[AT] County/City Water Connection: What size meter to use?

charlie hill charliehill at embarqmail.com
Thu Jan 3 05:17:14 PST 2013 

Guys, the ONLY way a rock is going to get in Al's trench is if he goes to 
the rock quarry and buys one and puts it there himself.
The only rock in this part of coastal NC is limestone marl that is generally 
under about 20+ feet of overburden.  There are a few
outcroppings but very few and most of them are somewhere along a creek or 
stream bank where there is a high bank (high meaning about 10 to 20 feet) on 
one side and a swamp on the other side.  Supposedly those creek beds are 
caused by fault lines and therefore the change in elevation.
I don't know exactly where Al's new house site is but the elevation in 
Richlands, NC is about 60 feet above sea level and around here the little 
towns are built on the high spots.

Ok,  I didn't mean to give the list members a geology lesson but rock is not 
likely to be his big concern.

Charlie

-----Original Message----- 
From: Gene Waugh
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2013 7:40 AM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: Re: [AT] County/City Water Connection: What size meter to use?

Back where I worked, many house supply lines had been installed with 125 - 
150 psi rated black flexible poly pipe.  I saw (and repaired) probably 
hundreds of leaks caused by a rock bearing against the pipe, setting up 
stresses which, through the years, would cause a leak.  I usually used 200 
psi rated poly pipe; hard to work with, but I never went back for a repair.

I do believe that the root could grow into a joint---have not seen this on a 
water line, but many, many on sewer lines.  Knowing how tenacious the Osage 
Orange/Bois D'Arc is, I believe it even more!


Gene
Gene Waugh
Elgin, Illinois USA


On Jan 3, 2013, at 6:17 AM, Cecil R Bearden wrote:

> The root had actually grown around the pipe and then as it expanded it
> squeezed the pipe and since it was at a joint it started leaking.   I
> would not bet that that tree could not tell that water was in a pipe.
> They are also known as Osage Orange...    The tree will grow in a fence
> row and a 30 yr old tree will only be 3 to 4 inches in diameter.   The
> wood is very fine grained and when dry it is like a rock.  As I remember
> the staircase in the chapel in Santa Fe has Osage Orange as the small
> spindles that hold the staircase together.  Here it is known as Bois
> D'Arc a french name for wood of Bows.  The Indians used it to make
> Bows.  I know of a Bowmaker here who uses it for some very expensive and
> fine looking bows.     I have dug up one of the trees and pulled a
> feeder root nearly 200 ft.  I guess that is the reason it can grow in
> this dry prairie.
> Cecil in OKla
>
>
> On 1/2/2013 8:55 PM, Dave Rotigel wrote:
>> Doubtful that the root caused the leak. More likely that the leak caused 
>> the root!
>> Dave
>>
>> On Jan 2, 2013, at 8:59 PM, Cecil R Bearden wrote:
>>>   BTW
>>> the leak was from a BoisD'Arc tree root growing into the pipe at a 
>>> joint.
>>>
>>> Cecil in OKla
>>>
>>> On 1/2/2013 7:42 PM, Alan Nadeau wrote:
>>>> It has been a while since I ran any water lines.  In your case I would 
>>>> go
>>>> with 1" pipe but a 3/4" meter, the 1" will maintain flow better than 
>>>> the
>>>> 3/4" will over any distance.  Back when I was involved in such work it 
>>>> was
>>>> pretty common for chintzy builders to run the cheapest pipe they could 
>>>> buy.
>>>> At that time I think it was rated for 80 PSI.  I had the pleasure of 
>>>> working
>>>> the trench when my employer replaced many of those.  The pipe he used 
>>>> then
>>>> (he was NOT a chintzy builder) was something like 120 or 160 PSI rated. 
>>>> The
>>>> 80# junk would puncture if a stone got anywhere near it.  In our stony 
>>>> (VT)
>>>> soil the only way it would last was if it was bedded in sand.  Nobody 
>>>> did
>>>> that as it was expensive so the weakest possible pipe got direct buried 
>>>> and
>>>> as the fill settled any stones in there would crimp/kink the pipe and 
>>>> in 6-7
>>>> years it would be leaking.  I'm not even sure the 80# is even made now 
>>>> but
>>>> if it is it should be avoided unless you are in really nice sand.  Go 
>>>> with
>>>> the heaviest rated pipe you can get.  It will require a little heat to 
>>>> get
>>>> fittings into it and it is wise to use marine grade hose clamps.  The
>>>> automotive ones have a carbon steel screw on a stainless band.  When 
>>>> the
>>>> screw disintegrates the clamping force is lost.  The marine ones are
>>>> completely stainless steel and while more costly they add only a 
>>>> fraction to
>>>> the cost of the whole project.
>>>>
>>>> Even with the heavy pipe, if you're working with a dug trench it is 
>>>> wise to
>>>> try to keep clean fill over the pipe for a couple inches and not drop 
>>>> any
>>>> big rocks down near the bottom if you can avoid it.
>>>>
>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>> From: "Al Jones" <farmallsupera at earthlink.net>
>>>> To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" 
>>>> <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>>>> Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2013 6:06 PM
>>>> Subject: [AT] County/City Water Connection: What size meter to use?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> WARNING: OFF TOPIC!
>>>>>
>>>>> My wife and I are building a house, and it’s time to put the water 
>>>>> meter
>>>>> down out at the highway.  This is my first experience with “county 
>>>>> water,”
>>>>> as I have always lived in a house on its own well.  I am hoping that 
>>>>> the
>>>>> convenience of not maintaining a pump will be worth it in  the long 
>>>>> run.
>>>>> Plus, we will be living in the town ETJ, and I expect “one of these 
>>>>> days”
>>>>> they will run a municipal sewer line and we’ll have to connect anyway.
>>>>>
>>>>> I have a choice of a meter with a 3/4" hookup, pretty much the 
>>>>> standard
>>>>> deal around here, or a 1” hookup.  The 1” meter is $170 more than the 
>>>>> 3/4"
>>>>> meter, but the highway robbery, uh, I mean “impact fee” is $1600 more 
>>>>> for
>>>>> the 1” meter.  Our house is between 800 and 900 feet from the road and
>>>>> where the meter will be.  Should I bite the bullet and go for the 1”
>>>>> connection or will a 3/4" line give acceptable pressure and flow?  My
>>>>> contractor suggests the 1” meter, and I have had others advise either 
>>>>> one
>>>>> will work.  One even suggested just installing the 3/4" meter but run 
>>>>> a 1"
>>>>> pipe to the house.
>>>>>
>>>>> We won't be doing anything fancy, just water needs for a 3 bedroom, 
>>>>> 2.5
>>>>> bath house.  No lawn irrigation other than filling up a watering can 
>>>>> when
>>>>> I plant marigolds or something.
>>>>>
>>>>> When the meter goes in, I intend to run the line to the house myself. 
>>>>> If
>>>>> so, I will be using the 424 IH with a middlebuster to dig the trench 
>>>>> (if
>>>>> it will go deep enough) and the Super A with IH Fast Hitch blade to
>>>>> backfill.....
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> thanks,
>>>>> Al
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> _______________________________________________
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>>>>>
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