[AT] Need help troubleshooting engine/compressor

Cecil R Bearden crbearden at copper.net
Fri Aug 14 19:45:26 PDT 2015


I ran a compression check this evening on the Leroi.  My compression 
gauge had not been used in 20+ years.  It had some check valve 
problems.   I had a friend working the gauge and I worked the starter.   
only a couple of cylinders had 50lbs and one had nothing...  Seems funny 
for a engine that will start very easily...  Is it possible the lifters 
are pumped up with dirty oil and will not leak down??  I should have 
changed the oil and filter before I tried to start it.  I did ntohave a 
lot of faith that it would start when I tried it first, but was fooled...

I am trying to determine if it is worth putting lifters in it, or just 
pull it out and find a running engine.  Maybe one with fuel injection..  
Eliminate a carburetor problem and it could use cheaper gas...

I don't mean to whine, but this has been the year for one breakdown 
after another. .  It must be this wet weather...

Cecil in OKla


On 8/14/2015 1:52 PM, Bo Hinch wrote:
> Thanks , I am going to try and get information ( will probably be monday )
> on this unit and study air & oil flow chart .Will let you know what I find .
> Bo
>
> On Fri, Aug 14, 2015 at 11:11 AM, Cecil R Bearden <crbearden at copper.net>
> wrote:
>
>> Bo:
>> The Sullair is:  Model     185 GPO 2W FO
>> B.O.M.    00-75399-DHE
>> Serial     008219-001  About a 1986 model
>>
>> The Leroi has a 1987 Carburetor on it, so that should be close to the
>> model.   It appears to be a little later than the Sullair.   I can get
>> the serial numbers If I can find them down in the bowels of the
>> machine.....  Right now it is pouring down rain and I have about 8 acres
>> of Hay still on the ground.  Was not supposed to rain until end of next
>> week.........
>>
>> Cecil in OKla
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On 8/14/2015 10:31 AM, Bo Hinch wrote:
>>> Cecil , would it be possible to get a MODEL & SERIAL # ????? of the
>>> compressor in question .Bo Hinch
>>>
>>> On Fri, Aug 14, 2015 at 10:01 AM, Cecil R Bearden <crbearden at copper.net>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> There is a regulator valve there that controls the high pressure.  The
>>>> Leroi probably has something stuck from sitting,, just finding out which
>>>> component is the problem.
>>>>
>>>> Cecil in OKla
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On 8/14/2015 9:28 AM, charlie hill wrote:
>>>>> Cecil is that valve behind the control panel and above the air tank
>>>>> in the piping that goes to the air outlets?  If so, I've seen the guys
>>>>> on the job tap on that valve with a wrench or something when the
>>>>> compressor was acting up.  As I said earlier, unfortunately or I guess
>>>>> fortunately, I never worked on any of the compressors but have spent
>>>>> thousands of hours on and around the job sites where we were running
>>>>> compressors, at times multiple compressors on the same job.
>>>>>
>>>>> Charlie
>>>>>
>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>> From: Cecil R Bearden
>>>>> Sent: Friday, August 14, 2015 9:51 AM
>>>>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>>>>> Subject: Re: [AT] Need help troubleshooting engine/compressor
>>>>>
>>>>> I think the Leroi has problems with the minimum pressure valve
>>>>> sticking...   I have the manual for the later model Sullair compressor,
>>>>> and it is very similar if not the same thing..  So, I will try again.
>>>>>
>>>>> Cecil
>>>>>
>>>>> On 8/14/2015 8:19 AM, charlie hill wrote:
>>>>>> Cecil, have you checked the diaphragm and the vacuum piping
>>>>>> going to it?  In the back of my mind I was thinking that problem
>>>>>> had to do with a bad diaphragm but couldn't remember for sure
>>>>>> so I didn't say it.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Charlie
>>>>>>
>>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>>> From: Cecil R Bearden
>>>>>> Sent: Friday, August 14, 2015 7:09 AM
>>>>>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>>>>>> Subject: Re: [AT] Need help troubleshooting engine/compressor
>>>>>>
>>>>>> If these were diesel you could hold open the throttle and it would
>> run.
>>>>>> However with gasoline, The engine has to get ahead of the compressor.
