[AT] Need help troubleshooting engine/compressor
Cecil R Bearden
crbearden at copper.net
Fri Aug 14 09:11:10 PDT 2015
Bo:
The Sullair is: Model 185 GPO 2W FO
B.O.M. 00-75399-DHE
Serial 008219-001 About a 1986 model
The Leroi has a 1987 Carburetor on it, so that should be close to the
model. It appears to be a little later than the Sullair. I can get
the serial numbers If I can find them down in the bowels of the
machine..... Right now it is pouring down rain and I have about 8 acres
of Hay still on the ground. Was not supposed to rain until end of next
week.........
Cecil in OKla
On 8/14/2015 10:31 AM, Bo Hinch wrote:
> Cecil , would it be possible to get a MODEL & SERIAL # ????? of the
> compressor in question .Bo Hinch
>
> On Fri, Aug 14, 2015 at 10:01 AM, Cecil R Bearden <crbearden at copper.net>
> wrote:
>
>> There is a regulator valve there that controls the high pressure. The
>> Leroi probably has something stuck from sitting,, just finding out which
>> component is the problem.
>>
>> Cecil in OKla
>>
>>
>>
>> On 8/14/2015 9:28 AM, charlie hill wrote:
>>> Cecil is that valve behind the control panel and above the air tank
>>> in the piping that goes to the air outlets? If so, I've seen the guys
>>> on the job tap on that valve with a wrench or something when the
>>> compressor was acting up. As I said earlier, unfortunately or I guess
>>> fortunately, I never worked on any of the compressors but have spent
>>> thousands of hours on and around the job sites where we were running
>>> compressors, at times multiple compressors on the same job.
>>>
>>> Charlie
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Cecil R Bearden
>>> Sent: Friday, August 14, 2015 9:51 AM
>>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>>> Subject: Re: [AT] Need help troubleshooting engine/compressor
>>>
>>> I think the Leroi has problems with the minimum pressure valve
>>> sticking... I have the manual for the later model Sullair compressor,
>>> and it is very similar if not the same thing.. So, I will try again.
>>>
>>> Cecil
>>>
>>> On 8/14/2015 8:19 AM, charlie hill wrote:
>>>> Cecil, have you checked the diaphragm and the vacuum piping
>>>> going to it? In the back of my mind I was thinking that problem
>>>> had to do with a bad diaphragm but couldn't remember for sure
>>>> so I didn't say it.
>>>>
>>>> Charlie
>>>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: Cecil R Bearden
>>>> Sent: Friday, August 14, 2015 7:09 AM
>>>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>>>> Subject: Re: [AT] Need help troubleshooting engine/compressor
>>>>
>>>> If these were diesel you could hold open the throttle and it would run.
>>>> However with gasoline, The engine has to get ahead of the compressor.
>>>> The Leroi has only a pressure regulator that has a line that goes to the
>>>> valve in the intake line. I can put a board over the intake and leave
>>>> only a small slit open and it will seem to relieve the load some.
>>>> This did not seem to help the Sullair. The Sullair has a large diaphram
>>>> linked to the governor and to a butterfly valve on the compressor. The
>>>> manual on setting it requires the engine to run it up to minimum
>> pressure.
>>>> It is a big chore, but it looks like I am going to have to get the front
>>>> cover end off of the engine and replace the timing belt. If I have to
>>>> spend 4-6 hours to get this open, There is no way I am going to let it
>>>> go back together without replacing the belt and idler that costs only
>>>> $36........
>>>>
>>>> I have a small cummins in a road sweeper. It was running when we loaded
>>>> it and hauled it here. Also have several overhead valve 6 cyl ford
>>>> engines in sweepers. If the bell housings are the same, These2.3 liters
>>>> may find another home. I cannot help but think a lot of my problems are
>>>> the sorry excuse for gasoline we have now. I use only 93 Octane no
>>>> ethanol, but it just does not have the power gasoline used to have...
>>>> It takes a lot of tiem and trouble, but I could switch them to propane.
>>>> I just need to make sure the engines are running well enough to put on
>>>> propane. All the mechanics around here who would have known how to
>>>> diagnose these are gone...
>>>>
>>>> Cecil in OKla
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On 8/14/2015 12:12 AM, charlie hill wrote:
>>>>> Cecil, I've seen this happen before on other compressors but
>>>>> never had to work on them myself. I knew two people that
>>>>> could have told me exactly what is wrong but unfortunately both
>>>>> of them died in the last 18 months. From what he wrote
>>>>> earlier I think Bo has a good handle on it. Maybe he can help.
