[AT] Need help troubleshooting engine/compressor
charlie hill
charliehill at embarqmail.com
Tue Aug 11 06:48:29 PDT 2015
Cecil, as I said earlier, there absolutely should be a warm up bypass
valve. Is there a push button beside the ignition key (not the start button
but
a separate one) or a 3 position switch that says off start run?
Charlie
-----Original Message-----
From: Cecil R Bearden
Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2015 9:03 AM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: Re: [AT] Need help troubleshooting engine/compressor
The cold natured problem seems to be typical of these. The factorey
says I should have an idle warm up valve, there never was one .....
Cecil in OKla
On 8/11/2015 7:18 AM, Doug Tallman wrote:
> Cecil, It sounds like carburetion issues or a big vacuum leak. I'd think
> you would hear the hiss of a leak that big. Maybe try spraying a little
> carb cleaner around the manifold and see if it picks up. Doug T
>
>
>
>
>
> On 8/11/2015 7:09 AM, Cecil R Bearden wrote:
>> Sullair 185 w/ ford/Mazda 4cyl gas engine. Compressor always has been
>> cold natured. Had to be completely warmed up before choke could be shut
>> off. Open air line valve and engine would die without choke on at least
>> half way. Working fine a month ago. Now, Engine tries to start and
>> gets up to idle speed but compressor is loading engine and it cannot get
>> up to operating speed. If compressor could be disconnected from engine,
>> it would get up to operating speed. Have replaced fuel pump, and plug
>> wires. Spark plug had some surface carbon but not really gunked up.
>> took air intake elbow off of compressor and tried to cut off air intake
>> to allow engine to start, but it nearly sucked my hand into the pipe.
>> In the past distributor,ignition control box, and coil have been
>> replaced. Have worked on engines gas, propane and diesel for 50 years
>> and this one has me beat...... This is the reason I like Diesel!!!
>>
>> I use this for sandblasting and blowing off the round baler. Right now,
>> the baler has some hay lodged between the belts and the rollers on the
>> back side and it has the baler bound up. The only way to get this out
>> is to use a lot of high pressure air and cut the hay out with the air.
>> Or, cut the belts pull them out with the loader and re-splice. I did
>> not blow off the baler last time i used it, it was trying to rain after
>> I put the new bearing in that was causing the fires. The hay builds up
>> in the back above the top of the bale chamber, and causes the belts to
>> stick. Really dry hay is the worst problem...
>>
>>
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