>>>>>> The Leroi has only a pressure regulator that has a line that goes to
>> the
>>>>>> valve in the intake line.  I can put a board over the intake and leave
>>>>>> only a small slit open and it will seem to relieve the load some.
>>>>>> This did not seem to help the Sullair.  The Sullair has a large
>> diaphram
>>>>>> linked to the governor and to a butterfly valve on the compressor.
>> The
>>>>>> manual on setting it requires the engine to run it up to minimum
>>>> pressure.
>>>>>> It is a big chore, but it looks like I am going to have to get the
>> front
>>>>>> cover end off of the engine and replace the timing belt.  If I have to
>>>>>> spend 4-6 hours to get this open, There is no way I am going to let it
>>>>>> go back together without replacing the belt and idler that costs only
>>>>>> $36........
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I have a small cummins in a road sweeper.  It was running when we
>> loaded
>>>>>> it and hauled it here.  Also have several overhead valve 6 cyl ford
>>>>>> engines in sweepers.  If the bell housings are the same, These2.3
>> liters
>>>>>> may find another home.  I cannot help but think a lot of my problems
>> are
>>>>>> the sorry excuse for gasoline we have now. I use only 93 Octane no
>>>>>> ethanol, but it just does not have the power gasoline used to have...
>>>>>> It takes a lot of tiem and trouble, but I could switch them to
>> propane.
>>>>>> I just need to make sure the engines are running well enough to put on
>>>>>> propane.   All the mechanics around here who would have known how to
>>>>>> diagnose these are gone...
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Cecil in OKla
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On 8/14/2015 12:12 AM, charlie hill wrote:
>>>>>>> Cecil,  I've seen this happen before on other compressors but
>>>>>>> never had to work on them myself.  I knew two people that
>>>>>>> could have told me exactly what is wrong but unfortunately both
>>>>>>> of them died in the last 18 months.   From what he wrote
>>>>>>> earlier I think Bo has a good handle on it.  Maybe he can help.
>>>>>>> I'll tell you this, it's something in the mechanism that controls the
>>>>>>> pressure relief and the governor.  Having never actually worked on
>>>>>>> one of them myself I can't tell you exactly what but I've seen the
>>>>>>> guys tie a piece of wire on the linkage and tie the other end off
>>>>>>> to hold it open (or maybe closed) to make them run.
>>>>>>> Now yours being gas instead of diesel it could be all together
>>>> different
>>>>>>> in the way it works but somewhere
>>>>>>> there is a mechanical connection that unloads the compressor.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Charlie
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>>>> From: Cecil R Bearden
>>>>>>> Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2015 10:21 PM
>>>>>>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>>>>>>> Subject: Re: [AT] Need help troubleshooting engine/compressor
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> What are the chances of having 2 ford industrial engines on air
>>>>>>> compressors that will not pull the compressor up to pressure.  I got
>> he
>>>>>>> Leroi running today, however, One time I got it up to 60PDI and
>>>>>>> holding.  However when you cut off the outlet valve and waited for it
>>>> to
>>>>>>> idle back, it never happened.   Now the engine just loads up and
>> maybe
>>>>>>> will run 10psi any more and it dies............    These things are
>> not
>>>>>>> worth a service ticket at a dealership, and trying to find someone
>> like
>>>>>>> me who used to work on this junk is out of the question......
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Cecil in Okla
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On 8/12/2015 11:38 AM, Spencer Yost wrote:
>>>>>>>> My father-in-law bought a Ford Courier(Ford engine not Mazda engine)
>>>> in
>>>>>>>> 1978.   He gave it to me in 2004 or so after he wore it out and beat
>>>> it
>>>>>>>> up.    My son shortly after was towing his boat and had the engine
>>>>>>>> overheat when a radiator hose busted.   Didn't hurt the head or
>>>> gasket,
>>>>>>>> but coked up the oil passages in the overhead cam for the valve
>>>> levers.
