[AT] Flat Belt Implements 101

[Greg Hass]

No. 1) Never saw a difference, however a longer belt with slack sure 
looks neat flopping around as the load changes. Also, a longer belt does 
not need to be as tight as the weight of it keeps it from slipping.
No.2) True, but once you're used to it , not as hard as you might think.
No.3 Not necessarily, several factors kick in, biggest being type and 
length of belt. A rubber belt is by far the best, when we had belt drive 
equipment all my dad got was an old leather belt. When it got dry or got 
rained on and got stiff you had to use belt dressing by the gallon. We 
once borrowed a rubber belt from an uncle; I thought I'd died and went 
to heaven. Also longer belts require less dressing as they stay tighter 
because of their weight. Also, fiber pulleys gripe better than steel; 
the super A's and super C'S had steel pulleys; but at a show and with 
the limited power of a super A that wouldn't be a problem.
No.4) A truer statement could not be made.
As for the length for a show I think someone else probably has a better 
idea as on the farm the rule was always the longer the better. One very 
important thing, unless you buy an endless belt, make sure the belt has 
wire lacing for the splice. For many years we had a belt driven silage 
blower. Our belt had alligator lacing; sort of large lacing you pounded 
in with a hammer. The blower had a rather large pulley thus we had 
little problem. However, as soon as we got the hammermill (all that I 
have seen have very small pulleys of about 4 inches.) That big lacing 
going around that little pulley would rip out every couple of weeks.My 
dad knew some people at the local grain elevator and they would install 
lacing like they used in their  cup elevators. That lasted 6 or 8 
months. Just a few of my opinions, your mileage may vary.
      Greg Hass