[AT] Ford 4000 Quitting Afer Running a While

Charlie V 1cdevill at gmail.com
Sun Jul 14 15:06:18 PDT 2013


I never tried that, Dave, but I like the concept.  Change the oil and spark
plugs while the engine is out......

Charlie V.


On Sun, Jul 14, 2013 at 3:32 PM, Dave Rotigel <rotigel at me.com> wrote:

> I often considered taking the engine out of the car, Charlie!
>         Dave
>
> On Jul 14, 2013, at 1:01 PM, Charlie V wrote:
>
> > The easiest way to work on that dist., Dave, was to take it off the
> > engine.  I knew there was a reason why Ford went to the top distributor
> in
> > 1949 with the 8BA block, but I did not know you were that reason.   LOL
> >
> > Charlie V.
> >
> >
> > On Sun, Jul 14, 2013 at 11:40 AM, Dave Rotigel <rotigel at me.com> wrote:
> >
> >> Al,
> >>        It would take about the same time to replace the plugs, wires,
> >> points, condenser, rotor and cap as it will for your AK to cool down
> after
> >> several hours of shooting. I'd be willing to bet none of this has been
> done
> >> for at least several years. The total cost should not be more than the
> 150
> >> rounds you just put through the rifle!
> >>        Dave
> >> PS, Many of us don'r remember how fast points, plugs, etc. wear out on
> >> these older units. I'm still shocked each spring when I "tune up" my
> 1953
> >> MH Pacer! Points, cap and rotor are all burned! When I was a kid you
> needed
> >> to tune up your car every 8-10,000 miles--damn the 1948 Ford V-8
> >> distributor was FUN to work on!
> >>
> >>
> >> On Jul 14, 2013, at 9:21 AM, Richard Fink Sr wrote:
> >>
> >>> Al i would bet on coil or resistor first. Then have the points and
> >> condenser
> >>> with me and tools to change next time i ran it.
> >>> R Fink
> >>> PA
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> ----- Original Message -----
> >>> From: "Alan Nadeau" <ajnadeau1 at myfairpoint.net>
> >>> To: "ATIS" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> >>> Sent: Saturday, July 13, 2013 2:39 PM
> >>> Subject: [AT] Ford 4000 Quitting Afer Running a While
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>> The shooting club I belong to has a Ford 4000 which is having
> "issues".
> >>>> I'm not sure where to start trying to narrow it down.  This is the
> newer
> >>>> version with the 3 cyl. gas engine, not the early one which looks
> like a
> >>>> beefed up N Series.  We use it, with a 6 foot bushhog, to keep the
> >>>> weed/brush growth down on several acres of old pasture land around the
> >>>> club grounds.  I get along with it as it is the right age, even if it
> is
> >>>> an off brand(Ford was never real popular around here).  Nobody else
> >> really
> >>>> cares to operate it as it is a bit of a clubfoot and is not a shiny
> >>>> compact tractor.
> >>>>
> >>>> I starts fine and runs good for the first 1-2 hours.  Then it starts
> to
> >>>> stumble and over a few minutes gets worse until it dies completely.
> >>>> Sometimes it will restart immediately and run (barely) for a few
> >> seconds,
> >>>> at other times it won't restart without sitting 30-45 minutes.  After
> >> that
> >>>> rest period it will again run normally but for a shorter time,
> >> continuing
> >>>> that sequence until It won't run at all until completely cooled down.
> >>>>
> >>>> When it starts stumbling I can usually notice the difference in engine
> >>>> note.  If I catch it in time I find I can take the load off it, close
> >> the
> >>>> throttle to barely above idle and, by playing with the choke, manage
> to
> >>>> limp it back to the barn.
> >>>>
> >>>> It doesn't backfire when it acts up, if it was going lean I would
> expect
> >>>> it to belch and bellow.  If the ignition was cutting out completely,
> >> then
> >>>> kicking back in I would also expect a horrendous backfire from
> unburned
> >>>> fuel filling the exhaust and then getting lit off.
> >>>>
> >>>> Since I am always alone when I'm working it I don't have anyone around
> >> to
> >>>> help in trying to troubleshoot the thing.  Unless I am constantly
> >> playing
> >>>> with the choke it dies, there is no pulling the choke partway and
> having
> >>>> it continue to run.
> >>>>
> >>>> One thing that may be relevant or not is that this thing has the
> >>>> absolutely harsh exhaust fumes I have ever been exposed to.  Terrible
> >> eye
> >>>> irritating stuff.  I added some to the stack so it is quite a bit
> higher
> >>>> than my head and I'm still coming home with my eyes so irritated that
> I
> >>>> often have to pull my eyelids part manually when awakening the morning
> >>>> after a hogging session.
> >>>>
> >>>> Anyone have any ideas?  If you want more information ask any questions
> >> and
> >>>> I'll answer them as fully as I can.
> >>>>
> >>>> As for taking it to a shop, it is really hard now to find anyone who
> >> knows
> >>>> diddly about carburetors and spark ignition.  Because it only acts up
> >>>> after being worked for a while I'm not sure how viable it would be to
> >> get
> >>>> it into a shop.  Now that I think about it I may well let it run at
> high
> >>>> idle and see if it craps out without a load.  If it does that would
> make
> >>>> getting it to a shop a bit more practical.
> >>>>
> >>>> Al Nadeau
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> _______________________________________________
> >>>> AT mailing list
> >>>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >>>
> >>> _______________________________________________
> >>> AT mailing list
> >>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >>
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> AT mailing list
> >> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >>
> > _______________________________________________
> > AT mailing list
> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>



More information about the AT mailing list