[AT] Need help troubleshooting engine/compressor
Cecil R Bearden
crbearden at copper.net
Fri Aug 14 08:01:26 PDT 2015
There is a regulator valve there that controls the high pressure. The
Leroi probably has something stuck from sitting,, just finding out which
component is the problem.
Cecil in OKla
On 8/14/2015 9:28 AM, charlie hill wrote:
> Cecil is that valve behind the control panel and above the air tank
> in the piping that goes to the air outlets? If so, I've seen the guys
> on the job tap on that valve with a wrench or something when the
> compressor was acting up. As I said earlier, unfortunately or I guess
> fortunately, I never worked on any of the compressors but have spent
> thousands of hours on and around the job sites where we were running
> compressors, at times multiple compressors on the same job.
>
> Charlie
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Cecil R Bearden
> Sent: Friday, August 14, 2015 9:51 AM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: Re: [AT] Need help troubleshooting engine/compressor
>
> I think the Leroi has problems with the minimum pressure valve
> sticking... I have the manual for the later model Sullair compressor,
> and it is very similar if not the same thing.. So, I will try again.
>
> Cecil
>
> On 8/14/2015 8:19 AM, charlie hill wrote:
>> Cecil, have you checked the diaphragm and the vacuum piping
>> going to it? In the back of my mind I was thinking that problem
>> had to do with a bad diaphragm but couldn't remember for sure
>> so I didn't say it.
>>
>> Charlie
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Cecil R Bearden
>> Sent: Friday, August 14, 2015 7:09 AM
>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>> Subject: Re: [AT] Need help troubleshooting engine/compressor
>>
>> If these were diesel you could hold open the throttle and it would run.
>> However with gasoline, The engine has to get ahead of the compressor.
>> The Leroi has only a pressure regulator that has a line that goes to the
>> valve in the intake line. I can put a board over the intake and leave
>> only a small slit open and it will seem to relieve the load some.
>> This did not seem to help the Sullair. The Sullair has a large diaphram
>> linked to the governor and to a butterfly valve on the compressor. The
>> manual on setting it requires the engine to run it up to minimum pressure.
>>
>> It is a big chore, but it looks like I am going to have to get the front
>> cover end off of the engine and replace the timing belt. If I have to
>> spend 4-6 hours to get this open, There is no way I am going to let it
>> go back together without replacing the belt and idler that costs only
>> $36........
>>
>> I have a small cummins in a road sweeper. It was running when we loaded
>> it and hauled it here. Also have several overhead valve 6 cyl ford
>> engines in sweepers. If the bell housings are the same, These2.3 liters
>> may find another home. I cannot help but think a lot of my problems are
>> the sorry excuse for gasoline we have now. I use only 93 Octane no
>> ethanol, but it just does not have the power gasoline used to have...
>> It takes a lot of tiem and trouble, but I could switch them to propane.
>> I just need to make sure the engines are running well enough to put on
>> propane. All the mechanics around here who would have known how to
>> diagnose these are gone...
>>
>> Cecil in OKla
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On 8/14/2015 12:12 AM, charlie hill wrote:
>>> Cecil, I've seen this happen before on other compressors but
>>> never had to work on them myself. I knew two people that
>>> could have told me exactly what is wrong but unfortunately both
>>> of them died in the last 18 months. From what he wrote
>>> earlier I think Bo has a good handle on it. Maybe he can help.
>>> I'll tell you this, it's something in the mechanism that controls the
>>> pressure relief and the governor. Having never actually worked on
>>> one of them myself I can't tell you exactly what but I've seen the
>>> guys tie a piece of wire on the linkage and tie the other end off
>>> to hold it open (or maybe closed) to make them run.
>>> Now yours being gas instead of diesel it could be all together different
>>> in the way it works but somewhere
>>> there is a mechanical connection that unloads the compressor.
>>>
>>> Charlie
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Cecil R Bearden
>>> Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2015 10:21 PM
>>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>>> Subject: Re: [AT] Need help troubleshooting engine/compressor
>>>
>>> What are the chances of having 2 ford industrial engines on air
>>> compressors that will not pull the compressor up to pressure. I got he
>>> Leroi running today, however, One time I got it up to 60PDI and
>>> holding. However when you cut off the outlet valve and waited for it to
>>> idle back, it never happened. Now the engine just loads up and maybe
>>> will run 10psi any more and it dies............ These things are not
>>> worth a service ticket at a dealership, and trying to find someone like
>>> me who used to work on this junk is out of the question......
