[AT] OT: Rosebuds! The oxi-acetylene kind...

Stephen Offiler soffiler at gmail.com
Fri Nov 15 10:58:09 PST 2013


Tom, I submit that re-case-hardening is a trickier proposition than
re-heat-treating conventionally (thru-hardening).  We were talking about
gears, so, case-hardening concerns apply.  You make excellent points
regarding the need to know what kind of steel you're dealing with, not to
mention your opinions on the notion of building a fire in a transmission
case to free the gears from the shafts!

SO


On Fri, Nov 15, 2013 at 1:32 PM, Tom <tmartin at xtra.co.nz> wrote:

> You are right, steel can be re-heated treated. However there is a large
> caveat.
> you need to know exactly what the steel is. If you've got a spark
> spectrometer handy
> life becomes easier in that all you have to do is match the analysis to a
> particular
> spec of steel and then work to the recommendations for that steel. Of
> course
> steel can get burnt, in that case it's scrap.
>
>
> That aside, the very idea of heating that way, strikes me of someone
> rather bereft
> of mechanical aptitude and knowledge/training.
>
> Tom
>
>
>
> >________________________________
> > From: charlie hill <charliehill at embarqmail.com>
> >To: Antique tractor email discussion group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> >Sent: Saturday, 16 November 2013 1:19 AM
> >Subject: Re: [AT] OT: Rosebuds! The oxi-acetylene  kind...
> >
> >
> >Possibly Tom.  I really don't know for sure about that.  Just
> >know what I've seen done and what I've done.  As for the
> >effect on the temper of the steel and the metallurgy, I won't
> >argue with you about that.  You may well be correct.
> >However, they can be heat treated again.
> >
> >Charlie
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Tom
> >Sent: Friday, November 15, 2013 1:03 AM
> >To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> >Subject: Re: [AT] OT: Rosebuds! The oxi-acetylene kind...
> >
> >Only one problem, Charlie, the gear teeth will be the first to heat.
> >So they will lose their temper before the hubs will be hot enough to
> >free on the shafts.
> >
> >Tom
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>________________________________
> >> From: charlie hill <charliehill at embarqmail.com>
> >>To: Antique tractor email discussion group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com
> >
> >>Sent: Friday, 15 November 2013
>  12:43 PM
> >>Subject: Re: [AT] OT: Rosebuds! The oxi-acetylene  kind...
> >>
> >>
> >>Tom I don't think you have to get them that hot in terms of max temp.
> >>You just have to get enough heat into the mass of metal to make the metal
> >>expand and break the joint loose.  When you have a big mass of metal it
> >>takes
> >>a lot of BTU's.
> >>
> >>Charlie
> >>
> >>-----Original Message-----
> >>From: Tom
> >>Sent: Thursday, November 14, 2013 6:27 PM
> >>To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> >>Subject: Re: [AT] OT: Rosebuds! The oxi-acetylene kind...
> >>
> >>One would have to wonder how hard the gears & shafts were after that
> >>experience!
> >>
> >>Tom
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>>________________________________
> >>> From: Mike <meulenms at gmx.com>
> >>>To: Antique tractor email discussion group <
> at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> >>>Sent: Friday, 15 November 2013 12:05 PM
> >>>Subject: Re: [AT] OT: Rosebuds! The oxi-acetylene  kind...
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>Interesting that you would bring that up Charlie, I was watching RFD-TV
> >>>the other night and they were interviewing a guy
>  that had restored Power
> >>>Horse tractors.. Parts are apparently very hard to get for those
> >>>tractors, you either need to make them or have a parts tractor. Anyway,
> >>>he said when he got it the transmission gears were seized up, so he
> >>>filled the transmission with charcoal briquets and let it burn, same
> >>>type of idea. Those are neat little tractors by the way, made to be
> >>>controlled just like a horse using reins to control the tractor via two
> >>>levers.
> >>>Mike M
> >>>
> >>>On 11/14/2013 7:22 AM, charlie hill wrote:
> >>>> Dave if the part is such that you can do it without messing something
> >>>> else
> >>>> up
> >>>> you might find you have better
>  success, and cheaper, by just building a
> >>>> big
> >>>> fire and throwing the part in the bed of coals for a while.
> >>>>
> >>>> Charlie
> >>>>
> >>>> -----Original Message-----
> >>>> From: Dave Johnson
> >>>> Sent: Thursday, November 14, 2013 12:31 AM
> >>>> To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
> >>>> Subject: [AT] OT: Rosebuds! The oxi-acetylene kind.....
> >>>>
> >>>> I'm pretty ok with cutting & brazing, but have never used a rosebud to
> >>>> heat
> >>>> something, and my experience today has me scratching my head.
> >>>> The project at hand is freeing up a cast iron wheel hub, stuck on a
> >>>> keyed
> >>>> 1"
> >>>> shaft. This is on an old Gilson / MW garden tractor transmission....
> the
> >>>> idea is to liberate a set of 4 of these hubs to make dual adapters for
> >>>> use
> >>>> on another tractor with a FEL.
> >>>>
> >>>> I have soaked it for quite some time and have a puller tensioned on
> it,
> >>>> but
> >>>> it's not moving.... so now it's time for a little heat.
> >>>>
> >>>> I bought a new victor 8-MFA rosebud and lit it off as I would the
> torch,
> >>>> but
> >>>> when I try to get a blue flame, it flames out with a pop!
> >>>>
> >>>> What's going on here? Do I not want a hot blue flame, or do I simply
> >>>> need
> >>>> to
> >>>> feed a lot more of both gases to the torch? Or??  Any insight into
> these
> >>>> things would be appreciated!
> >>>>
> >>>>     btw, I'm on digest, so it'll take a day for me to respond (:<((
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> Dave in Gilroy, CA
> >>>> webguydave at yahoo.com
> >>>> _______________________________________________
> >>>
> >>>
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