[AT] Flat Belt Implements 101

[Mike]

Alligator (Flexco) bought out Clipper a few years back, but all the 
products remain the same. If you go the clipper route make sure tho use 
the proper hook for the thickness of the belt. Too large of a hook will 
make the belt crack right behind the laces. Same with the pound in 
Alligator style strips, bigger is not better in this case. I would also 
suggest calling a local belting company, as they will have access to the 
entire Flexco line. They may even have a remnant piece of belt they will 
sell you cheap. We used to charge $1.00 per inch of width to supply and 
install the lace. If the laces are set properly catching won't be as 
much of an issue if you need to twist your belt. Were you run into 
problems is where someone crams a #5 hook into a belt that requires a 
#3. The hooks protrude too far through the belt and the sharp point can 
be felt. A properly laced belt is when the hooks go through the belt 
while being crimped in the lacer and then pull back slightly, you should 
be able to see the hooks but not feel them.

Mike M

On 10/2/2013 11:14 PM, jtchall at nc.rr.com wrote:
> If the belt is too slack you can and will throw it off.  I don't like to see
> them start waving either.
> We use dressing sometimes if the belt is under heavy load and running on
> steel faced pulleys.
> I like longer belts myself. Ask around if anyone in your club has a Clipper
> belt lacer. Lacing comes in 2 styles that I am aware of. The first is for
> use in a Clipper belt lacer. The lacing comes in various sizes, we normally
> use 3, 4 and 5. There is also a style that you hammer together (I believe
> one of the brands was Alligator). I've never put in any of that style, got a
> couple sticks here somewhere that were for repairing the belts on a Hawk
> tobacco looper I think. I don't think it is quite as preferred for high
> speed applications.
>
> Some applications require you to twist the belt to get the machine turning
> in the right direction.
>
> If you want to get fancy, google a mobious (I think that is the right term)
> strip and put your belt together this way--it wears all sides of the
> belt---we never have.
>
> I've only got one endless belt, we use it to pull the thresher or silage
> cutter.
>
> It’s a heck of a lot more fun listening to a tractor engine under full load
> on the belt than in a tractor pull.
>
> John Hall
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Al Jones
> Sent: Wednesday, October 02, 2013 9:41 PM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: [AT] Flat Belt Implements 101
>
> I recently acquired a #6 IH hammer mill in pretty good shape.
>
> These mills are driven by a long, flat belt. I"ve never run anything with a
> belt pulley before, so I"d like some input from those who have been there
> and done that. My plan is to demonstrate it at shows. Here"s what I "think"
> I know:
>
> 1. Long belts stay on better if they run slack
>
> 2. Everything has to be lined up just right.
>
> 3. You have to put belt dressing on the belt
>
> 4. It is cooler than heck watching a belt driven machine run.
>
> That"s about it. It looks like (I have not measured the pulley) I need a 6"
> wide belt. Looks like there are plenty of different lengths on Ebay. How
> long a belt should I look for? Basically, I need a "belts for dummies"
> lesson.
>
> I plan on running it with a smaller tractor like a Farmall Super A. (I don"t
> plan to crowd it too much) Does the size tractor I use help determine the
> length/type of belt?
>
> Any help appreciated...
>
>
>
> Al
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at