[AT] More Ford Jubilee Adventures

Tue Aug 11 18:17:50 PDT 2015

Howard:
When you mentioned point resistance, it hit that memory button....  I 
have installed a lot of points that would not create a spark.  AI had to 
turn on the ignition, and close the points on my screwdriver and spark 
it between the points several times before they would make a small spark 
when they broke.  Then I would have spark at the coil.

Cecil in OKla

n 8/11/2015 8:01 PM, Howard Weeks wrote:
> I don't claim to be any kind of "condenser" expert but here are a few
> comments on the subject:
>
> 1. Back in the early 50s, I worked weekends for an old car/tractor
> mechanic. He checked condensers by using a kick test. Basically, he put
> the subject condenser in series with a small amp meter and placed the
> combination across a 6 or 12 volt battery momentarily. If you got a good
> kick on the amp meter and then nothing, the cap was good. No kick meant
> it was bad. Any continuous current meant it was also bad. Be sure to
> discharge the cap by shorting it before connecting across the battery.
> This test always worked for him.  I have an old piece of test equipment
> here that also checks a cap in the same manner. Some people can do this
> test with one of the older design ohmmeters. The new digital meters will
> not do the test.
>
> 2. I have been restoring antique radios in some form for most of my life
> and I have a lot of both old and late model test equipment designed for
> evaluating capacitors. Most of the ignition caps that I have checked
> measured approximately .17 - .2 microfarads in capacity. The choice of
> this capacity is a function of the coil design and if properly selected
> by the designer, the system should run indefinitely and not pit the
> points. If they pit badly, it is a sign that the coil and cap are not
> properly matched or selected. Which side of the points gets pitted is a
> sign of whether the cap is high or low in value for a particular
> combination of cap and coil. I am not trying to say that they have to be
> a "matched set" - just that a gross change in cap or coil type could be
> a problem. Most of the old ignition reference books from back in the 20s
> and 30s do a pretty good job of explaining how they work and how to test
> them. I can't honestly say that I have ever found a truly bad condenser.
> But I have had hell with the point resistance (don't know where they
> were made)!
>
> 3. When point are closed, they should measure less than 1 ohm -
> preferably close to zero ohms ever time they close for the ignition to
> work properly. If they measure 2 - 5 ohms, the system will either not
> run or it will be very sick. Same for magneto or standard ignition
> system. Many of the cheaper ohm meters will not accurately measure
> resistances below a few ohms.
>
> 4. The resistors that are in series with some coils are designed to
> limit the current through the coils when the engine is running. The DC
> current through the coils should be in the range of 3 - 6 amps or so
> when the engine is running. RPM and dwell settings will affect the
> amount of current to some extent. If a coil designed for a resistor is
> run without one, it will run for awhile but the coil will overheat and
> usually quit fairly quickly. Putting a momentary short across that
> resistor when starting the engine would produce a hotter spark for
> starting purposes.
>
> 5. Pay some attention to the polarity of the coil connection to the
> distributor. If you have a negative ground battery system, the "-" end
> of the coil should be connected to the distributor. The "+" end of the
> coil goes to the distributor if a you have a positive ground system.
>
> Don't know if any of this spiel is useful to anyone but it accurately
> describes my experience with Kettering ignition systems.
>
> Howard in GA
>
> On 8/9/2015 2:30 PM, Mogrits wrote:
>> I don't disagree with you on anything you said, except the resistor has
>> been bypassed on my tractor and it uses a coil that needs no resistor.
>> Substituting for the new, correct condensor produces a spark. The new
>> condensor does not. So there is definitely a need to replace that
>> particular condensor.
>>
>> On Sun, Aug 9, 2015 at 2:13 PM, Ron Cook <ron at lakeport-1.com> wrote:
>>
>>> There is usually no reason to replace a condenser.  Starting problems
>>> with Ford N tractors can usually be traced to the resistor.
>>> And I certainly do agree on the crap that is sold these days being no
>>> good right out of the box.  I quit going to TSC years ago for that very
>>> reason.  So too, did many.  TSC closed their store in Sioux City.
>>> It has actually helped my generator/starter repair business a little.
>>> The do it yourself bunch have lost their cheap parts supplier, which
>>> really were not cheap anyway considering you always have to buy two or
>>> more to fix the problem.
>>> Ron Cook
>>> Salix, IA
>>>
>>> On 8/9/2015 5:52 AM, Cecil R Bearden wrote:
>>>> I went through the same thing with a fence charger 2 weeks ago.  Worked
>>>> all afternoon in 105 heat index to get wire up around yard to keep pet
>>>> bull in.  Had a good charger in a tool box next to the other elect
>>>> service at the South Barn.  It would barely spark.  Dug out the brand
>>>> new Zareba charger from TSC that had never been used, it had no spark.
>>>> Took the Harbor Freight solar one off the back fence and it was shot.
>>>> Took the Parmak solar fencer off the divider fence for the horses and it
>>>> worked!!!
>>>>
>>>> I certainly hope the pertronix system fixes your problem...Condensers
>>>> are being made in China or some other 3rd world country, so quality is a
>>>> problem...
>>>>
>>>> Cecil in OKla
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
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