[AT] Ford 4000 Quitting Afer Running a While

[Charlie V]

The easiest way to work on that dist., Dave, was to take it off the
engine.  I knew there was a reason why Ford went to the top distributor in
1949 with the 8BA block, but I did not know you were that reason.   LOL

Charlie V.


On Sun, Jul 14, 2013 at 11:40 AM, Dave Rotigel <rotigel at me.com> wrote:

> Al,
>         It would take about the same time to replace the plugs, wires,
> points, condenser, rotor and cap as it will for your AK to cool down after
> several hours of shooting. I'd be willing to bet none of this has been done
> for at least several years. The total cost should not be more than the 150
> rounds you just put through the rifle!
>         Dave
> PS, Many of us don'r remember how fast points, plugs, etc. wear out on
> these older units. I'm still shocked each spring when I "tune up" my 1953
> MH Pacer! Points, cap and rotor are all burned! When I was a kid you needed
> to tune up your car every 8-10,000 miles--damn the 1948 Ford V-8
> distributor was FUN to work on!
>
>
> On Jul 14, 2013, at 9:21 AM, Richard Fink Sr wrote:
>
> > Al i would bet on coil or resistor first. Then have the points and
> condenser
> > with me and tools to change next time i ran it.
> > R Fink
> > PA
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Alan Nadeau" <ajnadeau1 at myfairpoint.net>
> > To: "ATIS" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> > Sent: Saturday, July 13, 2013 2:39 PM
> > Subject: [AT] Ford 4000 Quitting Afer Running a While
> >
> >
> >> The shooting club I belong to has a Ford 4000 which is having "issues".
> >> I'm not sure where to start trying to narrow it down.  This is the newer
> >> version with the 3 cyl. gas engine, not the early one which looks like a
> >> beefed up N Series.  We use it, with a 6 foot bushhog, to keep the
> >> weed/brush growth down on several acres of old pasture land around the
> >> club grounds.  I get along with it as it is the right age, even if it is
> >> an off brand(Ford was never real popular around here).  Nobody else
> really
> >> cares to operate it as it is a bit of a clubfoot and is not a shiny
> >> compact tractor.
> >>
> >> I starts fine and runs good for the first 1-2 hours.  Then it starts to
> >> stumble and over a few minutes gets worse until it dies completely.
> >> Sometimes it will restart immediately and run (barely) for a few
> seconds,
> >> at other times it won't restart without sitting 30-45 minutes.  After
> that
> >> rest period it will again run normally but for a shorter time,
> continuing
> >> that sequence until It won't run at all until completely cooled down.
> >>
> >> When it starts stumbling I can usually notice the difference in engine
> >> note.  If I catch it in time I find I can take the load off it, close
> the
> >> throttle to barely above idle and, by playing with the choke, manage to
> >> limp it back to the barn.
> >>
> >> It doesn't backfire when it acts up, if it was going lean I would expect
> >> it to belch and bellow.  If the ignition was cutting out completely,
> then
> >> kicking back in I would also expect a horrendous backfire from unburned
> >> fuel filling the exhaust and then getting lit off.
> >>
> >> Since I am always alone when I'm working it I don't have anyone around
> to
> >> help in trying to troubleshoot the thing.  Unless I am constantly
> playing
> >> with the choke it dies, there is no pulling the choke partway and having
> >> it continue to run.
> >>
> >> One thing that may be relevant or not is that this thing has the
> >> absolutely harsh exhaust fumes I have ever been exposed to.  Terrible
> eye
> >> irritating stuff.  I added some to the stack so it is quite a bit higher
> >> than my head and I'm still coming home with my eyes so irritated that I
> >> often have to pull my eyelids part manually when awakening the morning
> >> after a hogging session.
> >>
> >> Anyone have any ideas?  If you want more information ask any questions
> and
> >> I'll answer them as fully as I can.
> >>
> >> As for taking it to a shop, it is really hard now to find anyone who
> knows
> >> diddly about carburetors and spark ignition.  Because it only acts up
> >> after being worked for a while I'm not sure how viable it would be to
> get
> >> it into a shop.  Now that I think about it I may well let it run at high
> >> idle and see if it craps out without a load.  If it does that would make
> >> getting it to a shop a bit more practical.
> >>
> >> Al Nadeau
> >>
> >>
> >>
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