>>>>> I'll tell you this, it's something in the mechanism that controls the
>>>>> pressure relief and the governor. Having never actually worked on
>>>>> one of them myself I can't tell you exactly what but I've seen the
>>>>> guys tie a piece of wire on the linkage and tie the other end off
>>>>> to hold it open (or maybe closed) to make them run.
>>>>> Now yours being gas instead of diesel it could be all together
>> different
>>>>> in the way it works but somewhere
>>>>> there is a mechanical connection that unloads the compressor.
>>>>>
>>>>> Charlie
>>>>>
>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>> From: Cecil R Bearden
>>>>> Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2015 10:21 PM
>>>>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>>>>> Subject: Re: [AT] Need help troubleshooting engine/compressor
>>>>>
>>>>> What are the chances of having 2 ford industrial engines on air
>>>>> compressors that will not pull the compressor up to pressure. I got he
>>>>> Leroi running today, however, One time I got it up to 60PDI and
>>>>> holding. However when you cut off the outlet valve and waited for it
>> to
>>>>> idle back, it never happened. Now the engine just loads up and maybe
>>>>> will run 10psi any more and it dies............ These things are not
>>>>> worth a service ticket at a dealership, and trying to find someone like
>>>>> me who used to work on this junk is out of the question......
>>>>>
>>>>> Cecil in Okla
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On 8/12/2015 11:38 AM, Spencer Yost wrote:
>>>>>> My father-in-law bought a Ford Courier(Ford engine not Mazda engine)
>> in
>>>>>> 1978. He gave it to me in 2004 or so after he wore it out and beat
>> it
>>>>>> up. My son shortly after was towing his boat and had the engine
>>>>>> overheat when a radiator hose busted. Didn't hurt the head or
>> gasket,
>>>>>> but coked up the oil passages in the overhead cam for the valve
>> levers.
>>>>>> A few levers were starved for oil and one wore out enough that it
>> would
>>>>>> fall off its post occasionally.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I got very fast and good at removing the air cleaner, valve cover,
>>>>>> turning
>>>>>> the engine, putting the lever back on and reassembling. I think I had
>>>>>> it
>>>>>> down to 5-10 mins. I finally put a reman-ed head on it because the
>>>>>> machine shop wanted more to ream the coke out.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Body was nearly rusted out when I sold it about 4-5 years ago. Ran
>>>>>> great
>>>>>> and had manual choke to smooth out cold running. I kinda miss that
>>>>>> truck
>>>>>> now.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Spencer
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Aug 12, 2015, at 8:40, <rlgoss at twc.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> The fortunate thing about the Courier was that it did NOT have an
>>>>>>> interference engine in it. I drove one until the timing belt broke,
>>>>>>> and
>>>>>>> found out that no damage could occur inside.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Larry
>>>>>>> ---- charlie hill <charliehill at embarqmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>> Cecil, that old Courier that I drove ran rough as a cob all the
>> time.
>>>>>>> It started hard and rattled and shook but it never left me beside the
>>>>>>> road. I figured at the time it might be the timing belt on it and
>>>>>>> really
>>>>>>> hoped it would let go so they would get me something half decent to
>>>>>>> drive but it never did in the months I drove it. I don’t like and
>> try
>>>>>>> to
>>>>>>> avoid any engines with overhead cams particularly if they are
>>>>>>> "interference"
>>>>>>> engines. I know those engines are very common now and mostly
>>>>>>> reliable and good performers but I'm old school enough that I want my
>>>>>>> cam shafts gear or gear and chain driven.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Charlie
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>>>> From: Cecil R Bearden
>>>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2015 11:03 PM
>>>>>>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>>>>>>> Subject: Re: [AT] Need help troubleshooting engine/compressor
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Charlie:
>>>>>>> I wondered about the timing belt. This compressor will sit for a
>> month
>>>>>>> or 3 then get used for many times as much as an hour at a time... It
>> is
>>>>>>> used to blow off hay balers, hay swathers, mowers, real dirty work.
>>>>>>> Have
>>>>>>> not sandblasted in many years... I questioned a Ford friend of mine
>>>>>>> about maybe the timing belt stuck to the toothed pulley while it sat
>>>>>>> and
>>>>>>> when I started it, it came off and would be out of time.. I assume
>> the
>>>>>>> easiest way would be to check the timing at the distributor. Trying
>> to
>>>>>>> get to the timing pulleys to view them is at least a 4 hour job....
>> I
>>>>>>> would have to remove the radiator, the top section of the enclosure,
>>>>>>> and then the timing cover. I used to do this in about 2 hours, now,
>>>>>>> it
>>>>>>> is a day or two job...