>>>
>>> Cecil in Okla
>>>
>>>
>>> On 8/12/2015 11:38 AM, Spencer Yost wrote:
>>>> My father-in-law bought a Ford Courier(Ford engine not Mazda engine) in
>>>> 1978. He gave it to me in 2004 or so after he wore it out and beat it
>>>> up. My son shortly after was towing his boat and had the engine
>>>> overheat when a radiator hose busted. Didn't hurt the head or gasket,
>>>> but coked up the oil passages in the overhead cam for the valve levers.
>>>> A few levers were starved for oil and one wore out enough that it would
>>>> fall off its post occasionally.
>>>>
>>>> I got very fast and good at removing the air cleaner, valve cover,
>>>> turning
>>>> the engine, putting the lever back on and reassembling. I think I had
>>>> it
>>>> down to 5-10 mins. I finally put a reman-ed head on it because the
>>>> machine shop wanted more to ream the coke out.
>>>>
>>>> Body was nearly rusted out when I sold it about 4-5 years ago. Ran
>>>> great
>>>> and had manual choke to smooth out cold running. I kinda miss that
>>>> truck
>>>> now.
>>>>
>>>> Spencer
>>>>
>>>>> On Aug 12, 2015, at 8:40, <rlgoss at twc.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> The fortunate thing about the Courier was that it did NOT have an
>>>>> interference engine in it. I drove one until the timing belt broke,
>>>>> and
>>>>> found out that no damage could occur inside.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Larry
>>>>> ---- charlie hill <charliehill at embarqmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>> Cecil, that old Courier that I drove ran rough as a cob all the time.
>>>>> It started hard and rattled and shook but it never left me beside the
>>>>> road. I figured at the time it might be the timing belt on it and
>>>>> really
>>>>> hoped it would let go so they would get me something half decent to
>>>>> drive but it never did in the months I drove it. I don’t like and try
>>>>> to
>>>>> avoid any engines with overhead cams particularly if they are
>>>>> "interference"
>>>>> engines. I know those engines are very common now and mostly
>>>>> reliable and good performers but I'm old school enough that I want my
>>>>> cam shafts gear or gear and chain driven.
>>>>>
>>>>> Charlie
>>>>>
>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>> From: Cecil R Bearden
>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2015 11:03 PM
>>>>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>>>>> Subject: Re: [AT] Need help troubleshooting engine/compressor
>>>>>
>>>>> Charlie:
>>>>> I wondered about the timing belt. This compressor will sit for a month
>>>>> or 3 then get used for many times as much as an hour at a time... It is
>>>>> used to blow off hay balers, hay swathers, mowers, real dirty work.
>>>>> Have
>>>>> not sandblasted in many years... I questioned a Ford friend of mine
>>>>> about maybe the timing belt stuck to the toothed pulley while it sat
>>>>> and
>>>>> when I started it, it came off and would be out of time.. I assume the
>>>>> easiest way would be to check the timing at the distributor. Trying to
>>>>> get to the timing pulleys to view them is at least a 4 hour job.... I
>>>>> would have to remove the radiator, the top section of the enclosure,
>>>>> and then the timing cover. I used to do this in about 2 hours, now,
>>>>> it
>>>>> is a day or two job...
>>>>>
>>>>> Cecil in OKla
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> The fortunate thing about the Courier was that it did NOT have an
>>>>> interference engine in it. I drove one until the timing belt broke,
>>>>> and
>>>>> found out that no damage could occur inside.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Larry
>>>>> ---- charlie hill <charliehill at embarqmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>> Cecil, that old Courier that I drove ran rough as a cob all the time.
>>>>> It started hard and rattled and shook but it never left me beside the
>>>>> road. I figured at the time it might be the timing belt on it and
>>>>> really
>>>>> hoped it would let go so they would get me something half decent to
>>>>> drive but it never did in the months I drove it. I don’t like and try
>>>>> to
>>>>> avoid any engines with overhead cams particularly if they are
>>>>> "interference"
>>>>> engines. I know those engines are very common now and mostly
>>>>> reliable and good performers but I'm old school enough that I want my
>>>>> cam shafts gear or gear and chain driven.