>>>>>>>> A few levers were starved for oil and one wore out enough that it
>>>> would
>>>>>>>> fall off its post occasionally.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I got very fast and good at removing the air cleaner, valve cover,
>>>>>>>> turning
>>>>>>>> the engine, putting the lever back on and reassembling.  I think I
>> had
>>>>>>>> it
>>>>>>>> down to 5-10 mins.  I finally put a reman-ed head on it because the
>>>>>>>> machine shop wanted more to ream the coke out.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Body was nearly rusted out when I sold it about 4-5 years ago.  Ran
>>>>>>>> great
>>>>>>>> and had manual choke to smooth out cold running.  I kinda miss that
>>>>>>>> truck
>>>>>>>> now.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Spencer
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> On Aug 12, 2015, at 8:40, <rlgoss at twc.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> The fortunate thing about the Courier was that it did NOT have an
>>>>>>>>> interference engine in it.  I drove one until the timing belt
>> broke,
>>>>>>>>> and
>>>>>>>>> found out that no damage could occur inside.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Larry
>>>>>>>>> ---- charlie hill <charliehill at embarqmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>> Cecil,  that old Courier that I drove ran rough as a cob all the
>>>> time.
>>>>>>>>> It started hard and rattled and shook but it never left me beside
>> the
>>>>>>>>> road.   I figured at the time it might be the timing belt on it and
>>>>>>>>> really
>>>>>>>>> hoped it would let go so they would get me something half decent to
>>>>>>>>> drive but it never did in the months I drove it.   I don’t like and
>>>> try
>>>>>>>>> to
>>>>>>>>> avoid any engines with overhead cams particularly if they are
>>>>>>>>> "interference"
>>>>>>>>> engines.  I know those engines are very common now and mostly
>>>>>>>>> reliable and good performers but I'm old school enough that I want
>> my
>>>>>>>>> cam shafts gear or gear and chain driven.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Charlie
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>>>>>> From: Cecil R Bearden
>>>>>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2015 11:03 PM
>>>>>>>>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>>>>>>>>> Subject: Re: [AT] Need help troubleshooting engine/compressor
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Charlie:
>>>>>>>>> I wondered about the timing belt. This compressor will sit for a
>>>> month
>>>>>>>>> or 3 then get used for many times as much as an hour at a time...
>> It
>>>> is
>>>>>>>>> used to blow off hay balers, hay swathers, mowers, real dirty work.
>>>>>>>>> Have
>>>>>>>>> not sandblasted in many years... I questioned a Ford friend of mine
>>>>>>>>> about maybe the timing belt stuck to the toothed pulley while it
>> sat
>>>>>>>>> and
>>>>>>>>> when I started it,  it came off and would be out of time.. I assume
>>>> the
>>>>>>>>> easiest way would be to check the timing at the distributor. Trying
>>>> to
>>>>>>>>> get to the timing pulleys to view them is at least a 4 hour job....
>>>> I
>>>>>>>>> would have to remove the radiator, the top  section of the
>> enclosure,
>>>>>>>>> and then the timing cover.   I used to do this in about 2 hours,
>> now,
>>>>>>>>> it
>>>>>>>>> is a day or two job...
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Cecil in OKla
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> The fortunate thing about the Courier was that it did NOT have an
>>>>>>>>> interference engine in it.  I drove one until the timing belt
>> broke,
>>>>>>>>> and
>>>>>>>>> found out that no damage could occur inside.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Larry
>>>>>>>>> ---- charlie hill <charliehill at embarqmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>> Cecil,  that old Courier that I drove ran rough as a cob all the
>>>> time.
>>>>>>>>> It started hard and rattled and shook but it never left me beside
>> the
>>>>>>>>> road.   I figured at the time it might be the timing belt on it and
>>>>>>>>> really
>>>>>>>>> hoped it would let go so they would get me something half decent to
>>>>>>>>> drive but it never did in the months I drove it.   I don’t like and
>>>> try
>>>>>>>>> to
>>>>>>>>> avoid any engines with overhead cams particularly if they are
>>>>>>>>> "interference"
>>>>>>>>> engines.  I know those engines are very common now and mostly
>>>>>>>>> reliable and good performers but I'm old school enough that I want
>> my
>>>>>>>>> cam shafts gear or gear and chain driven.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Charlie
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>>>>>> From: Cecil R Bearden
>>>>>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2015 11:03 PM
>>>>>>>>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>>>>>>>>> Subject: Re: [AT] Need help troubleshooting engine/compressor
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Charlie:
>>>>>>>>> I wondered about the timing belt. This compressor will sit for a
>>>> month
>>>>>>>>> or 3 then get used for many times as much as an hour at a time...
