[AT] Drill bits

Bill Thompson billt at agiftofmaine.com
Tue Oct 15 08:25:15 PDT 2013


John, thank you for the advice. I never knew that, made in the USA is the
one to by.   Bill Thompson

-----Original Message-----
From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
[mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of Dick Day
Sent: Monday, October 14, 2013 10:41 PM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: Re: [AT] Drill bits

John, you must be physic  :) I was just going to ask what bits to buy. 
Whether or not I go with a sharpener or not, I must replace most of my bits.

Great advice below, I will start shopping.

Thanks

Dick

--------------------------------------------------
From: <jtchall at nc.rr.com>
Sent: Monday, October 14, 2013 9:06 PM
To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Subject: Re: [AT] Drill bits

> Never used a Drill Dr but have heard good comments. Speaking as a 
> machinist, buy decent quality drill bits to begin with. China and 
> India have yet to make a real cutting tool of any sort. Stores like 
> Sears and the big box home improvement stores normally rip you off on 
> drill bits, at least they were overpriced the last time I checked one 
> of them.  The best place to buy drills is from somewhere like MSC, 
> Travers, or Enco. The "made in USA"
> bits
> those places carry should be fine or you can step up a bit and buy 
> something made by Cleveland, PTD, or Nachi. Most drills homeowners 
> have are jobber length, 118 deg. point. Black Oxide or Bright finish 
> should be fine, unless you really want to spend the money on a set of 
> coated drills. Sharpen the bit before you burn it up, in other words 
> as soon as it begins to dull. If the drill is really dull, consider 
> first sharpening it on your pedestal grinder, then put it in your 
> Drill Dr.--you'll save a lot of wear on the grinding wheel in the 
> drill sharpener--at least that is my policy for using the drill 
> grinder at work (it's a large floor model).
>
> Regarding sharpening by hand, go ahead and try. Use a new drill bit as 
> an example and grind the dull one until it looks like the new one. For 
> what it is worth, most people can't sharpen a bit by hand, and of 
> those that can, most of them don't do it properly. It takes a lot of 
> practice to develop this skill. Outside of a manufacturing 
> environment, you're probably only interested in drilling clearance 
> holes for bolts anyway.
>
> John Hall
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dick Day
> Sent: Sunday, October 13, 2013 11:07 PM
> To: atis
> Subject: [AT] Drill bits
>
> I guarantee that everyone on this list knows way more than I do about 
> tools.
> I assume that, like most things, you get what you pay for.  Years ago, 
> I bought what I thought was a very good (expensive, at least for this
> wallet)
> set of drill bits, that went from just thicker than a hair to 1/2"  
> They performed well but over the years they have pretty much worn out, 
> and I hate to admit it, I broke a few and lost one.  When drilling any 
> type of metal, I always have a can of 3-in-1 Oil with me and use it 
> liberally.
>
> Does anyone use a Drill Doctor (or similar piece of equipment) to 
> lengthen the life of your bits?  It looks like they range in cost from $50
to $250.
> Before I invest in a new set of bits, any thoughts on renewing verses 
> replacing?
>
> Thanks
>
> Dick
>
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