[AT] Tractor Shop weatherproofing

[Mike]

I agree Tyler, my shop is 20 x 40, and I hate working in the cold. I 
bought a 135,000 BTU torpedo heater that will run diesel or kerosene. It 
also has a thermostat on it. I go out there and turn it on, come inside 
have a cup of coffee and can go out in shirt sleeves if I want to. I 
HATE working in the cold, heat I can tolerate if I have the luxury of 
slowing down, but you just can't get away from the cold.

Mike M

On 11/23/2013 11:06 PM, Tyler Juranek wrote:
> Hey all.
>   I do not know anything about what andy has asked here, but just
> thought I'd throw my two cents in on heat.
>   In our shed here we have a heater that runs on diesle. It is a floor
> model, holds twenty gallons and has an electric igniter. If you fill
> it up to the brim, turn it on and wait for 15 minutes, you'll be
> taking every extra layer off you bundled up with to get outside.
>   Take Care,
>   Tyler Juranek
>   Council Bluffs, IA
>
> On 11/23/13, charlie hill <charliehill at embarqmail.com> wrote:
>> LOL,  no not really.  Pipe insulation wasn't dense enough to do
>> what I needed and I just kind of stumbled on those things in
>> Wally World or somewhere and said "hey this might work" and it did.
>> They actually can't be seen in my application until I take the hatch
>> cover off.
>>
>> Charlie
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Richard Fink Sr
>> Sent: Saturday, November 23, 2013 3:04 PM
>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>> Subject: Re: [AT] Tractor Shop weatherproofing
>>
>> Charlie you just used them because they were prearty than pipe insulation.
>> R Fink
>> PA
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "charlie hill" <charliehill at embarqmail.com>
>> To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>> Sent: Saturday, November 23, 2013 9:57 AM
>> Subject: Re: [AT] Tractor Shop weatherproofing
>>
>>
>>> Richard,  now that you mention that,  a few years ago I had
>>> to seal a hatch on a big industrial dust collector.  What I found
>>> and used that was cheap and effective was those foam "noodles"
>>> that kids play with in the swimming pool.  They are denser than
>>> pipe insulation but made about the same way and are pretty cheap.
>>> they also come in colors.
>>>
>>> Charlie
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Richard Fink Sr
>>> Sent: Saturday, November 23, 2013 7:30 AM
>>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>>> Subject: Re: [AT] Tractor Shop weatherproofing
>>>
>>> Andy a cheap fix i have found is get pipe insulation[what ever size you
>>> need] open it up and staple it to door or frame. Don,t last years but
>>> seal
>>> good as door opens or closes.
>>> R Fink
>>> PA
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> From: "Andy Glines" <andyglines at hotmail.com>
>>> To: "atis" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>>> Sent: Friday, November 22, 2013 2:20 PM
>>> Subject: [AT] Tractor Shop weatherproofing
>>>
>>>
>>>> My shop building is a 48X30 pole barn with a wood stove for heat.  I
>>>> don't
>>>> even bother to try working on windy winter days because the stove can't
>>>> warm up the space.  I'm working on sealing up the building better to
>>>> keep
>>>> the wind out.  The main problem is the sliding door on the north side of
>>>> the building.  Around here, the wind comes from the N-NW in the winter
>>>> directly against the door.  I'm looking for a way to seal the top of the
>>>> door without interfering with it operation.  I'm thinking that the
>>>> trimused around overhead doors could work good for this.  It is made
>>>> from
>>>> ridged vinyl about 2" wide with a 3/4" flexible seal that touches the
>>>> door.  What works for you?
>>>> _______________________________________________
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