>> It
>>>> is
>>>>>>>>> used to blow off hay balers, hay swathers, mowers, real dirty work.
>>>>>>>>> Have
>>>>>>>>> not sandblasted in many years... I questioned a Ford friend of mine
>>>>>>>>> about maybe the timing belt stuck to the toothed pulley while it
>> sat
>>>>>>>>> and
>>>>>>>>> when I started it,  it came off and would be out of time.. I assume
>>>> the
>>>>>>>>> easiest way would be to check the timing at the distributor. Trying
>>>> to
>>>>>>>>> get to the timing pulleys to view them is at least a 4 hour job....
>>>> I
>>>>>>>>> would have to remove the radiator, the top  section of the
>> enclosure,
>>>>>>>>> and then the timing cover.   I used to do this in about 2 hours,
>> now,
>>>>>>>>> it
>>>>>>>>> is a day or two job...
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Cecil in OKla
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> On 8/11/2015 9:48 PM, charlie hill wrote:
>>>>>>>>>> Cecil,  I wouldn't doubt that Sullair and Leroi are the same.
>>>>>>>>>> It could well be.  As I think about it, my preference for Leroi
>>>>>>>>>> probably
>>>>>>>>>> has more to do with what was available to us from a local dealer
>>>> that
>>>>>>>>>> we trusted and dealer support than anything else.   Back in the
>> late
>>>>>>>>>> 70's to early 80's we had an Atlas Copco compressor with an air
>>>> cooled
>>>>>>>>>> Deutz diesel.  it was a real workhorse but over the years we had
>> to
>>>>>>>>>> have
>>>>>>>>>> the air end (screw compressor) rebuilt a couple of times.   185
>> CFM
>>>>>>>>>> machines
>>>>>>>>>> were the smallest compressors we ever used.  Most were 365 or 375
>>>> CFM
>>>>>>>>>> with
>>>>>>>>>> some 750's and occasionally an 1100 or so.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> Charlie
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>>>>>>> From: Cecil R Bearden
>>>>>>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2015 8:29 PM
>>>>>>>>>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>>>>>>>>>> Subject: Re: [AT] Need help troubleshooting engine/compressor
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> This is a 1985 model.  I found the operators manual and parts
>> list,
>>>>>>>>>> all
>>>>>>>>>> that is available.  I also got a download from Sullair factory,
>> they
>>>>>>>>>> are
>>>>>>>>>> as helpful as can be for a 30 yr old machine...    The Sullair
>>>> dealer
>>>>>>>>>> here in OKC seemed to have a tech who new about these, but his
>>>> advice
>>>>>>>>>> did not help....Since this is an early model, it does start under
>>>>>>>>>> load,
>>>>>>>>>> until it gets to 40psi, then the minimum pressure valve is
>> supposed
>>>> to
>>>>>>>>>> take over and bring it up to operating pressure.  I really do not
>>>> see
>>>>>>>>>> how that works because I had it apart, and it is more like a back
>>>>>>>>>> pressure ( check) valve in the output line... This one does not
>>>> have a
>>>>>>>>>> cylinder on the throttle, it has a diaphram that is connected to
>> the
>>>>>>>>>> governor and to the butterfly on the intake.     The later models
>>>> have
>>>>>>>>>> a
>>>>>>>>>> start unloader valve.   I have all new electrical parts and it
>>>> really
>>>>>>>>>> does not start as well as it did...
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>         Funny thing, I bought a  185 Leroi compressor from the OK
>>>> DOT. It
>>>>>>>>>> was
>>>>>>>>>> listed as diesel, I bought it cheap and never looked at it. We got
>>>> it
>>>>>>>>>> home and when I looked under the cover, it was
>>>> gasoline...............
>>>>>>>>>> Too Late.      I looked at it a today as I was getting desperate,
>>>> and
>>>>>>>>>> it
>>>>>>>>>> is the same compressor as the one I have, but it is a little later
>>>> as
>>>>>>>>>> it
>>>>>>>>>> has the unloader valve on it....  Same engine and looks like the
>>>> same
>>>>>>>>>> compressor..  Uses same filters too...
