> >> I've
> >>>>>>>>> been
> >>>>>>>>> around a lot of
> >>>>>>>>> Sullair compressors and they do a fine job! I prefer LeRoi
> >>>>>>>>> compressors
> >>>>>>>>> but
> >>>>>>>>> will take a
> >>>>>>>>> Sulair with no hesitation.
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> Charlie
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> -----Original Message-----
> >>>>>>>>> From: Bo Hinch
> >>>>>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2015 2:19 PM
> >>>>>>>>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> >>>>>>>>> Subject: Re: [AT] Need help troubleshooting engine/compressor
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> Cecil , those were some very nice little compressors and from my
> >> past
> >>>>>>>>> experience with them , I would first remove the carburetor , look
> >> in
> >>>>>>>>> the
> >>>>>>>>> barrel ( engine side ) right next to the butterfly and you should
> >> see
> >>>>>>>>> at
> >>>>>>>>> least three very tiny little holes .Pull a bristle out of a wire
> >>>>>>>>> brush
> >>>>>>>>> and
> >>>>>>>>> use it to ream / clean out holes and with carburator apart , blow
> >> all
> >>>>>>>>> air
> >>>>>>>>> passages from inside out with air pressure or carburetor cleaner
> .
> >>>>>>>>> After reassembling carb. , I would remove air intake cover. I
> think
> >>>>>>>>> you
> >>>>>>>>> will find it stuck open ( should be closed with little to no air
> >>>>>>>>> pressure )
> >>>>>>>>> and determine why it is stuck open such as a blown o`ring hanging
> >> up
> >>>>>>>>> or
> >>>>>>>>> whatever . You also have a regulator valve that operates the air
> >>>>>>>>> intake
> >>>>>>>>> .
> >>>>>>>>> Just follow the small line going into the air intake manifold . I
> >>>>>>>>> think
> >>>>>>>>> it
> >>>>>>>>> also has a diaphram in it that does go bad . Also I disagree with
> >>>>>>>>> quote
> >>>>>>>>> from your previous email
> >>>>>>>>> ((( The engine must start under load until the
> >>>>>>>>> compressor reaches 40psi, then some regulation begins.)))
> >>>>>>>>> Last but not least , NEVER , NEVER put any part of a human body
> >> over
> >>>>>>>>> the
> >>>>>>>>> compressor air intake .If I can get some junk moved around , I
> >> think
> >>>>>>>>> I
> >>>>>>>>> still have a manual on this unit which would be very helpful to
> >> you .
> >>>>>>>>> Bo Hinch in s/w louisiana
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> On Tue, Aug 11, 2015 at 8:03 AM, Cecil R Bearden
> >>>>>>>>> <crbearden at copper.net>
> >>>>>>>>> wrote:
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>> The cold natured problem seems to be typical of these. The
> >>>>>>>>>> factorey
> >>>>>>>>>> says I should have an idle warm up valve, there never was one
> >> .....
> >>>>>>>>>> Cecil in OKla
> >>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>> On 8/11/2015 7:18 AM, Doug Tallman wrote:
> >>>>>>>>>>> Cecil, It sounds like carburetion issues or a big vacuum leak.
> >> I'd
> >>>>>>>>>>> think
> >>>>>>>>>>> you would hear the hiss of a leak that big. Maybe try spraying
> a
> >>>>>>>>>>> little
> >>>>>>>>>>> carb cleaner around the manifold and see if it picks up. Doug T
> >>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>> On 8/11/2015 7:09 AM, Cecil R Bearden wrote:
> >>>>>>>>>>>> Sullair 185 w/ ford/Mazda 4cyl gas engine. Compressor always
> >> has
> >>>>>>>>>>>> been
> >>>>>>>>>>>> cold natured. Had to be completely warmed up before choke
> could
> >>>>>>>>>>>> be
> >>>>>>>>>>>> shut
> >>>>>>>>>>>> off. Open air line valve and engine would die without choke
> on
> >> at
> >>>>>>>>>>>> least
> >>>>>>>>>>>> half way. Working fine a month ago. Now, Engine tries to
> >> start
> >>>>>>>>>>>> and
> >>>>>>>>>>>> gets up to idle speed but compressor is loading engine and it
> >>>>>>>>>>>> cannot
> >>>>>>>>>>>> get
> >>>>>>>>>>>> up to operating speed. If compressor could be disconnected
> from
> >>>>>>>>>>>> engine,
> >>>>>>>>>>>> it would get up to operating speed. Have replaced fuel pump,
> and
> >>>>>>>>>>>> plug
> >>>>>>>>>>>> wires. Spark plug had some surface carbon but not really
> gunked
> >>>>>>>>>>>> up.
> >>>>>>>>>>>> took air intake elbow off of compressor and tried to cut off
> air
> >>>>>>>>>>>> intake
> >>>>>>>>>>>> to allow engine to start, but it nearly sucked my hand into
> the
> >>>>>>>>>>>> pipe.
> >>>>>>>>>>>> In the past distributor,ignition control box, and coil have
> been
> >>>>>>>>>>>> replaced. Have worked on engines gas, propane and diesel for
> 50
> >>>>>>>>>>>> years
> >>>>>>>>>>>> and this one has me beat...... This is the reason I like
> >>>>>>>>>>>> Diesel!!!
> >>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>> I use this for sandblasting and blowing off the round baler.
> >>>>>>>>>>>> Right
> >>>>>>>>>>>> now,
> >>>>>>>>>>>> the baler has some hay lodged between the belts and the
> rollers
> >> on
> >>>>>>>>>>>> the
> >>>>>>>>>>>> back side and it has the baler bound up. The only way to get
> >> this
> >>>>>>>>>>>> out
> >>>>>>>>>>>> is to use a lot of high pressure air and cut the hay out with
> >> the
> >>>>>>>>>>>> air.
> >>>>>>>>>>>> Or, cut the belts pull them out with the loader and re-splice.
> >> I
> >>>>>>>>>>>> did
> >>>>>>>>>>>> not blow off the baler last time i used it, it was trying to
> >> rain
> >>>>>>>>>>>> after
> >>>>>>>>>>>> I put the new bearing in that was causing the fires. The hay
> >>>>>>>>>>>> builds
> >>>>>>>>>>>> up
> >>>>>>>>>>>> in the back above the top of the bale chamber, and causes the
> >>>>>>>>>>>> belts
> >>>>>>>>>>>> to
> >>>>>>>>>>>> stick. Really dry hay is the worst problem...
> >>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>> ---
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