[AT] here I go again

[jtchall at nc.rr.com]

As far as I know, all Super A's should have the standard PTO shaft. Cubs 
have the small one, and it turns backwards.
Many people take the belt pulley off if not in use, I think you have to 
install a spacer pipe over the shaft if you do, not certain. Those leak 
terribly.

Around here, disc hillers or "buzzard wings" are what most folks use for 
bedding. Then you can switch over to as many as 3 shanks per side with small 
wind feet or straight shovels for cultivating. Most however either stay with 
buzzard wings or switch to a set of scratchers, 3 or 4 shank spring 
cultivators. The ones around here were made by King, don't know if you can 
still buy them or parts for them. In the 70's and 80's rolling cultivators 
made by Lilliston.  They would also move dirt around the plants but not very 
aggresively. Everyone here ran the wide sweeps on the back. Width was 
generally determined by your row height, but they were always wide enough to 
clea rout your tracks.

Watch out for the left side front shanks hitting the oil pan. There were 2 
length shanks if I remember right. A long one would hit the pan when you 
raise up. Most of those tractors here have dents in the oil pan.

Take a look at some of this stuff Agri-supply carries, especially buzzard 
wings--I'm pretty certain that is a regional term.

http://mower-blades.agrisupply.com/search#w=buzzard%20wings&asug=


http://mower-blades.agrisupply.com/search#w=disc%20hillers&asug=

http://www.agrisupply.com/cultivator-wedge-clamp-made-to-fit-ihc/p/82948/

http://www.agrisupply.com/wedge-bolt/p/82947/

http://www.agrisupply.com/cultivator-shank/p/38854/

John Hall


-----Original Message----- 
From: Ron Cook
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2014 5:40 PM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: Re: [AT] here I go again

John,
     My Super A did not come from tobacco country so it is not suffering
from the maladies that would result from hours and hours of that kind of
work.  As a matter of fact, I don't think it ever did much of anything
except sit in a shed somewhere and probably run a feed grinder or
something on a belt.  The cultivator is a little worn, but there is no
way knowing how long it has actually been on that tractor.   It really
is a very nice little machine.  Just old. But much younger than I:-) :-) .
     I got a chance to check the left fender.  I see it is a place to
collect problems as you say.  Mine is good, so far anyway.  As far as
bedding, that is not done in this part of the country.  While I don't
currently have any, my choice will be disc hillers.  I have them for my
John Deere cultivator, but those shanks are 1 3/8 diameter, and likely
will be in use when I need some for the Farmall S A.  Hillers are used
to hill the corn during lay-by and large diameter hillers would work
good for hilling potatoes.  Those wide sweeps are probably available
around these parts although I have not used any that wide.  The ones I
have are more like 12 inches or so. I like the cultivation to happen
ahead of the tires  so I will have one 1/2 sweep or hiller and two
sweeps on each side of the row.   I plan to use the two spring tooth
shovels on the rear gang to scratch out the wheel tracks.  Mine are John
Deere and are larger than what the A would use, but I think I can make
things work alright.  If not, I could use shanks and sweeps or find some
smaller spring tooth units from a salvage yard or parts place.  My rows
are 40 inch.  I have a feeling this little unit is going to turn into
just what I need.  Especially for the potatoes.  I currently cultivate
the sweetcorn with a 2-row John Deere.  And.....it might get replaced on
the smaller patches.  We will find out next year.

Are there any suppliers that offer a standard diameter PTO shaft to
install in the Super A?  Or would I need to use an adapter like I did on
my Allis Chalmers B?  I would use the Super A to power a grain auger
from time to time, I think.  Of course it needs repairs somewhere in
there so it will stay in gear.  Probably some bad bearings from either
low oil level or water rusting things or both. All other things that are
in motion... finals, transmission gears, etc. seem to be fine.

Ron Cook
Salix, IA
On 7/23/2014 4:54 PM, jtchall at nc.rr.com wrote:
> Don't ever recall seeing one with a temp gauge. Most of the hydraulic temp
> gauges can't be read and have had the cable cut so it was easier to work 
> on
> the reservoir. Dad told me he only saw the gauge go up one time and that 
> was
> when using a 2 row horse drawn corn planter he had rigged up in some very
> short rows.
>
> You should be able to get a seat cover for around $20.
>
> Agri-suply is a good place for rear sweeps. Not familiar enough with ag
> practices in other areas to know how readily available the big sweeps 
> are--I
> think we run something in the 18-22" range. What do you have for bedding
> rows, disc hillers or "buzzard wings".
>
> Take a look where your left fender bolts to the transmission. There is a
> pocket between the fender and trans housing that will collect trash and 
> then
> water. This is made worse if the tractor was used to put out fertilizer in
> big fields and the operator rode a spare bag of fertilizer by the 
> gearshift.
> If your fender is blistered or cracked you can fix it by welding a
> reinforcement plate to it. Its in behind the tire so you don't really 
> notice
> it unless you are looking for it. This was a real problem on fast hitch
> tractors using heavy implements--theer is a LOT of stress on that fender.
>
> John
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ron Cook
> Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2014 1:08 AM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: Re: [AT] here I go again
>
> John,
>       Once again, thanks for the information.  I, no doubt, will have
> some questions on down the line.
> This tractor will not be working all that hard, but I do want it up in
> good shape.  So far everything is pretty good that I have looked at,
> with the exception of the pto/belt pully not staying in gear. Something
> is worn in there.  Rocking the tractor revealed very little play in the
> axle bearings.  You can hear a clunk but not see much movement.  There
> has to be some,  however.  The steering gearbox is tight with no up and
> down movement where the tie rods attach.  It is, however leaking some
> lube at the bottom.  Brakes seem quite good.  The radiator has been to a
> radiator shop and is very nice with perfect straight fins.  New belts
> installed and evidence the fan has been oiled.  I will, however check
> that.  There is no water pump.  It seems odd to me that there is not a
> temperature gauge for coolant.  It must have been discarded for some
> reason.  I assume it came with one.  There is a temp gauge for the
> hydraulic oil.  It may not work, though.  It looks pretty tough, but I
> have not worked it enough for it to be showing any temperature. The
> engine does smoke just a little until it is warmed up, so it probably
> uses a little oil.  The ring gear has a bad spot.  The fuse holder cap
> and fuse are gone.  The bad headlight wiring is probably the reason for
> that.  The tractor came to NW Iowa from Michigan. That is all the
> history I have.  I don't think it has done a tremendous amount of field
> work, but maybe quite a bit of belt work and a whole bunch of sitting in
> a shed.  Everything is fairly tight and straight, including the
> cultivator but not a thing is shiny. The sweeps are worn, but not really
> worn out.  The steering wheel is even very good with the exception of
> someone's initials carved into it.  Not much wear on the pedals or the
> platform or the notches on the throttle.  Seat covering is gone.  Car
> tires on the front but I have a good set of tractor fronts for it.
> Rears are very good. More info as I get the time to spend on it.
>
> Ron Cook
> Salix, IA
>
>
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