[AT] Disk Plow or One-Way Plow

charlie hill charliehill at embarqmail.com
Tue Sep 2 07:59:26 PDT 2014


Ah, interesting.  I'll have to study on that.  
Have you thought about pulling a ripper or subsoiler 
over the field?  I know, it's hard to pull.

Charlie

-----Original Message----- 
From: Cecil R Bearden 
Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2014 10:09 AM 
To: Antique tractor email discussion group 
Subject: Re: [AT] Disk Plow or One-Way Plow 

Charlie:
JD used to have a brochure or book, etc.  that showed that the center of 
the plow draft had to be lined up with the center of the tractor.  such 
as a 3-16 plow is 48 inches of cut.  Then you take 1/2 of the 48, and 
add 1/4 the width of the single plow, to allow for the furrow wheel 
tracking the outside of the furrow.  That means that the inside of the 
furrow wheel should be 28  (24 + 4) inches from the center of the 
tractor.  I was trying to pull the 4-16plow with my NH  TS110, and the 
wheel spacing is 44 inches inside the tires.
With the above formula, then I could only pull 36 inches of plow width 
or 3-12's.  My understanding is that the first plow cuts extra width to 
account for the packing of the plowed soil from the outside of the 
furrow wheel.  I have 18.4-30 tires on my NH so I really have a wide 
tire in that 16 in furrow.  I also have read where you set the front 
wheel spacing on the 1/2 of the plow width to make the front furrow 
wheel hold along the furrow to stop some side draft.

My 4-16 plow requires 72 inches inside spacing of the wheels.  I don't 
see where I can get that with my wheel/rim combination. (with the above 
formula for tread width.)

I also have to plow about 8 inches deep to get underthe hardpan the 
trucks have created.

Cecil in OKla



On 9/2/2014 8:39 AM, charlie hill wrote:
> Cecil, maybe my memory is flawed on this but I always thought
> the additional width of a 4 bottom plow compared to a 3 bottom
> was to the left.  The way I remember it the leading plow on 4 bottom
> or a 3 bottom or a 2 bottom for that matter track in the same spot
> just inside the normal wheel spacing of the right hand wheels.
> Maybe I'm not remembering right or I'm not understanding your
> problem but I don't see how wheel spacing would affect it except that
> you need the left side wheels out further to help with traction.
>
> Comments please?
>
> Charlie
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Cecil R Bearden
> Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2014 8:16 AM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: Re: [AT] Disk Plow or One-Way Plow
>
> I need to find a disk plow or a One-Way or Dry land plow.   This summer
> I allowed an oil field services company to apply water based drilling
> fluids on my wheat field.  I had chiseled this ground about 2 weeks
> earlier.  This field had been in no-till for 4 years. no-till here has
> not produced any winter pasture.  I also have an abundance of tickle
> grass and Silver leaf nightshade.  The drilling fluids killed the
> nightshade.
> I now need to turn everything under, not just disk it and mix it up.
> The company appears to not finish this job as they were supposed to disk
> the field afterwards.  Since this company also ran their heavy loaded
> trucks over the field while it was wet and tilled up, I now have a 30
> acre concrete pad for a wheat field.  However, when wet it is as slick
> as snot on a glass doorknob.  This stuff has to be turned under and done
> within a month to get the wheat sowed.
>
>
> It appears that disk plows have been sent to Mexico, and One ways have
> been scrapped.  The D$#%^ scrappers have really screwed up finding
> machinery in this country.
> I have a 4 bottom 3 point plow that I hooked up to my TS110 New
> Holland.  I now realize that I needed to widen the tractor wheels to fit
> the plow.  The front plow bottom kept shearing the pin.
> I may have to drop off the last moldboard and plow with 3 bottoms
> because I don't think I can widen the tractor wheels enough to pull the
> 4 bottoms.   I also need to find plow shins for a Massey Ferguson plow.
> These were welded up and are now worn out.
>
> I had bought a John Deere 4-16 semi-mount plow, but it does not use a
> top link, and  my NH tractor uses the top link for draft control. My
> other big tractor with draft sensing on the lift arms ( 2-105 White) has
> severe leaks on the lift cylinders, and the lift arms were taken off.
> My 7030 Allis has not been used in 3 years and the A/C needs to be fixed
> as the cab is just too small to drive without A/C.  And to really make
> things tense, I am still baling hay.
>
> My large field of hay (140 acres) that had a lot of clover in the
> Johnson grass is now wilting.  The Hydrostat drives on the JD 2270 I
> bought this spring and worked on for 3 weeks, wore out and I had to find
> a salvage one.  I hitched up the 1340 Hesston that had the drive shaft
> problem last year, and built a transition plate between the outlet chute
> and the crimper.  It now makes a good windrow, but when I shortened
> square male shaft on the machine end of the drive shaft, It is now about
> 2 inches too short when the machine is swung to the left of the tractor
> all the way.  The tractor also has the wheels spaced too narrow and runs
> on the windrow when making the next cut.  This creates some loss when
> the baler picks up the windrow.  I also an having a problem getting the
> 1340 to cut higher.  This is a rotary cutter, and I have spaced the lift
> cylinders up to raise the cutting height, but not high enough yet, I
> have run out of cylinder spacers.  This creates some dust in the hay.
> Since I spent so much time at a neighbors field helping him get it cut,
> my hay is now going to be cow hay and probably lost over 60% in volume
> and quality.
>
> Since Dad is not around any more, I need some advice and some help. I
> really did not know how much help my 85 yr old father was giving me.  I
> sure do miss him.....
>
>
> Cecil in OKla
>
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