>>>>>
>>>>> Charlie
>>>>>
>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>> From: Cecil R Bearden
>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2015 11:03 PM
>>>>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>>>>> Subject: Re: [AT] Need help troubleshooting engine/compressor
>>>>>
>>>>> Charlie:
>>>>> I wondered about the timing belt. This compressor will sit for a month
>>>>> or 3 then get used for many times as much as an hour at a time... It is
>>>>> used to blow off hay balers, hay swathers, mowers, real dirty work.
>>>>> Have
>>>>> not sandblasted in many years... I questioned a Ford friend of mine
>>>>> about maybe the timing belt stuck to the toothed pulley while it sat
>>>>> and
>>>>> when I started it, it came off and would be out of time.. I assume the
>>>>> easiest way would be to check the timing at the distributor. Trying to
>>>>> get to the timing pulleys to view them is at least a 4 hour job.... I
>>>>> would have to remove the radiator, the top section of the enclosure,
>>>>> and then the timing cover. I used to do this in about 2 hours, now,
>>>>> it
>>>>> is a day or two job...
>>>>>
>>>>> Cecil in OKla
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> On 8/11/2015 9:48 PM, charlie hill wrote:
>>>>>> Cecil, I wouldn't doubt that Sullair and Leroi are the same.
>>>>>> It could well be. As I think about it, my preference for Leroi
>>>>>> probably
>>>>>> has more to do with what was available to us from a local dealer that
>>>>>> we trusted and dealer support than anything else. Back in the late
>>>>>> 70's to early 80's we had an Atlas Copco compressor with an air cooled
>>>>>> Deutz diesel. it was a real workhorse but over the years we had to
>>>>>> have
>>>>>> the air end (screw compressor) rebuilt a couple of times. 185 CFM
>>>>>> machines
>>>>>> were the smallest compressors we ever used. Most were 365 or 375 CFM
>>>>>> with
>>>>>> some 750's and occasionally an 1100 or so.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Charlie
>>>>>>
>>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>>> From: Cecil R Bearden
>>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2015 8:29 PM
>>>>>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>>>>>> Subject: Re: [AT] Need help troubleshooting engine/compressor
>>>>>>
>>>>>> This is a 1985 model. I found the operators manual and parts list,
>>>>>> all
>>>>>> that is available. I also got a download from Sullair factory, they
>>>>>> are
>>>>>> as helpful as can be for a 30 yr old machine... The Sullair dealer
>>>>>> here in OKC seemed to have a tech who new about these, but his advice
>>>>>> did not help....Since this is an early model, it does start under
>>>>>> load,
>>>>>> until it gets to 40psi, then the minimum pressure valve is supposed to
>>>>>> take over and bring it up to operating pressure. I really do not see
>>>>>> how that works because I had it apart, and it is more like a back
>>>>>> pressure ( check) valve in the output line... This one does not have a
>>>>>> cylinder on the throttle, it has a diaphram that is connected to the
>>>>>> governor and to the butterfly on the intake. The later models have
>>>>>> a
>>>>>> start unloader valve. I have all new electrical parts and it really
>>>>>> does not start as well as it did...
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Funny thing, I bought a 185 Leroi compressor from the OK DOT. It
>>>>>> was
>>>>>> listed as diesel, I bought it cheap and never looked at it. We got it
>>>>>> home and when I looked under the cover, it was gasoline...............
>>>>>> Too Late. I looked at it a today as I was getting desperate, and
>>>>>> it
>>>>>> is the same compressor as the one I have, but it is a little later as
>>>>>> it
>>>>>> has the unloader valve on it.... Same engine and looks like the same
>>>>>> compressor.. Uses same filters too...
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I took the carb off the Sullair and could not find anything really
>>>>>> wrong
>>>>>> with it. It was fairly clean, but the inside was sooted up. The
>>>>>> Crankcase vent from the valve cover goes in just above the carb air
>>>>>> horn. The engine may be in worse condition than I thought... I have
>>>>>> a
>>>>>> carb kit ordered for it.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> The leroi has a key start and I don't have a key. It is a universal
>>>>>> switch, but to get in to the back side of the dash panel to replace
>>>>>> the switch takes a contortionist with 4 ft arms. I found a few keys to
>>>>>> those switches as I bought a lot of old DOT equip when I got this
>>>>>> one... I got the flat fixed and moved it to the shade tree, put in a
>>>>>> new battery and it cranked!!! The old battery had a date of April 04
>>>>>> on it, so it has been sitting for a while....
