[AT] Ford 4000 Quitting Afer Running a While

Sun Jul 14 09:14:45 PDT 2013

Dave,

I have been looking at some of this from the point that I was told that the 
ignition was gone through last year, before I got involved in running the 
tractor.  I was/am inclined to believe that as all the exposed parts are 
still black, shiny in the case of the cap, and not the least weathered.   I 
had no reason to doubt that but, now that I think of it, I was also told the 
Kubota Z-turn mower we have was also supposed to have been fully serviced 
last spring as well.  When I serviced it this spring I found "next service 
due-400 hrs"  magic markered under the cowl.  At that point the hours were 
515 +/-.   I think you're right, I may as well do a complete service on the 
ignition system and eliminate that possibility.

BTW,  I don't have an AK, not even and AR.  I wanted to pick up an AR but 
the prices have gone way beyond what I can, or would, pay.   Those things 
are the preferred toys of the spray & pray crowd.   My own tastes run to 
handguns (45 ACP because having to shoot twice is just silly) or bolt 
rifles.

Al
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dave Rotigel" <rotigel at me.com>
To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 14, 2013 11:40 AM
Subject: Re: [AT] Ford 4000 Quitting Afer Running a While

> Al,
> It would take about the same time to replace the plugs, wires, points, 
> condenser, rotor and cap as it will for your AK to cool down after several 
> hours of shooting. I'd be willing to bet none of this has been done for at 
> least several years. The total cost should not be more than the 150 rounds 
> you just put through the rifle!
> Dave
> PS, Many of us don'r remember how fast points, plugs, etc. wear out on 
> these older units. I'm still shocked each spring when I "tune up" my 1953 
> MH Pacer! Points, cap and rotor are all burned! When I was a kid you 
> needed to tune up your car every 8-10,000 miles--damn the 1948 Ford V-8 
> distributor was FUN to work on!
>
>
> On Jul 14, 2013, at 9:21 AM, Richard Fink Sr wrote:
>
>> Al i would bet on coil or resistor first. Then have the points and 
>> condenser
>> with me and tools to change next time i ran it.
>> R Fink
>> PA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>> From: "Alan Nadeau" <ajnadeau1 at myfairpoint.net>
>> To: "ATIS" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>> Sent: Saturday, July 13, 2013 2:39 PM
>> Subject: [AT] Ford 4000 Quitting Afer Running a While
>>
>>
>>> The shooting club I belong to has a Ford 4000 which is having "issues".
>>> I'm not sure where to start trying to narrow it down.  This is the newer
>>> version with the 3 cyl. gas engine, not the early one which looks like a
>>> beefed up N Series.  We use it, with a 6 foot bushhog, to keep the
>>> weed/brush growth down on several acres of old pasture land around the
>>> club grounds.  I get along with it as it is the right age, even if it is
>>> an off brand(Ford was never real popular around here).  Nobody else 
>>> really
>>> cares to operate it as it is a bit of a clubfoot and is not a shiny
>>> compact tractor.
>>>
>>> I starts fine and runs good for the first 1-2 hours.  Then it starts to
>>> stumble and over a few minutes gets worse until it dies completely.
>>> Sometimes it will restart immediately and run (barely) for a few 
>>> seconds,
>>> at other times it won't restart without sitting 30-45 minutes.  After 
>>> that
>>> rest period it will again run normally but for a shorter time, 
>>> continuing
>>> that sequence until It won't run at all until completely cooled down.
>>>
>>> When it starts stumbling I can usually notice the difference in engine
>>> note.  If I catch it in time I find I can take the load off it, close 
>>> the
>>> throttle to barely above idle and, by playing with the choke, manage to
>>> limp it back to the barn.
>>>
>>> It doesn't backfire when it acts up, if it was going lean I would expect
>>> it to belch and bellow.  If the ignition was cutting out completely, 
>>> then
>>> kicking back in I would also expect a horrendous backfire from unburned
>>> fuel filling the exhaust and then getting lit off.
>>>
>>> Since I am always alone when I'm working it I don't have anyone around 
>>> to
>>> help in trying to troubleshoot the thing.  Unless I am constantly 
>>> playing
>>> with the choke it dies, there is no pulling the choke partway and having
>>> it continue to run.
>>>
>>> One thing that may be relevant or not is that this thing has the
>>> absolutely harsh exhaust fumes I have ever been exposed to.  Terrible 
>>> eye
>>> irritating stuff.  I added some to the stack so it is quite a bit higher
>>> than my head and I'm still coming home with my eyes so irritated that I
>>> often have to pull my eyelids part manually when awakening the morning
>>> after a hogging session.
>>>
>>> Anyone have any ideas?  If you want more information ask any questions 
>>> and
>>> I'll answer them as fully as I can.
>>>
>>> As for taking it to a shop, it is really hard now to find anyone who 
>>> knows
>>> diddly about carburetors and spark ignition.  Because it only acts up
>>> after being worked for a while I'm not sure how viable it would be to 
>>> get
>>> it into a shop.  Now that I think about it I may well let it run at high
>>> idle and see if it craps out without a load.  If it does that would make
>>> getting it to a shop a bit more practical.
>>>
>>> Al Nadeau
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> AT mailing list
>>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> AT mailing list
>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> 