[AT] More Ford Jubilee Adventures

Cecil R Bearden crbearden at copper.net
Fri Aug 28 07:10:45 PDT 2015 

Since water is heavier than oil, it will sink to the bottom and float 
the oil out of the transmission.

Cecil in oKla



On 8/28/2015 7:42 AM, Stephen Offiler wrote:
> What you're going thru is completely normal, and your friend's advice is
> spot-on the money.
>
> In other words, you need to believe that old iron is fun to work on, and
> fun to put to work.  If it's nothing but hassles upon hassles and you have
> work that needs to be done reliably, again, listen to your friend.
>
> SO
>
>
> On Thu, Aug 27, 2015 at 9:20 PM, Mogrits <mogrits at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Gosh this just keeps going. I got the wires on right and went to set the
>> static timing and removed the inspection cover to look for timing marks.
>> bumped the motor a few times and chocolate milk came out of the hole
>> indicating a leaky transmission seal (engine oil is normal) along with a
>> leaky transmission. I have to park it outside and assume the shifter boot
>> is leaking. So I drained the transmission and got a lot of water out with a
>> little oil. Then I googled and found out about the cotter pin that is
>> supposed to be in the drain hole in the bellhousing which is missing on my
>> tractor, and the hole is clogged up. So I cleaned that out and got more
>> water and oil but the flywheel is still dipping itself in the soup so I
>> sprayed a lot of carb cleaner through the timing hole while turning the
>> starter. Hopefully tomorrow it will be flushed I can find out why the
>> distributor is stuck and try to get the thing in time.
>>
>> I asked a friend who is a grading contractor who has operated a lot of Ford
>> and New Holland over the years for advice on this tractor and he said "If
>> you want to do any work with it, sell it to someone who wants to look at it
>> and buy something that works". I know he is right but I have not yet
>> reached that point.
>>
>> Warren
>>
>> On Fri, Aug 14, 2015 at 12:59 AM, charlie hill <charliehill at embarqmail.com
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Warren,   Pull the spark plugs, spin the engine over slowly, by hand if
>>> possible until it comes up top dead center on the #1 piston and on the
>>> compression stroke.  Put the #1 spark plug wire on the distributor cap
>>> lug that corresponds with where the rotor button is pointing and then
>>> connect
>>> the rest of the wires in the correct firing order from there.   You may
>>> need
>>> to
>>> pull the distributor out enough to turn the rotor a notch or so on the
>> gear
>>> but
>>> you shouldn't have to move it much.
>>>
>>> Charlie
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Mogrits
>>> Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2015 7:53 PM
>>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>>> Subject: Re: [AT] More Ford Jubilee Adventures
>>>
>>> So it looked to me like the distributor is rotated 180 degrees, as that
>> is
>>> how the old wires were installed. I put them back correctly and it will
>> pop
>>> but not come close to running. I'm going to look it up and plan to pull
>> the
>>> distributor and reinstall and then set the static timing, assuming I can
>>> find a standard procedure.
>>>
>>> Warren
>>>
>>> On Tue, Aug 11, 2015 at 9:45 PM, Steve Offiler <soffiler at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>>> Just wanted to say there is a ton of good advice here.  Well done
>> Howard.
>>>> If I could add anything at all, I'd suggest replacing points resistance
>>>> test with a voltage drop test.  This has two benefits.  One, most any
>>> volt
>>>> meter even real cheap ones will handle it.  Two, it's a real world test
>>>> done under the kind of current load the system actually works with.
>>>>
>>>> Engine off, roll the distributor cam so points are closed.  Connect
>> meter
>>>> set to volt range across the points. Meaning, one meter lead on the
>> coil
>>>> terminal that goes to the points, and the other to chassis.  Old analog
>>>> meter, watch your polarity.  Digital meter if you're backward it just
>>> puts
>>>> up a minus-sign, no big deal.  Now turn on ignition.  Current flows
>> thru
>>>> coil and points to ground.  If the points are good, voltage will be
>>> around
>>>> 0.1 volt or less.  If they are bad, they're typically way higher, like
>> a
>>>> full volt or more.  This test is not usually ambiguous.  Good vs bad is
>>>> very different on even a cheap meter.
>>>>
>>>> SO
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>
>>>>> On Aug 11, 2015, at 7:01 PM, Howard Weeks <weeksh at att.net> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> I don't claim to be any kind of "condenser" expert but here are a few
>>>>> comments on the subject:
>>>>>
>>>>> 1. Back in the early 50s, I worked weekends for an old car/tractor
>>>>> mechanic. He checked condensers by using a kick test. Basically, he
>> put
>>>>> the subject condenser in series with a small amp meter and placed the
>>>>> combination across a 6 or 12 volt battery momentarily. If you got a
>>> good
>>>>> kick on the amp meter and then nothing, the cap was good. No kick
>> meant
>>>>> it was bad. Any continuous current meant it was also bad. Be sure to
>>>>> discharge the cap by shorting it before connecting across the
>> battery.
>>>>> This test always worked for him.  I have an old piece of test
>> equipment
>>>>> here that also checks a cap in the same manner. Some people can do
>> this
>>>>> test with one of the older design ohmmeters. The new digital meters
>>> will
>>>>> not do the test.
>>>>>