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Cecil in OKla
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> The fortunate thing about the Courier was that it did NOT have an
>>>>>>> interference engine in it. I drove one until the timing belt broke,
>>>>>>> and
>>>>>>> found out that no damage could occur inside.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Larry
>>>>>>> ---- charlie hill <charliehill at embarqmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>> Cecil, that old Courier that I drove ran rough as a cob all the
>> time.
>>>>>>> It started hard and rattled and shook but it never left me beside the
>>>>>>> road. I figured at the time it might be the timing belt on it and
>>>>>>> really
>>>>>>> hoped it would let go so they would get me something half decent to
>>>>>>> drive but it never did in the months I drove it. I don’t like and
>> try
>>>>>>> to
>>>>>>> avoid any engines with overhead cams particularly if they are
>>>>>>> "interference"
>>>>>>> engines. I know those engines are very common now and mostly
>>>>>>> reliable and good performers but I'm old school enough that I want my
>>>>>>> cam shafts gear or gear and chain driven.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Charlie
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>>>> From: Cecil R Bearden
>>>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2015 11:03 PM
>>>>>>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>>>>>>> Subject: Re: [AT] Need help troubleshooting engine/compressor
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Charlie:
>>>>>>> I wondered about the timing belt. This compressor will sit for a
>> month
>>>>>>> or 3 then get used for many times as much as an hour at a time... It
>> is
>>>>>>> used to blow off hay balers, hay swathers, mowers, real dirty work.
>>>>>>> Have
>>>>>>> not sandblasted in many years... I questioned a Ford friend of mine
>>>>>>> about maybe the timing belt stuck to the toothed pulley while it sat
>>>>>>> and
>>>>>>> when I started it, it came off and would be out of time.. I assume
>> the
>>>>>>> easiest way would be to check the timing at the distributor. Trying
>> to
>>>>>>> get to the timing pulleys to view them is at least a 4 hour job....
>> I
>>>>>>> would have to remove the radiator, the top section of the enclosure,
>>>>>>> and then the timing cover. I used to do this in about 2 hours, now,
>>>>>>> it
>>>>>>> is a day or two job...
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Cecil in OKla
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On 8/11/2015 9:48 PM, charlie hill wrote:
>>>>>>>> Cecil, I wouldn't doubt that Sullair and Leroi are the same.
>>>>>>>> It could well be. As I think about it, my preference for Leroi
>>>>>>>> probably
>>>>>>>> has more to do with what was available to us from a local dealer
>> that
>>>>>>>> we trusted and dealer support than anything else. Back in the late
>>>>>>>> 70's to early 80's we had an Atlas Copco compressor with an air
>> cooled
>>>>>>>> Deutz diesel. it was a real workhorse but over the years we had to
>>>>>>>> have
>>>>>>>> the air end (screw compressor) rebuilt a couple of times. 185 CFM
>>>>>>>> machines
>>>>>>>> were the smallest compressors we ever used. Most were 365 or 375
>> CFM
>>>>>>>> with
>>>>>>>> some 750's and occasionally an 1100 or so.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Charlie
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>>>>> From: Cecil R Bearden
>>>>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2015 8:29 PM
>>>>>>>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>>>>>>>> Subject: Re: [AT] Need help troubleshooting engine/compressor
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> This is a 1985 model. I found the operators manual and parts list,
>>>>>>>> all
>>>>>>>> that is available. I also got a download from Sullair factory, they
>>>>>>>> are
>>>>>>>> as helpful as can be for a 30 yr old machine... The Sullair
>> dealer
>>>>>>>> here in OKC seemed to have a tech who new about these, but his
>> advice
>>>>>>>> did not help....Since this is an early model, it does start under
>>>>>>>> load,
>>>>>>>> until it gets to 40psi, then the minimum pressure valve is supposed
>> to
>>>>>>>> take over and bring it up to operating pressure. I really do not
>> see
>>>>>>>> how that works because I had it apart, and it is more like a back
>>>>>>>> pressure ( check) valve in the output line... This one does not
>> have a
>>>>>>>> cylinder on the throttle, it has a diaphram that is connected to the
>>>>>>>> governor and to the butterfly on the intake. The later models
>> have
>>>>>>>> a
>>>>>>>> start unloader valve. I have all new electrical parts and it
>> really
>>>>>>>> does not start as well as it did...
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Funny thing, I bought a 185 Leroi compressor from the OK
>> DOT. It
>>>>>>>> was
>>>>>>>> listed as diesel, I bought it cheap and never looked at it. We got
>> it
>>>>>>>> home and when I looked under the cover, it was
>> gasoline...............
