[AT] Tractor Shop weatherproofing

[Tyler Juranek]

Hey all.
 I do not know anything about what andy has asked here, but just
thought I'd throw my two cents in on heat.
 In our shed here we have a heater that runs on diesle. It is a floor
model, holds twenty gallons and has an electric igniter. If you fill
it up to the brim, turn it on and wait for 15 minutes, you'll be
taking every extra layer off you bundled up with to get outside.
 Take Care,
 Tyler Juranek
 Council Bluffs, IA

On 11/23/13, charlie hill <charliehill at embarqmail.com> wrote:
> LOL,  no not really.  Pipe insulation wasn't dense enough to do
> what I needed and I just kind of stumbled on those things in
> Wally World or somewhere and said "hey this might work" and it did.
> They actually can't be seen in my application until I take the hatch
> cover off.
>
> Charlie
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Richard Fink Sr
> Sent: Saturday, November 23, 2013 3:04 PM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: Re: [AT] Tractor Shop weatherproofing
>
> Charlie you just used them because they were prearty than pipe insulation.
> R Fink
> PA
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "charlie hill" <charliehill at embarqmail.com>
> To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Saturday, November 23, 2013 9:57 AM
> Subject: Re: [AT] Tractor Shop weatherproofing
>
>
>> Richard,  now that you mention that,  a few years ago I had
>> to seal a hatch on a big industrial dust collector.  What I found
>> and used that was cheap and effective was those foam "noodles"
>> that kids play with in the swimming pool.  They are denser than
>> pipe insulation but made about the same way and are pretty cheap.
>> they also come in colors.
>>
>> Charlie
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Richard Fink Sr
>> Sent: Saturday, November 23, 2013 7:30 AM
>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>> Subject: Re: [AT] Tractor Shop weatherproofing
>>
>> Andy a cheap fix i have found is get pipe insulation[what ever size you
>> need] open it up and staple it to door or frame. Don,t last years but
>> seal
>> good as door opens or closes.
>> R Fink
>> PA
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Andy Glines" <andyglines at hotmail.com>
>> To: "atis" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>> Sent: Friday, November 22, 2013 2:20 PM
>> Subject: [AT] Tractor Shop weatherproofing
>>
>>
>>> My shop building is a 48X30 pole barn with a wood stove for heat.  I
>>> don't
>>> even bother to try working on windy winter days because the stove can't
>>> warm up the space.  I'm working on sealing up the building better to
>>> keep
>>> the wind out.  The main problem is the sliding door on the north side of
>>> the building.  Around here, the wind comes from the N-NW in the winter
>>> directly against the door.  I'm looking for a way to seal the top of the
>>> door without interfering with it operation.  I'm thinking that the
>>> trimused around overhead doors could work good for this.  It is made
>>> from
>>> ridged vinyl about 2" wide with a 3/4" flexible seal that touches the
>>> door.  What works for you?
>>> _______________________________________________
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>>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>>
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