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Got some Dr. appts tomorrow, so maybe by tomorrow afternoon I can see
>>>>>> if something will run..... This has been the year for breakdowns...
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On 8/11/2015 5:37 PM, charlie hill wrote:
>>>>>>> Following along with what Bo said about Never Ever putting a body
>>>>>>> part on a screw compressor intake and on my similar comments earlier.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> The screw compressors are basically the same device as the roots
>>>>>>> blowers
>>>>>>> that are on the old 2 stroke Detroit Diesels and on a lot of race
>>>>>>> cars.
>>>>>>> I
>>>>>>> once
>>>>>>> heard about a mechanic that leaned across a running detroit with part
>>>>>>> of
>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>> air intake disassembled. His belly got too close, the blower sucked
>>>>>>> his
>>>>>>> belly
>>>>>>> against it and then in it and eviscerated him, killing him on the
>>>>>>> spot.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> A centrifugal blower is a different story. You can "unload" it by
>>>>>>> partially
>>>>>>> or
>>>>>>> fully blocking the air intake. I have a huge centrifugal blower
>>>>>>> powered
>>>>>>> by
>>>>>>> a
>>>>>>> 5 hp 3 phase motor that is hooked to a dust collector cabinet
>>>>>>> (industrial
>>>>>>> size).
>>>>>>> It has a butterfly on the outlet of the blower and I have to
>>>>>>> partially
>>>>>>> shut
>>>>>>> it, unloading
>>>>>>> the blower, in order for the 5 hp motor to start and get up to speed
>>>>>>> but
>>>>>>> that
>>>>>>> only applies to centrifugal blowers. Roots blowers or screw
>>>>>>> compressors
>>>>>>> are
>>>>>>> a totally
>>>>>>> different animal and they WILL HURT OR KILL YOU.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Bo, I'm not at all familiar with that Mazda powered Sullair but I've
>>>>>>> been
>>>>>>> around a lot of
>>>>>>> Sullair compressors and they do a fine job! I prefer LeRoi
>>>>>>> compressors
>>>>>>> but
>>>>>>> will take a
>>>>>>> Sulair with no hesitation.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Charlie
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>>>> From: Bo Hinch
>>>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2015 2:19 PM
>>>>>>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>>>>>>> Subject: Re: [AT] Need help troubleshooting engine/compressor
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Cecil , those were some very nice little compressors and from my past
>>>>>>> experience with them , I would first remove the carburetor , look in
>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>> barrel ( engine side ) right next to the butterfly and you should see
>>>>>>> at
>>>>>>> least three very tiny little holes .Pull a bristle out of a wire
>>>>>>> brush
>>>>>>> and
>>>>>>> use it to ream / clean out holes and with carburator apart , blow all
>>>>>>> air
>>>>>>> passages from inside out with air pressure or carburetor cleaner .
>>>>>>> After reassembling carb. , I would remove air intake cover. I think
>>>>>>> you
>>>>>>> will find it stuck open ( should be closed with little to no air
>>>>>>> pressure )
>>>>>>> and determine why it is stuck open such as a blown o`ring hanging up
>>>>>>> or
>>>>>>> whatever . You also have a regulator valve that operates the air
>>>>>>> intake
>>>>>>> .
>>>>>>> Just follow the small line going into the air intake manifold . I
>>>>>>> think
>>>>>>> it
>>>>>>> also has a diaphram in it that does go bad . Also I disagree with
>>>>>>> quote
>>>>>>> from your previous email
>>>>>>> ((( The engine must start under load until the
>>>>>>> compressor reaches 40psi, then some regulation begins.)))
>>>>>>> Last but not least , NEVER , NEVER put any part of a human body over
>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>> compressor air intake .If I can get some junk moved around , I think
>>>>>>> I
>>>>>>> still have a manual on this unit which would be very helpful to you .