>>>>>>>> Too Late. I looked at it a today as I was getting desperate,
>> and
>>>>>>>> it
>>>>>>>> is the same compressor as the one I have, but it is a little later
>> as
>>>>>>>> it
>>>>>>>> has the unloader valve on it.... Same engine and looks like the
>> same
>>>>>>>> compressor.. Uses same filters too...
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I took the carb off the Sullair and could not find anything really
>>>>>>>> wrong
>>>>>>>> with it. It was fairly clean, but the inside was sooted up. The
>>>>>>>> Crankcase vent from the valve cover goes in just above the carb air
>>>>>>>> horn. The engine may be in worse condition than I thought... I
>> have
>>>>>>>> a
>>>>>>>> carb kit ordered for it.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> The leroi has a key start and I don't have a key. It is a universal
>>>>>>>> switch, but to get in to the back side of the dash panel to
>> replace
>>>>>>>> the switch takes a contortionist with 4 ft arms. I found a few keys
>> to
>>>>>>>> those switches as I bought a lot of old DOT equip when I got this
>>>>>>>> one... I got the flat fixed and moved it to the shade tree, put
>> in a
>>>>>>>> new battery and it cranked!!! The old battery had a date of April
>> 04
>>>>>>>> on it, so it has been sitting for a while....
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Got some Dr. appts tomorrow, so maybe by tomorrow afternoon I can
>> see
>>>>>>>> if something will run..... This has been the year for
>> breakdowns...
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> On 8/11/2015 5:37 PM, charlie hill wrote:
>>>>>>>>> Following along with what Bo said about Never Ever putting a body
>>>>>>>>> part on a screw compressor intake and on my similar comments
>> earlier.
>>>>>>>>> The screw compressors are basically the same device as the roots
>>>>>>>>> blowers
>>>>>>>>> that are on the old 2 stroke Detroit Diesels and on a lot of race
>>>>>>>>> cars.
>>>>>>>>> I
>>>>>>>>> once
>>>>>>>>> heard about a mechanic that leaned across a running detroit with
>> part
>>>>>>>>> of
>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>> air intake disassembled. His belly got too close, the blower
>> sucked
>>>>>>>>> his
>>>>>>>>> belly
>>>>>>>>> against it and then in it and eviscerated him, killing him on the
>>>>>>>>> spot.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> A centrifugal blower is a different story. You can "unload" it by
>>>>>>>>> partially
>>>>>>>>> or
>>>>>>>>> fully blocking the air intake. I have a huge centrifugal blower
>>>>>>>>> powered
>>>>>>>>> by
>>>>>>>>> a
>>>>>>>>> 5 hp 3 phase motor that is hooked to a dust collector cabinet
>>>>>>>>> (industrial
>>>>>>>>> size).
>>>>>>>>> It has a butterfly on the outlet of the blower and I have to
>>>>>>>>> partially
>>>>>>>>> shut
>>>>>>>>> it, unloading
>>>>>>>>> the blower, in order for the 5 hp motor to start and get up to
>> speed
>>>>>>>>> but
>>>>>>>>> that
>>>>>>>>> only applies to centrifugal blowers. Roots blowers or screw
>>>>>>>>> compressors
>>>>>>>>> are
>>>>>>>>> a totally
>>>>>>>>> different animal and they WILL HURT OR KILL YOU.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Bo, I'm not at all familiar with that Mazda powered Sullair but
>> I've
>>>>>>>>> been
>>>>>>>>> around a lot of
>>>>>>>>> Sullair compressors and they do a fine job! I prefer LeRoi
>>>>>>>>> compressors
>>>>>>>>> but
>>>>>>>>> will take a
>>>>>>>>> Sulair with no hesitation.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Charlie
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>>>>>> From: Bo Hinch
>>>>>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2015 2:19 PM
>>>>>>>>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>>>>>>>>> Subject: Re: [AT] Need help troubleshooting engine/compressor
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Cecil , those were some very nice little compressors and from my
>> past
>>>>>>>>> experience with them , I would first remove the carburetor , look
>> in
>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>> barrel ( engine side ) right next to the butterfly and you should
>> see
>>>>>>>>> at
>>>>>>>>> least three very tiny little holes .Pull a bristle out of a wire
>>>>>>>>> brush
>>>>>>>>> and
>>>>>>>>> use it to ream / clean out holes and with carburator apart , blow
>> all
>>>>>>>>> air
>>>>>>>>> passages from inside out with air pressure or carburetor cleaner .
