[AT] here I go again

[Ron Cook]

John,
     Once again, thanks for the information.  I, no doubt, will have 
some questions on down the line.
This tractor will not be working all that hard, but I do want it up in 
good shape.  So far everything is pretty good that I have looked at, 
with the exception of the pto/belt pully not staying in gear. Something 
is worn in there.  Rocking the tractor revealed very little play in the 
axle bearings.  You can hear a clunk but not see much movement.  There 
has to be some,  however.  The steering gearbox is tight with no up and 
down movement where the tie rods attach.  It is, however leaking some 
lube at the bottom.  Brakes seem quite good.  The radiator has been to a 
radiator shop and is very nice with perfect straight fins.  New belts 
installed and evidence the fan has been oiled.  I will, however check 
that.  There is no water pump.  It seems odd to me that there is not a 
temperature gauge for coolant.  It must have been discarded for some 
reason.  I assume it came with one.  There is a temp gauge for the 
hydraulic oil.  It may not work, though.  It looks pretty tough, but I 
have not worked it enough for it to be showing any temperature. The 
engine does smoke just a little until it is warmed up, so it probably 
uses a little oil.  The ring gear has a bad spot.  The fuse holder cap 
and fuse are gone.  The bad headlight wiring is probably the reason for 
that.  The tractor came to NW Iowa from Michigan. That is all the 
history I have.  I don't think it has done a tremendous amount of field 
work, but maybe quite a bit of belt work and a whole bunch of sitting in 
a shed.  Everything is fairly tight and straight, including the 
cultivator but not a thing is shiny. The sweeps are worn, but not really 
worn out.  The steering wheel is even very good with the exception of 
someone's initials carved into it.  Not much wear on the pedals or the 
platform or the notches on the throttle.  Seat covering is gone.  Car 
tires on the front but I have a good set of tractor fronts for it.  
Rears are very good. More info as I get the time to spend on it.

Ron Cook
Salix, IA
On 7/21/2014 10:13 PM, jtchall at nc.rr.com wrote:
> Ask away if you need help on it. We've probably worked on more of the offset
> series Farmall than everything else combined. Never seen but a handful with
> the sliding drawbar, I think they used them pulling a disc harrow?  I can't
> tell you what the cultivator model is, Al Jones or my dad could. Unless you
> broke something, you just went to the dealer and said hey I need one of
> _____ and they just grabbed them from the bin. At the dealer dad worked for,
> they kept the cuffs and wedge bolts in arms length of the counter so they
> didn't have to walk so much---that’s how many they sold. Those were the only
> parts I can remember that were intentionally placed out of order in the
> parts bin other than items that were kept on display shelves.
>
> One thing to look for is to see if a water pump was added. Most around here
> had this done. I think they used the one off a 100, but don't hold me to it.
> This would also mean you have a different belt (obviously).
>
> Walk up beside each rear wheel and try to rock the tractor sideways. If it
> rocks more than tire deflection you have a mess. The inside bearing gets
> loose and will spin on the shaft and in the final drive housing. Its so
> costly everyone here has been rigging repairs to tighten them up for
> decades. Depending on how bad it is depends on what you can do to fix it. It
> doesn't have to be perfect to work---especially when you price fixing it
> correctly.
>
> When you turn the steering wheel, does the arm the tie rods hook to raise up
> and down? Those steering boxes can get expensive as well. If its tight and
> leaking grease from under the bottom bad, you can just fill it full of
> bearing grease until you have time to tear it down, not a 5 minute job.
>
> If brakes are bad they aren't too bad to change. The right side can be
> changed without removing the operators platform if you make a tool to pull
> the seal and you don’t' have arms so big you can't reach inside the axle
> tube.  We've always pulled them this way, but have learned several tricks
> and made tools to do so.
>
> Use Hy-tran in the hydraulics, not 30w like on an M. If you change it there
> is a metal strainer inside the resevoir. Look on the left side and you'll
> see a square about 2-3 inches held on with 4 bolts. You will need a new
> gasket. If memory serves me correct, let the hydraulics all the way down and
> pull the big filler plug on the left. Fill it full. If you think you have
> overfilled it you can operate the hydraulics a couple times with the cap off
> and it will push out the excess fluid.
>
> There should be a large flat head screw in the side of the fan. Position the
> screw horizontal, take it out and squirt some  oil in it. Let the excess run
> out before you put the screw back in. If the seal is bad, all the oil will
> run out, but at least you tried!
>
> John Hall
>
>
>