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> I took the carb off the Sullair and could not find anything really
>>>>>>>>>> wrong
>>>>>>>>>> with it.  It was fairly clean, but the inside was sooted up.  The
>>>>>>>>>> Crankcase vent from the valve cover goes in just above the carb
>> air
>>>>>>>>>> horn.  The engine may be in worse condition than I thought...   I
>>>> have
>>>>>>>>>> a
>>>>>>>>>> carb kit ordered for it.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> The leroi has a key start and I don't have a key.  It is a
>> universal
>>>>>>>>>> switch, but to get  in  to the back side of the dash panel to
>>>> replace
>>>>>>>>>> the switch takes a contortionist with 4 ft arms. I found a few
>> keys
>>>> to
>>>>>>>>>> those switches as I bought a lot of old DOT equip when I got this
>>>>>>>>>> one...   I got the flat fixed and moved it to the shade tree, put
>>>> in a
>>>>>>>>>> new battery and it cranked!!!   The old battery had a date of
>> April
>>>> 04
>>>>>>>>>> on it, so it has been sitting for a while....
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> Got some Dr. appts tomorrow, so maybe by tomorrow afternoon I can
>>>> see
>>>>>>>>>> if something will run.....   This has been the year for
>>>> breakdowns...
>>>>>>>>>>> On 8/11/2015 5:37 PM, charlie hill wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>> Following along with what Bo said about Never Ever putting a body
>>>>>>>>>>> part on a screw compressor intake and on my similar comments
>>>> earlier.
>>>>>>>>>>> The screw compressors are basically the same device as the roots
>>>>>>>>>>> blowers
>>>>>>>>>>> that are on the old 2 stroke Detroit Diesels and on a lot of race
>>>>>>>>>>> cars.
>>>>>>>>>>> I
>>>>>>>>>>> once
>>>>>>>>>>> heard about a mechanic that leaned across a running detroit with
>>>> part
>>>>>>>>>>> of
>>>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>>>> air intake disassembled.  His belly got too close, the blower
>>>> sucked
>>>>>>>>>>> his
>>>>>>>>>>> belly
>>>>>>>>>>> against it and then in it and eviscerated him, killing him on the
>>>>>>>>>>> spot.
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> A centrifugal blower is a different story.  You can "unload" it
>> by
>>>>>>>>>>> partially
>>>>>>>>>>> or
>>>>>>>>>>> fully blocking the air intake.  I have a huge centrifugal blower
>>>>>>>>>>> powered
>>>>>>>>>>> by
>>>>>>>>>>> a
>>>>>>>>>>> 5 hp 3 phase motor that is hooked to a dust collector cabinet
>>>>>>>>>>> (industrial
>>>>>>>>>>> size).
>>>>>>>>>>> It has a butterfly on the outlet of the blower and I have to
>>>>>>>>>>> partially
>>>>>>>>>>> shut
>>>>>>>>>>> it, unloading
>>>>>>>>>>> the blower, in order for the 5 hp motor to start and get up to
>>>> speed
>>>>>>>>>>> but
>>>>>>>>>>> that
>>>>>>>>>>> only applies to centrifugal blowers.  Roots blowers or screw
>>>>>>>>>>> compressors
>>>>>>>>>>> are
>>>>>>>>>>> a totally
>>>>>>>>>>> different animal and they WILL HURT OR KILL YOU.
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> Bo, I'm not at all familiar with that Mazda powered Sullair but
>>>> I've
>>>>>>>>>>> been
>>>>>>>>>>> around a lot of
>>>>>>>>>>> Sullair compressors and they do a fine job!  I prefer LeRoi
>>>>>>>>>>> compressors
>>>>>>>>>>> but
>>>>>>>>>>> will take a
>>>>>>>>>>> Sulair with no hesitation.
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> Charlie
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>>>>>>>> From: Bo Hinch
>>>>>>>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2015 2:19 PM
>>>>>>>>>>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>>>>>>>>>>> Subject: Re: [AT] Need help troubleshooting engine/compressor
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> Cecil , those were some very nice little compressors and from my
>>>> past
>>>>>>>>>>> experience with them , I would first remove the carburetor , look
>>>> in
>>>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>>>> barrel ( engine side ) right next to the butterfly and you should
>>>> see
>>>>>>>>>>> at
>>>>>>>>>>> least three very tiny little holes .Pull a bristle out of a wire
>>>>>>>>>>> brush
>>>>>>>>>>> and
>>>>>>>>>>> use it to ream / clean out holes and with carburator apart , blow
>>>> all
>>>>>>>>>>> air
>>>>>>>>>>> passages from inside out with air pressure or carburetor cleaner
>> .