>>>>>>> Bo Hinch in s/w louisiana
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Tue, Aug 11, 2015 at 8:03 AM, Cecil R Bearden
>>>>>>> <crbearden at copper.net>
>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> The cold natured problem seems to be typical of these. The
>>>>>>>> factorey
>>>>>>>> says I should have an idle warm up valve, there never was one .....
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Cecil in OKla
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> On 8/11/2015 7:18 AM, Doug Tallman wrote:
>>>>>>>>> Cecil, It sounds like carburetion issues or a big vacuum leak. I'd
>>>>>>>>> think
>>>>>>>>> you would hear the hiss of a leak that big. Maybe try spraying a
>>>>>>>>> little
>>>>>>>>> carb cleaner around the manifold and see if it picks up. Doug T
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> On 8/11/2015 7:09 AM, Cecil R Bearden wrote:
>>>>>>>>>> Sullair 185 w/ ford/Mazda 4cyl gas engine. Compressor always has
>>>>>>>>>> been
>>>>>>>>>> cold natured. Had to be completely warmed up before choke could
>>>>>>>>>> be
>>>>>>>>>> shut
>>>>>>>>>> off. Open air line valve and engine would die without choke on at
>>>>>>>>>> least
>>>>>>>>>> half way. Working fine a month ago. Now, Engine tries to start
>>>>>>>>>> and
>>>>>>>>>> gets up to idle speed but compressor is loading engine and it
>>>>>>>>>> cannot
>>>>>>>>>> get
>>>>>>>>>> up to operating speed. If compressor could be disconnected from
>>>>>>>>>> engine,
>>>>>>>>>> it would get up to operating speed. Have replaced fuel pump, and
>>>>>>>>>> plug
>>>>>>>>>> wires. Spark plug had some surface carbon but not really gunked
>>>>>>>>>> up.
>>>>>>>>>> took air intake elbow off of compressor and tried to cut off air
>>>>>>>>>> intake
>>>>>>>>>> to allow engine to start, but it nearly sucked my hand into the
>>>>>>>>>> pipe.
>>>>>>>>>> In the past distributor,ignition control box, and coil have been
>>>>>>>>>> replaced. Have worked on engines gas, propane and diesel for 50
>>>>>>>>>> years
>>>>>>>>>> and this one has me beat...... This is the reason I like
>>>>>>>>>> Diesel!!!
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> I use this for sandblasting and blowing off the round baler.
>>>>>>>>>> Right
>>>>>>>>>> now,
>>>>>>>>>> the baler has some hay lodged between the belts and the rollers on
>>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>>> back side and it has the baler bound up. The only way to get this
>>>>>>>>>> out
>>>>>>>>>> is to use a lot of high pressure air and cut the hay out with the
>>>>>>>>>> air.
>>>>>>>>>> Or, cut the belts pull them out with the loader and re-splice. I
>>>>>>>>>> did
>>>>>>>>>> not blow off the baler last time i used it, it was trying to rain
>>>>>>>>>> after
>>>>>>>>>> I put the new bearing in that was causing the fires. The hay
>>>>>>>>>> builds
>>>>>>>>>> up
>>>>>>>>>> in the back above the top of the bale chamber, and causes the
>>>>>>>>>> belts
>>>>>>>>>> to
>>>>>>>>>> stick. Really dry hay is the worst problem...
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> ---
>>>>>>>>>> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus
>>>>>>>>>> software.
>>>>>>>>>> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>>>>>> AT mailing list
>>>>>>>>>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>>>>> AT mailing list
>>>>>>>>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>>>>>>>> ---
>>>>>>>> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
>>>>>>>> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>>>> AT mailing list
>>>>>>>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>>> AT mailing list
>>>>>>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>>> AT mailing list
>>>>>>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>>>>>> ---
>>>>>> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
>>>>>> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>>>>>>
>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>> AT mailing list
>>>>>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>>>>>>
>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>> AT mailing list
>>>>>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>>>>> ---
>>>>> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
>>>>> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>>>>>
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> AT mailing list
>>>>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>>>>>
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> AT mailing list
>>>>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> AT mailing list
>>>>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> AT mailing list
>>>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>>> ---
>>> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
>>> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> AT mailing list
>>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> AT mailing list
>>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>> ---
>> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
>> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> AT mailing list
>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> AT mailing list
>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
> ---
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
More information about the AT
mailing list