[AT] Need help troubleshooting engine/compressor

Tue Aug 11 15:37:34 PDT 2015

Following along with what Bo said about Never Ever putting a body
part on a screw compressor intake and on my similar comments earlier.

The screw compressors are basically the same device as the roots blowers
that are on the old 2 stroke Detroit Diesels and on a lot of race cars.  I 
once
heard about a mechanic that leaned across a running detroit with part of the
air intake disassembled.  His belly got too close, the blower sucked his 
belly
against it and then in it and eviscerated him, killing him on the spot.

A centrifugal blower is a different story.  You can "unload" it by partially 
or
fully blocking the air intake.  I have a huge centrifugal blower powered by 
a
5 hp 3 phase motor that is hooked to a dust collector cabinet (industrial 
size).
It has a butterfly on the outlet of the blower and I have to partially shut 
it, unloading
the blower, in order for the 5 hp motor to start and get up to speed but 
that
only applies to centrifugal blowers.  Roots blowers or screw compressors are 
a totally
different animal and they WILL HURT OR KILL YOU.

Bo, I'm not at all familiar with that Mazda powered Sullair but I've been 
around a lot of
Sullair compressors and they do a fine job!  I prefer LeRoi compressors but 
will take a
Sulair with no hesitation.

Charlie

-----Original Message----- 
From: Bo Hinch
Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2015 2:19 PM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: Re: [AT] Need help troubleshooting engine/compressor

Cecil , those were some very nice little compressors and from my past
experience with them , I would first remove the carburetor , look in the
barrel ( engine side ) right next to the butterfly and you should see at
least three very tiny little holes .Pull a bristle out of a wire brush and
use it to ream / clean out holes and with carburator apart , blow all air
passages from inside out with air pressure or carburetor cleaner .
After reassembling carb. , I would remove air intake cover. I think you
will find it stuck open ( should be closed with little to no air pressure )
and determine why it is stuck open such as a blown o`ring hanging up or
whatever . You also have a regulator valve that operates the air intake .
Just follow the small line going into the air intake manifold . I think it
also has a diaphram in it that does go bad . Also I disagree with quote
from your previous email
((( The engine must start under load until the
compressor reaches 40psi, then some regulation begins.)))
Last but not least , NEVER , NEVER put any part of a human body over the
compressor air intake .If I can get some junk moved around , I think I
still have a manual on this unit which would be very helpful to you .
Bo Hinch in s/w louisiana

On Tue, Aug 11, 2015 at 8:03 AM, Cecil R Bearden <crbearden at copper.net>
wrote:

> The cold natured problem seems to be typical of these.   The factorey
> says I should have an idle warm up valve, there never was one .....
>
> Cecil in OKla
>
>
>
> On 8/11/2015 7:18 AM, Doug Tallman wrote:
> > Cecil, It sounds like carburetion issues or a big vacuum leak. I'd think
> > you would hear the hiss of a leak that big. Maybe try spraying a little
> > carb cleaner around the manifold and see if it picks up. Doug T
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On 8/11/2015 7:09 AM, Cecil R Bearden wrote:
> >> Sullair 185 w/ ford/Mazda 4cyl gas engine.  Compressor always has been
> >> cold natured.  Had to be completely warmed up before choke could be 
> >> shut
> >> off.  Open air line valve and engine would die without choke on at 
> >> least
> >> half way.  Working fine a month ago.   Now, Engine tries to start and
> >> gets up to idle speed but compressor is loading engine and it cannot 
> >> get
> >> up to operating speed.  If compressor could be disconnected from 
> >> engine,
> >> it would get up to operating speed. Have replaced fuel pump, and plug
> >> wires.  Spark plug had some surface carbon but not really gunked up.
> >> took air intake elbow off of compressor and tried to cut off air intake
> >> to allow engine to start, but it nearly sucked my hand into the pipe.
> >> In the past distributor,ignition control box, and coil have been
> >> replaced.  Have worked on engines gas, propane and diesel for 50 years
> >> and this one has me beat......  This is the reason I like Diesel!!!
> >>
> >> I use this for sandblasting and blowing off the round baler.  Right 
> >> now,
> >> the baler has some hay lodged between the belts and the rollers on the
> >> back side and it has the baler bound up.  The only way to get this out
> >> is to use a lot of high pressure air and cut the hay out with the air.
> >> Or, cut the belts pull them out with the loader and re-splice.  I did
> >> not blow off the baler last time i used it, it was trying to rain after
> >> I put the new bearing in that was causing the fires.  The hay builds up
> >> in the back above the top of the bale chamber, and causes the belts to
> >> stick.  Really dry hay is the worst problem...
> >>
> >>
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