>>>>>>>>>>> After reassembling carb. , I would remove air intake cover. I
>> think
>>>>>>>>>>> you
>>>>>>>>>>> will find it stuck open ( should be closed with little to no air
>>>>>>>>>>> pressure )
>>>>>>>>>>> and determine why it is stuck open such as a blown o`ring hanging
>>>> up
>>>>>>>>>>> or
>>>>>>>>>>> whatever . You also have a regulator valve that operates the air
>>>>>>>>>>> intake
>>>>>>>>>>> .
>>>>>>>>>>> Just follow the small line going into the air intake manifold . I
>>>>>>>>>>> think
>>>>>>>>>>> it
>>>>>>>>>>> also has a diaphram in it that does go bad . Also I disagree with
>>>>>>>>>>> quote
>>>>>>>>>>> from your previous email
>>>>>>>>>>> ((( The engine must start under load until the
>>>>>>>>>>> compressor reaches 40psi, then some regulation begins.)))
>>>>>>>>>>> Last but not least , NEVER , NEVER put any part of a human body
>>>> over
>>>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>>>> compressor air intake .If I can get some junk moved around , I
>>>> think
>>>>>>>>>>> I
>>>>>>>>>>> still have a manual on this unit which would be very helpful to
>>>> you .
>>>>>>>>>>> Bo Hinch in s/w louisiana
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> On Tue, Aug 11, 2015 at 8:03 AM, Cecil R Bearden
>>>>>>>>>>> <crbearden at copper.net>
>>>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> The cold natured problem seems to be typical of these.   The
>>>>>>>>>>>> factorey
>>>>>>>>>>>> says I should have an idle warm up valve, there never was one
>>>> .....
>>>>>>>>>>>> Cecil in OKla
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>> On 8/11/2015 7:18 AM, Doug Tallman wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Cecil, It sounds like carburetion issues or a big vacuum leak.
>>>> I'd
>>>>>>>>>>>>> think
>>>>>>>>>>>>> you would hear the hiss of a leak that big. Maybe try spraying
>> a
>>>>>>>>>>>>> little
>>>>>>>>>>>>> carb cleaner around the manifold and see if it picks up. Doug T
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On 8/11/2015 7:09 AM, Cecil R Bearden wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Sullair 185 w/ ford/Mazda 4cyl gas engine.  Compressor always
>>>> has
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> been
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> cold natured.  Had to be completely warmed up before choke
>> could
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> be
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> shut
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> off.  Open air line valve and engine would die without choke
>> on
>>>> at
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> least
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> half way.  Working fine a month ago.   Now, Engine tries to
>>>> start
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> and
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> gets up to idle speed but compressor is loading engine and it
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> cannot
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> get
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> up to operating speed.  If compressor could be disconnected
>> from
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> engine,
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> it would get up to operating speed. Have replaced fuel pump,
>> and
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> plug
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> wires.  Spark plug had some surface carbon but not really
>> gunked
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> up.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> took air intake elbow off of compressor and tried to cut off
>> air
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> intake
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> to allow engine to start, but it nearly sucked my hand into
>> the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> pipe.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> In the past distributor,ignition control box, and coil have
>> been
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> replaced.  Have worked on engines gas, propane and diesel for
>> 50
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> years
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> and this one has me beat......  This is the reason I like
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Diesel!!!
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I use this for sandblasting and blowing off the round baler.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Right
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> now,
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the baler has some hay lodged between the belts and the
>> rollers
>>>> on
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> back side and it has the baler bound up.  The only way to get
>>>> this
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> out
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> is to use a lot of high pressure air and cut the hay out with
>>>> the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> air.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Or, cut the belts pull them out with the loader and re-splice.
>>>> I
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> did
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> not blow off the baler last time i used it, it was trying to
>>>> rain
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> after
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I put the new bearing in that was causing the fires.  The hay
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> builds
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> up
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> in the back above the top of the bale chamber, and causes the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> belts
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> to
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> stick.  Really dry hay is the worst problem...
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
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