>>>>>>>>> After reassembling carb. , I would remove air intake cover. I think
>>>>>>>>> you
>>>>>>>>> will find it stuck open ( should be closed with little to no air
>>>>>>>>> pressure )
>>>>>>>>> and determine why it is stuck open such as a blown o`ring hanging
>> up
>>>>>>>>> or
>>>>>>>>> whatever . You also have a regulator valve that operates the air
>>>>>>>>> intake
>>>>>>>>> .
>>>>>>>>> Just follow the small line going into the air intake manifold . I
>>>>>>>>> think
>>>>>>>>> it
>>>>>>>>> also has a diaphram in it that does go bad . Also I disagree with
>>>>>>>>> quote
>>>>>>>>> from your previous email
>>>>>>>>> ((( The engine must start under load until the
>>>>>>>>> compressor reaches 40psi, then some regulation begins.)))
>>>>>>>>> Last but not least , NEVER , NEVER put any part of a human body
>> over
>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>> compressor air intake .If I can get some junk moved around , I
>> think
>>>>>>>>> I
>>>>>>>>> still have a manual on this unit which would be very helpful to
>> you .
>>>>>>>>> Bo Hinch in s/w louisiana
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> On Tue, Aug 11, 2015 at 8:03 AM, Cecil R Bearden
>>>>>>>>> <crbearden at copper.net>
>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> The cold natured problem seems to be typical of these. The
>>>>>>>>>> factorey
>>>>>>>>>> says I should have an idle warm up valve, there never was one
>> .....
>>>>>>>>>> Cecil in OKla
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> On 8/11/2015 7:18 AM, Doug Tallman wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>> Cecil, It sounds like carburetion issues or a big vacuum leak.
>> I'd
>>>>>>>>>>> think
>>>>>>>>>>> you would hear the hiss of a leak that big. Maybe try spraying a
>>>>>>>>>>> little
>>>>>>>>>>> carb cleaner around the manifold and see if it picks up. Doug T
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> On 8/11/2015 7:09 AM, Cecil R Bearden wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>> Sullair 185 w/ ford/Mazda 4cyl gas engine. Compressor always
>> has
>>>>>>>>>>>> been
>>>>>>>>>>>> cold natured. Had to be completely warmed up before choke could
>>>>>>>>>>>> be
>>>>>>>>>>>> shut
>>>>>>>>>>>> off. Open air line valve and engine would die without choke on
>> at
>>>>>>>>>>>> least
>>>>>>>>>>>> half way. Working fine a month ago. Now, Engine tries to
>> start
>>>>>>>>>>>> and
>>>>>>>>>>>> gets up to idle speed but compressor is loading engine and it
>>>>>>>>>>>> cannot
>>>>>>>>>>>> get
>>>>>>>>>>>> up to operating speed. If compressor could be disconnected from
>>>>>>>>>>>> engine,
>>>>>>>>>>>> it would get up to operating speed. Have replaced fuel pump, and
>>>>>>>>>>>> plug
>>>>>>>>>>>> wires. Spark plug had some surface carbon but not really gunked
>>>>>>>>>>>> up.
>>>>>>>>>>>> took air intake elbow off of compressor and tried to cut off air
>>>>>>>>>>>> intake
>>>>>>>>>>>> to allow engine to start, but it nearly sucked my hand into the
>>>>>>>>>>>> pipe.
>>>>>>>>>>>> In the past distributor,ignition control box, and coil have been
>>>>>>>>>>>> replaced. Have worked on engines gas, propane and diesel for 50
>>>>>>>>>>>> years
>>>>>>>>>>>> and this one has me beat...... This is the reason I like
>>>>>>>>>>>> Diesel!!!
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> I use this for sandblasting and blowing off the round baler.
>>>>>>>>>>>> Right
>>>>>>>>>>>> now,
>>>>>>>>>>>> the baler has some hay lodged between the belts and the rollers
>> on
>>>>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>>>>> back side and it has the baler bound up. The only way to get
>> this
>>>>>>>>>>>> out
>>>>>>>>>>>> is to use a lot of high pressure air and cut the hay out with
>> the
>>>>>>>>>>>> air.
>>>>>>>>>>>> Or, cut the belts pull them out with the loader and re-splice.
>> I
>>>>>>>>>>>> did
>>>>>>>>>>>> not blow off the baler last time i used it, it was trying to
>> rain
>>>>>>>>>>>> after
>>>>>>>>>>>> I put the new bearing in that was causing the fires. The hay
>>>>>>>>>>>> builds
>>>>>>>>>>>> up
>>>>>>>>>>>> in the back above the top of the bale chamber, and causes the
>>>>>>>>>>>> belts
>>>>>>>>>>>> to
>>>>>>>>>>>> stick. Really dry hay is the worst problem...
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>
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