>>>>> 2. I have been restoring antique radios in some form for most of my
>>> life
>>>>> and I have a lot of both old and late model test equipment designed
>> for
>>>>> evaluating capacitors. Most of the ignition caps that I have checked
>>>>> measured approximately .17 - .2 microfarads in capacity. The choice
>> of
>>>>> this capacity is a function of the coil design and if properly
>> selected
>>>>> by the designer, the system should run indefinitely and not pit the
>>>>> points. If they pit badly, it is a sign that the coil and cap are not
>>>>> properly matched or selected. Which side of the points gets pitted
>> is a
>>>>> sign of whether the cap is high or low in value for a particular
>>>>> combination of cap and coil. I am not trying to say that they have to
>>> be
>>>>> a "matched set" - just that a gross change in cap or coil type could
>> be
>>>>> a problem. Most of the old ignition reference books from back in the
>>> 20s
>>>>> and 30s do a pretty good job of explaining how they work and how to
>>> test
>>>>> them. I can't honestly say that I have ever found a truly bad
>>> condenser.
>>>>> But I have had hell with the point resistance (don't know where they
>>>>> were made)!
>>>>>
>>>>> 3. When point are closed, they should measure less than 1 ohm -
>>>>> preferably close to zero ohms ever time they close for the ignition
>> to
>>>>> work properly. If they measure 2 - 5 ohms, the system will either not
>>>>> run or it will be very sick. Same for magneto or standard ignition
>>>>> system. Many of the cheaper ohm meters will not accurately measure
>>>>> resistances below a few ohms.
>>>>>
>>>>> 4. The resistors that are in series with some coils are designed to
>>>>> limit the current through the coils when the engine is running. The
>> DC
>>>>> current through the coils should be in the range of 3 - 6 amps or so
>>>>> when the engine is running. RPM and dwell settings will affect the
>>>>> amount of current to some extent. If a coil designed for a resistor
>> is
>>>>> run without one, it will run for awhile but the coil will overheat
>> and
>>>>> usually quit fairly quickly. Putting a momentary short across that
>>>>> resistor when starting the engine would produce a hotter spark for
>>>>> starting purposes.
>>>>>
>>>>> 5. Pay some attention to the polarity of the coil connection to the
>>>>> distributor. If you have a negative ground battery system, the "-"
>> end
>>>>> of the coil should be connected to the distributor. The "+" end of
>> the
>>>>> coil goes to the distributor if a you have a positive ground system.
>>>>>
>>>>> Don't know if any of this spiel is useful to anyone but it accurately
>>>>> describes my experience with Kettering ignition systems.
>>>>>
>>>>> Howard in GA
>>>>>
>>>>>> On 8/9/2015 2:30 PM, Mogrits wrote:
>>>>>> I don't disagree with you on anything you said, except the resistor
>>> has
>>>>>> been bypassed on my tractor and it uses a coil that needs no
>> resistor.
>>>>>> Substituting for the new, correct condensor produces a spark. The
>> new
>>>>>> condensor does not. So there is definitely a need to replace that
>>>>>> particular condensor.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Sun, Aug 9, 2015 at 2:13 PM, Ron Cook <ron at lakeport-1.com>
>> wrote:
>>>>>>> There is usually no reason to replace a condenser.  Starting
>> problems
>>>>>>> with Ford N tractors can usually be traced to the resistor.
>>>>>>> And I certainly do agree on the crap that is sold these days being
>> no
>>>>>>> good right out of the box.  I quit going to TSC years ago for that
>>>>>>> very
>>>>>>> reason.  So too, did many.  TSC closed their store in Sioux City.
>>>>>>> It has actually helped my generator/starter repair business a
>> little.
>>>>>>> The do it yourself bunch have lost their cheap parts supplier,
>> which
>>>>>>> really were not cheap anyway considering you always have to buy two
>>> or
>>>>>>> more to fix the problem.
>>>>>>> Ron Cook
>>>>>>> Salix, IA
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On 8/9/2015 5:52 AM, Cecil R Bearden wrote:
>>>>>>>> I went through the same thing with a fence charger 2 weeks ago.
>>>> Worked
>>>>>>>> all afternoon in 105 heat index to get wire up around yard to keep
>>>>>>>> pet
>>>>>>>> bull in.  Had a good charger in a tool box next to the other elect
>>>>>>>> service at the South Barn.  It would barely spark.  Dug out the
>>> brand
>>>>>>>> new Zareba charger from TSC that had never been used, it had no
>>>>>>>> spark.
>>>>>>>> Took the Harbor Freight solar one off the back fence and it was
>>> shot.
>>>>>>>> Took the Parmak solar fencer off the divider fence for the horses
>>> and
>>>> it
>>>>>>>> worked!!!
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I certainly hope the pertronix system fixes your
>>> problem...Condensers
>>>>>>>> are being made in China or some other 3rd world country, so
>> quality
>>>> is a
>>>>>>>> problem...
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Cecil in OKla
>>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>>> AT mailing list
>>>>>>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>> AT mailing list
>>>>>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> AT mailing list
>>>>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> AT mailing list
>>>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> AT mailing list
>>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> AT mailing list
>>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> AT mailing list
>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at


---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

More information about the AT mailing list