[AT] Flat Belt Implements 101

[rlgoss at twc.com]

Humm.  How times change.  The main PTO for the mower on the John Deere L was a flat belt driven by a pulley that bolted in two pieces to the drive shaft between the clutch and the transmission. The only way to install the drive belt was with a belt splice that used a rawhide pin to hold the splice together.  Very shortly after Dad bought the tractor, he bought the belt splicer.  It came by mail order from Sears. Many, many years later, I saw a similar belt lacer/splicer/tool in an antique mall in Colorado.  It's one of those things I just could not live without, and it followed me home.  The original 6" splicer was NOT stored where it was supposed to be.  As a result, it survived the barn fire that took all the other equipment that we owned.  My older brother still lives on the home place, and he has that tool.  The one I bought in Colorado, is only 4 inches wide, but the nature of how it operates (in a bench vise) you can use it for any width of splice.

Larry





---- charlie hill <charliehill at embarqmail.com> wrote: 
> John, I went to the Tractor Supply web site last
night to see if they showed the belting and they didn't
but I am positive I saw it in the store.  In fact it was the store
out on Al's end of Jacksonville, NC.  However, the web site
does show the lacing and the lacer tool.  I'm not sure now what
type it is.  It's not expensive.  The tool was about 150 bucks I think.
I don't know why the belting didn't show up.  Could be the way I searched
for it or it could be they just don't show it online or maybe it's
something stores carry based on demand and not in their regular line.

Charlie

If the belt is too slack you can and will throw it off.  I don't like to see
them start waving either.
We use dressing sometimes if the belt is under heavy load and running on
steel faced pulleys.
I like longer belts myself. Ask around if anyone in your club has a Clipper
belt lacer. Lacing comes in 2 styles that I am aware of. The first is for
use in a Clipper belt lacer. The lacing comes in various sizes, we normally
use 3, 4 and 5. There is also a style that you hammer together (I believe
one of the brands was Alligator). I've never put in any of that style, got a
couple sticks here somewhere that were for repairing the belts on a Hawk
tobacco looper I think. I don't think it is quite as preferred for high
speed applications.

Some applications require you to twist the belt to get the machine turning
in the right direction.

If you want to get fancy, google a mobious (I think that is the right term)
strip and put your belt together this way--it wears all sides of the
belt---we never have.

I've only got one endless belt, we use it to pull the thresher or silage
cutter.

It’s a heck of a lot more fun listening to a tractor engine under full load
on the belt than in a tractor pull.

John Hall




-----Original Message----- 
From: Al Jones
Sent: Wednesday, October 02, 2013 9:41 PM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: [AT] Flat Belt Implements 101

I recently acquired a #6 IH hammer mill in pretty good shape.

These mills are driven by a long, flat belt. I"ve never run anything with a
belt pulley before, so I"d like some input from those who have been there
and done that. My plan is to demonstrate it at shows. Here"s what I "think"
I know:

1. Long belts stay on better if they run slack

2. Everything has to be lined up just right.

3. You have to put belt dressing on the belt

4. It is cooler than heck watching a belt driven machine run.

That"s about it. It looks like (I have not measured the pulley) I need a 6"
wide belt. Looks like there are plenty of different lengths on Ebay. How
long a belt should I look for? Basically, I need a "belts for dummies"
lesson.

I plan on running it with a smaller tractor like a Farmall Super A. (I don"t
plan to crowd it too much) Does the size tractor I use help determine the
length/type of belt?

Any help appreciated...



Al

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